2.0TDI BKD glowplugs

[zippyijk]

Lads just wondering has anyone here replaced their glowplugs on a 2.0TDI BKD engine before?
From the diagrams on ETKA it appears the glowplugs are beneath the cylinder head on the BKD engine?? That seem right?
I've seen other drawings for the 2.0TDI that has them outside the head facing the front but I think this is no the BKD?

Just wondering as I had glowplug 3 showing up in a scan with VCDS and I the car is slow to start if the engine has been on recently (i.e. its warm). Now glowplug 1 is also showing up on the scan. I don't think its the loom as that'd show up all 4 as a problem.
BTW no warning lights on dash.

If they're under the cylinder head, how easy/hard are they to change? Anyone here done it?

 

[tdi-man]

IVE DONE MINE YOU HAVE TO TAKE ROCKER COVER OF AND THERE JUST UNDER THAT DO IT WHEN ENGINES WARM AS THEY UNDO EASYER

 

[APU]

Hi Zippyijk

I've done mine not long ago

Make sure that your new plugs are 4.4v i went with Beru from ECP worked out £12 per plug

its not hard at all but time consuming and a bit tight

Cylinder head cover has to come off

 

[audio]

Many thanks for the pic that says a thousand words. I am also trying to replace glow plugs on my 2005 audi 2.0tdi sportsback. Can you please explain a bit about the gasket if it has to be redone/replace too? what does it mean by 'bolt behind' in the pic? is there one more bolt which needs to be unbolted??? sorry for my novice questions, just a novice by careful approach to get the DIY job done & save some quids!!!

 

[c_w]

Glowplugs would generally show up as poor cold start. If it's poor warm starting I would say it's something else.

I have got a spare set in my garage when my 170 was slow cold starting and it didn't make any difference when I fitted some new ones (some 170s are like that). I also read that they generally never fail.

 

[APU]

Hi

Gasket is reusable just check and make sure there is no damage and oil leaks, yes the bolt is facing the rear. I agree that these glow plugs hardly ever fail but they do lose efficiency and when i took mine off one had slight damage on the tip so I replaced all of them.

C_W can you please elaborate on your comment i.e poor start when vehicle is warm? What should i look out for?

Thanks

 

[APU]

Forgot to say that I've checked the main coolant temp sensor with VAG and looks fine to me did 25 min run from cold to hot.

 

[audio]

Thanks APU for the guidelines, I have just finished replacing the glow plugs successfully, my first ever project! yippy!!!. Moment of truth will be tmorw when i'll start the car in the morning!
Taking off the cam cover is quite a tough job with a little pipe lying on top from rear side popping out of a big pipe and those three silver pipes in the front almost on the bolts (what are those by the way?). quite a bit of a gentle pulling n pushing job it was. at one point i just felt like undoing those pipes which could've made the job super silky but ofcourse i dint want to get into another issue since i got no clue wat are those for. So i relied on elbow grease! oh by the way, the gasket was just as good as new so problems with that altough i had the replacement part and the sealant for backup. Taken some pics but don't know how to upload here.

I have a few more jobs to be done, should i start a new threads? may be that helps others too, to easily search.

Thank u all guys!

 

[paultaylor]

my 07 170 has been getting progressively worse on cold starts lately, the underground car park where it's parked has been baltic lately, don't know if that's a factor, when it does start there is a judder which got me worrying about the flywheel but there is no judder in 6th gear at 50mph on the motorway etc.

it was serviced a month ago(long life) and it's got 38k miles on ity now

Warm or 90 degree starts are fine

Any thoughts? no fault codes on scan

 

[c_w]

Both my 170s (PDs) show signs of poor cold starts as the weather gets sub 4 degress - like the battery is poor, but it's not that as I've jumped a stone cold car as a test using another car even after letting it charge for a while the starting is the same. My first 170 would sometimes catch and die or require you to hold the starter a bit longer. The 140 should start fine any temp though.

 

[APU]

Thanks Audio glad to help

Elsa tells you to remove the big plastic pipe(3 bolts to undo) but as i discovered you dont need to as 2 other bolts are obscure and once you've removed one bolt which is facing rear (on my pic) you can push the large plastic pipe gently and that’s enough space to remove the cover

I think 170 engine has different type plugs as my old passat 06 plate BKP engine had different plugs which were 7v and not 4.4v on BKD also has duel filament inside for under 2sec heat time.


Mine doesn’t start when warm but if I remove the temp sensor it fires up as it should i've got another sensor so will test it at the weekend. i don’t think the sensor is faulty as i did some tests and it shows the correct temp but for 13 pounds (Beru) i think its ok to try. Also I’ve read that BKD engine with AC has two identical tem sensors.

I will try at the weekend and let you all know
have a good one lads
APU

 

[APU]

Well i did some digging and there are 2 temp. sensors I’m sure they are both the same

8 -	Coolant temperature sender -G62-

with coolant temperature gauge sensor -G2-

25 -	Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet -G83-

 

[audio]

Cheers APU, checked starting cold engine now, it perfect now!!! thanks
i missunderstood that 'behind bolt' part.. but i'll keep that in mind !!! do chip in your inputs on my new threads, thanks!

 

[zippyijk]

Well i did some digging and there are 2 temp. sensors I’m sure they are both the same

8 -	Coolant temperature sender -G62-

with coolant temperature gauge sensor -G2-

25 -	Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet -G83-

The bottom one there, 25, is part number 06A 919 501 A (2 pin)
The top one, 8, is part number 06A 919 501 A (2 pin)
Same part alright

Audio, a few questions on the removal.....
I just had my cylinder head replaced recently so the gaskets are all new so won't need a new gasket.
Was it just a case of removing the 11 bolts from the cover?
What was the "bolt behind" removed for?
Did you need to use any sealant when you put the cover back on?
What did you torque the bolts to when you put them back?
If I'm doing it I'll be interested to see the connection going to each of the glowplugs as said earlier it just had its cylinder head replaced and the dtc's have only been popping up in VCDS since then.
I'll have the new glowplugs on hand though in case it need them.

APU, you were saying about checking the coolant sensors in VCDS. Do you remember what channel you logged?
Also what is considered as normal running conditions?

The hot start issue is only just an annoyance really. I would still like to get it right though.

 

[audio]

I 1st remove the belt cover on the left (3 clips) and then went on unbolting the cam cover. yes thats it.
The bolt behind is behind is to loosen the pipe on top so that u could easily maneuver the cam cover coz its quite tight. I pushed n pulled a little instead... but unbolting that is more advisable.
You can see the connections to the glow plugs right where APU has pointed in the diagram (scroll up to view). i torqued up the glow plugs and the cam bolts without toque racthet with around the same strength they were tightened earlier. I think torque for glow plugs is 15Nm and i dont know for the cam cover. APU, enlighten plzz!
No I did not use the sealant coz the seal was just nice however i cleaned the meeting surfaces nicely before putting the cover back.

 

[APU]

Sorry guys for not posting i've been away due to sudden family bereavement

I still no further on my car so will try to look over this weekend or next week

I didn’t use toque wrench but below is the actual settings for glow plus and head cover

- Install glow plugs and tighten to 10 Nm.

–	Tighten the screws of the cylinder head cover in the order -1...11- by hand, then to 10 Nm.

 

[Strollers1]

Hi Guys,

I have been previously referencing this site and thread and want to say a massive thanks for all the information provided.

I have just changed all 4 glow plugs on my BKD 2.0 A3. I have never attempted anything like this before and was very please I was able to achieve this with only the information provided on this page.

I originally had an issue with the airbag warning light after (stupidly) disconnecting the passenger airbag key override's connector and Turing the ignition on to enable the fans to blow out the dead leaves left over once the cabin filter had been removed. Anyway...I purchased a CAN bus stand alone reader to reset this code as I knew what caused the problem in the first place (me) and that everything would be fine with a simple reset (This worked as expected). Whilst in diagnostics, I checked the remaining car system codes and found 3 of the 4 glow plugs were showing an electrical fault. The engine, when cold on tick over appeared to be misfiring at random times causing the engine to judder slightly. Car was running fine and once warm no issues. I decided to tackle the problem myself to both save a few quid and because I like a small challenge. I followed the instructions as per the thread here and was able to successfully remove all components to gain access to the glow plugs. I found the socket size I had was too large to lower into position (Frustrating!!) I did notice the 2nd from the left plug connector was removed from the glow plug all together so reinstated that before replacing everything in order to use the car again to visit the tool shop to get the correct part. This had no impact on fault codes. I got an 8mm small socket which did the job for me. on the 2nd attempt at removing all over again! I did use a small amount of penetration oil to assist in removal of the old plugs (I have read many horror stories about snapping plugs in the engine and was very worried this would happen to me). I also ran the engine before working to full temp to maximise chance of successful removal.

Anyway, plugs replaced, car is not starting like a dream during cold startups and fault codes have gone

Having gone through this, I now feel confident to take on other projects. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Special thanks to APU for the photo and image of parts...couldn't have done this without you

Sorry guys for not posting i've been away due to sudden family bereavement

I still no further on my car so will try to look over this weekend or next week

I didn’t use toque wrench but below is the actual settings for glow plus and head cover

- Install glow plugs and tighten to 10 Nm.

–	Tighten the screws of the cylinder head cover in the order -1...11- by hand, then to 10 Nm.

 

[SAiLO]

Hi Guys,

I have been previously referencing this site and thread and want to say a massive thanks for all the information provided.

I have just changed all 4 glow plugs on my BKD 2.0 A3. I have never attempted anything like this before and was very please I was able to achieve this with only the information provided on this page.

I originally had an issue with the airbag warning light after (stupidly) disconnecting the passenger airbag key override's connector and Turing the ignition on to enable the fans to blow out the dead leaves left over once the cabin filter had been removed. Anyway...I purchased a CAN bus stand alone reader to reset this code as I knew what caused the problem in the first place (me) and that everything would be fine with a simple reset (This worked as expected). Whilst in diagnostics, I checked the remaining car system codes and found 3 of the 4 glow plugs were showing an electrical fault. The engine, when cold on tick over appeared to be misfiring at random times causing the engine to judder slightly. Car was running fine and once warm no issues. I decided to tackle the problem myself to both save a few quid and because I like a small challenge. I followed the instructions as per the thread here and was able to successfully remove all components to gain access to the glow plugs. I found the socket size I had was too large to lower into position (Frustrating!!) I did notice the 2nd from the left plug connector was removed from the glow plug all together so reinstated that before replacing everything in order to use the car again to visit the tool shop to get the correct part. This had no impact on fault codes. I got an 8mm small socket which did the job for me. on the 2nd attempt at removing all over again! I did use a small amount of penetration oil to assist in removal of the old plugs (I have read many horror stories about snapping plugs in the engine and was very worried this would happen to me). I also ran the engine before working to full temp to maximise chance of successful removal.

Anyway, plugs replaced, car is not starting like a dream during cold startups and fault codes have gone

Having gone through this, I now feel confident to take on other projects. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Special thanks to APU for the photo and image of parts...couldn't have done this without you

Thanks for that description.
Did you also replace the wiring loom?

 

[Strollers1]

Thanks for that description.
Did you also replace the wiring loom?

I didn't replace the wiring loom...I took a multi meter, set to voltage and tested from the disconnected glow plug connector against the grounding of the engine. With the ignition turned off, I was getting approx. 1v dc reading. I know this is not very technical and possibly not how to correctly test but I figured getting a constant reading across all 4 plugs of 1 v to me is a strong indication there is a good connection for the wiring loom. Someone else on here may be able to better and correctly suggest the method of measuring the loom? (As I had the top of the engine cover off, I didn't want to put the key anywhere near the ignition as I didn't want to try and start it up!)

 

[SAiLO]

I didn't replace the wiring loom...I took a multi meter, set to voltage and tested from the disconnected glow plug connector against the grounding of the engine. With the ignition turned off, I was getting approx. 1v dc reading. I know this is not very technical and possibly not how to correctly test but I figured getting a constant reading across all 4 plugs of 1 v to me is a strong indication there is a good connection for the wiring loom. Someone else on here may be able to better and correctly suggest the method of measuring the loom? (As I had the top of the engine cover off, I didn't want to put the key anywhere near the ignition as I didn't want to try and start it up!)

I have mentioned the injector wiring loom as it is known to be causing engine judder on idle - original part has been replaced by Audi with a revised version.

 

[Strollers1]

I have mentioned the injector wiring loom as it is known to be causing engine judder on idle - original part has been replaced by Audi with a revised version.

I was not aware of that, thankyou for raising it. Was this done as a warranty call back? What years did this include? Mine is a 2005 so fairly old now...I think the judder has greatly improved from renewing the glow plugs though, will try again listening when the car is cold on idle.