Help needed please slight problem a3 1.8t

[xxxxSMITHYxxxx]

Morning all,

I have got a slight problem with my a3,

When the car is at idle every so oftern it seems to almost giv like a little jump/misfire also when i am driving and giv it the boot it seems to be holding back/misfireing agin Also useing a load more fuel all the time.

Have replaced the plugs seemed to help a little but it is still happening, Would this be a coil pack problem or the ignition amplifyer or at a long shot could it be a blocked fuel filter

 

[kwistof]

Sounds like the symptons of a tired MAF -

Unplug it and see how it runs on idle then

 

[fanta]

Also make sure you've got the air con off. I made a schoolboy error thinking there was something wrong when using the demisting blower

 

[xxxxSMITHYxxxx]

Also make sure you've got the air con off. I made a schoolboy error thinking there was something wrong when using the demisting blower

Air con defo not on

 

[xxxxSMITHYxxxx]

Anyone else got any idears

 

[scottydog1976]

I agree with kwistof start with the the maf, have you checked for codes?

 

[16Klappe]

Anyone else got any idears

http://m.dictionary.com

 

[V.A.G.erbond]

Definitely MAF had this prob on my Cupra (same engine) bigger turbo. Codes should show it up but you should check or clean ur MAF first before replacing. Brake cleaner works to remove deposits ( aerosol) work a try before replacinf

 

[xxxxSMITHYxxxx]

What is the best way to get to the maf do I remove just the small bit connected to the cables or remove the hole plastic cone type unit c

 

[<tuffty/>]

Do the standard checks... scan for fault codes, visually checks for split pipes (normally under the inlet manifold) and if you can get a smoke test done...

This symptom is typically airleak related as it messes with the mixture... you haven't mentioned the car you have... saying its a 1.8t isn't enough... would appear you have a TQS from your previous posts so its a narrowband ECU with drive by wire throttle...

Unplugging the MAF and driving like that to see if the problem is still there should eliminate it as a possible candidate... I personally think its an airleak but if the MAF has not been changed to your knowledge its worthwhile bunging a new one on as a service item regardless...

Scan with VCDS and if you have access to a registered version check block 032 while the engine is idling... do not clear any fault codes prior though as the fuel trims will reset

<tuffty/>

 

[xxxxSMITHYxxxx]

Do the standard checks... scan for fault codes, visually checks for split pipes (normally under the inlet manifold) and if you can get a smoke test done...

This symptom is typically airleak related as it messes with the mixture... you haven't mentioned the car you have... saying its a 1.8t isn't enough... would appear you have a TQS from your previous posts so its a narrowband ECU with drive by wire throttle...

Unplugging the MAF and driving like that to see if the problem is still there should eliminate it as a possible candidate... I personally think its an airleak but if the MAF has not been changed to your knowledge its worthwhile bunging a new one on as a service item regardless...

Scan with VCDS and if you have access to a registered version check block 032 while the engine is idling... do not clear any fault codes prior though as the fuel trims will reset

<tuffty/>

ok will do the is for the info, could a low voltage battery be the cause of a fault like this?

 

[<tuffty/>]

ok will do the is for the info, could a low voltage battery be the cause of a fault like this?

No sure what you mean but if the alternator is not kicking out over 13 volts then running problems can happen... but rather than stabbing in the dark I suggest you start with the diagnostic process I suggested and work from facts

<tuffty/>

 

[James TQ]

money on it being a lambda sensor in the exhaust, i had the same problems, if the sensor is gone it cant get the exact reading so over/ under fuels