Hi all, I have had issues with my heater and traced it to the control panel, (it won't maintain a steady temp) my facia is pristine and most 2nd hand ones are a tad rough looking. Does anyone know if you can swop over the face plate? Bba reman will fix mine but at £125 odd quid it's a bit dear.
Heater control panel face swop?
- Thread starter Wobblybox
- Start date
Easy for a dope like me?? I don't have access to my car to look at it. Is it plug in type easy or soldering etc?
appreciate your help
appreciate your help
yeah really easy to swap and its just plug and play
although I think the unit will need coding to the car with vcds
although I think the unit will need coding to the car with vcds
the face swap is relatively straight forward a set of jewellers screwdrivers or smaller will help. There's a write up on here if you search the stickies, etc.
The unit will work without coding - be careful if you buy a B7 unit as they don't have a relay capability inside - so you need to wire up an external one. The advantage of b7 units are that they run down to 16' (later b6 units also run to 16' - it's the AA suffix on the part number). I just happen to have a b6 AA unit which I could let you have if you're interested (with or without faceplate)
The coding ensures the servo motors for the flaps are set correctly but as i said the unit will work and set temperature - it's an easy job with VCDS to set it to re-learn the VIN / adaptation / check motors.
If you have temp problems it may also be motor connected as they have intermittent faults and flaps shut or won't open and the unit then tries to cope. There is also a little fan (like a graphics card cooling fan) in the top of the CC unit (behind the slats in the middle) that plays up / vents clog and that throws the sensors. As this is in the front panel (the electrics are in two parts) you would need to swap this from one face plate to the other too.
hope that makes sense.
let me know if you're interested in the unit i have?
And
The unit will work without coding - be careful if you buy a B7 unit as they don't have a relay capability inside - so you need to wire up an external one. The advantage of b7 units are that they run down to 16' (later b6 units also run to 16' - it's the AA suffix on the part number). I just happen to have a b6 AA unit which I could let you have if you're interested (with or without faceplate)
The coding ensures the servo motors for the flaps are set correctly but as i said the unit will work and set temperature - it's an easy job with VCDS to set it to re-learn the VIN / adaptation / check motors.
If you have temp problems it may also be motor connected as they have intermittent faults and flaps shut or won't open and the unit then tries to cope. There is also a little fan (like a graphics card cooling fan) in the top of the CC unit (behind the slats in the middle) that plays up / vents clog and that throws the sensors. As this is in the front panel (the electrics are in two parts) you would need to swap this from one face plate to the other too.
hope that makes sense.
let me know if you're interested in the unit i have?
And
I thought thats what you had to do before they work? need to be adapted to the car.....I shouldn't have said coded really!
or will any plug in and work straight away
I've fitted 3 different ones. All worked in terms of controlling the temp and appeared to operate the motors / respond to output choices, but I couldn't guarantee what motors worked to what extent (and i've a couple of motors that are princesses anyhow!)
I tried the heater control unit from a B7 model and noticed the wiring difference, my cabin air temp won't stay at a steady warm temp. From a cold start this is what happens.... Heater set at 22c in a few minutes of driving I get warm air when the engine temp is indicating roughly 50c the heater starts blowing cooler air (this is intermittent but 80% of the time) put the heater to 24 and it'll blow warm for a while then cool down, increase to 26 same thing happens, I've had the heater at 28c and still blowing cool air, at this stage it'll only blow warm on HI. The other 20% of the time it'll maintain a steady flow of warm air.
On trying the B7 unit it maintained a steady temperature and 18c was a comfortable air temp and remained that way while I had the unit fitted. My car is an 04 model if that makes any difference?
Yes I am interested in your heater, I have found one in a breakers here in NI which I can try before I buy for £40, unsure if its rough or ok hence asking about faceplate swop. I'll probably go with this plan 1st as postage to NI can be expensive.
I had diagnostics carried out on my car with the vcds unit and vagcom none of which indicated any faults, the heater flaps were re-synced too.
Thank you for your very informative and detailed reply.
On trying the B7 unit it maintained a steady temperature and 18c was a comfortable air temp and remained that way while I had the unit fitted. My car is an 04 model if that makes any difference?
Yes I am interested in your heater, I have found one in a breakers here in NI which I can try before I buy for £40, unsure if its rough or ok hence asking about faceplate swop. I'll probably go with this plan 1st as postage to NI can be expensive.
I had diagnostics carried out on my car with the vcds unit and vagcom none of which indicated any faults, the heater flaps were re-synced too.
Thank you for your very informative and detailed reply.
is your car running at 90' when warm - should go a lot higher than 50' - if thermostat changed and new coolant do you know if heater is bled properly? (clutching at straws but before you shell ££)
I think if yours is an 04 then control should go down to 16'. To me 18' in Audi land is about 23 elsewhere so 16' units are best (do you know the part number on breaker unit).
I've pm'd you re the unit I have.
I think if yours is an 04 then control should go down to 16'. To me 18' in Audi land is about 23 elsewhere so 16' units are best (do you know the part number on breaker unit).
I've pm'd you re the unit I have.
Yes running at 90c (warms up a lot quicker from thermo replaced), mine goes down to 16 then lo, the unit I got goes to 18 then low, I'll get the part no when I get home. I got it for £30 and seems to have cured the problem all I need to do now is swop over the face (altho the one I got is quite good but mines perfect) I had a flap re-synch done a while ago using a handheld device but not a vag-com?? From fitting this other unit there's a distinct difference in air temp flow from the middle vents, the temp from the left is definitely warmer than the one on the right. Thinking it needs synced to the new control panel as was mentioned here.
all I need to do now is swop over the face (altho the one I got is quite good but mines perfect) I had a flap re-synch done a while ago using a handheld device but not a vag-com?? From fitting this other unit there's a distinct difference in air temp flow from the middle vents, the temp from the left is definitely warmer than the one on the right. Thinking it needs synced to the new control panel as was mentioned here.
