Broken glove box hinge !!

monz87

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Hi guys,

I know it's a common problem that the glove box hinges break due to a stiff damper behind.

Anyway, as I baught my car last Thursday, I wasn't aware of this, The symptom was bad though, once you open the latch, the lid would drop 2 cm the stay there. You would then have to pull it down with a bit of force. I did intend to look it up online but before I could do that, I have already broken the left hinge!!

Anyway, I know its not too difficult to remove for a DIY fix, just a few bolts. However, I have a few obstacles in there, a CD Changer, a cooled compartment and and an air bag switch.

Is there any way that I could open just the lid with the hinges and the damper without having to remove any of the other things in there? I don't want to take the whole thing out and have to disconnect wires etc, then have the airbag light come on and stuff like that. I just want to take the lid out and the hinges and the damper. Is this possible? What can I do?

2uzp06b.jpg


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TBH you need to push the pins out anyway if its like the 8P so you'd need access to the sides, best to find a vcds user in your area & remove glovebox, repair then ask them to remove the code.
 
So are you saying that I definetely need to take it all out or can i just take out the lid and damper on its own but with more difficulty of course?
 
IMHO if you need to push the hinge pin out, you'll need to remove the box afaik.
 
But would I need to disconnect the air bag switch?
 
You maybe able to angle the glovebox enough to get the hinge bolt out without unplugging it, but why cant you find someone with vcds anyway, so as to not be a ball breaker job.
 
I've written a repair guide for the hinge, it's in the DIY Guides Sticky in the B6 forum.

You 'might' be able to remove the pins with the glovebox in situ, BUT i think you'd be very lucky. The pins are grooved and they're pressed into the plastic moulding. I had a job to remove them with it out, I think you'd struggle lying upside down in the footwell. Have a look at my guide to see what I mean.

This was how it looked when I had butchered it, (note it tidied up quite well afterwards.)

Glovebox007.jpg
 
Yeap same as the 8P, IMHO remove the box & also unplug the loom or you could damage the wiring & damage the box further.
 
So if I unplug the airbag switch, when I reconnect the light will stay on right? But will it still work while the light is on and can it be turned off with the VCDS?
Do I have to unplug the cd changer and anything to do with that cooled section aswell?
 
Bump...

Ive done exactly the same thing, snapped in the same place...

I took the side panel off and its rediculously stiff, requires alot of pulling to move, stress on the hinge must have been snapping it over time and now its completely broken off.

Can anyone tell me if i need a new damper or can it be fixed and the hinge glued back together?
 
Bump...

Ive done exactly the same thing, snapped in the same place...

I took the side panel off and its rediculously stiff, requires alot of pulling to move, stress on the hinge must have been snapping it over time and now its completely broken off.

Can anyone tell me if i need a new damper or can it be fixed and the hinge glued back together?

If the hinge hasn't snapped and your damper is stiff then just remove the damper. If the hinge is snapped you can't just glue it back, it will just break again. You have to add something to it like a bolt or a thick nail. There's a lot. Of guides on the internet to fix it.
 
Bump...

Ive done exactly the same thing, snapped in the same place...

I took the side panel off and its rediculously stiff, requires alot of pulling to move, stress on the hinge must have been snapping it over time and now its completely broken off.

Can anyone tell me if i need a new damper or can it be fixed and the hinge glued back together?

Have you read Quattrojames' sticky post on the B6 section? If not, click here.
 
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You have to add something to it like a bolt or a thick nail.

Thats an awesome idea, thanks! i got some loctite super glue, its a pretty poor design with so many people having trouble... at least the right hand side is still attached i guess.
 
Depends which parts broken, if its the part thats snapped that connects to the brake element, this can be repaired, but not with loctite, you would have to glue the 2 parts back together with superglue, then use epoxy or 2 pack resin like topfix to bind round the break &up/down the arms as such to strengthen, then stick some grease inside the brake element to get it moving properly, this is the fix, done numerous 8P's without further issues.
 
Ive repaired the hinge onsite with a wire mesh to hold it together. lasted a few days. after reading a lot of your posts and terrified to take out the CD shuttle and airbag switch i pondered the best solution.
lets deal with the problem (damper). take it out, grease it & ***** a very small whole at the back. it will switch on the light still with much less resistance. patch up the hinge on site. you will not have the same issue again.

[h=1]“I choose a lazy person to do a hard job. Because a lazy person will find an easy way to do it.”[/h]
Hi guys,

I know it's a common problem that the glove box hinges break due to a stiff damper behind.

Anyway, as I baught my car last Thursday, I wasn't aware of this, The symptom was bad though, once you open the latch, the lid would drop 2 cm the stay there. You would then have to pull it down with a bit of force. I did intend to look it up online but before I could do that, I have already broken the left hinge!!

Anyway, I know its not too difficult to remove for a DIY fix, just a few bolts. However, I have a few obstacles in there, a CD Changer, a cooled compartment and and an air bag switch.

Is there any way that I could open just the lid with the hinges and the damper without having to remove any of the other things in there? I don't want to take the whole thing out and have to disconnect wires etc, then have the airbag light come on and stuff like that. I just want to take the lid out and the hinges and the damper. Is this possible? What can I do?

2uzp06b.jpg


2n1ukxv.jpg


207u9nm.jpg
 
Apparently you can avoid the dreaded airbag light if you put the switch in off position, turn key to one click before turn-over, remove keys then unplug the switch. The theory is as long as the car knows the switch is in the off position before its removed it won't throw a fit. I can't confirm as I have VCDS so just clean the code each time.

Hinge-work is definitely a glove-box out job if you want to really get the job done. Mine lacks any internal toys so it comes out easily. Not sure the procedure with autochanger, vents etc.

Many sellers on eBay offer shaped steel brackets that screw (self tapers) into the hinge part and lid. Along with some epoxy resin for good measure, it's a very sturdy fix and considerably stronger than just gluing the pieces back together.

As for the damper it's common to open it up and trim small amounts off the rubber o-ring to allow smoother action. Sadly the dimwit who tried to modify mine in the past completely ruined it so my damper offers next to no resistance at all. £28 near enough for a new damper.
 

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