Another satisfied R-Tech customer!!! :D A few niggles though... Advice please! :)

Benjiman46

Benjiman46

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Well guys I finally bit the bullet and booked myself in to R-Tech last week, I went down with low hopes and came back over-joyed!!!

The first run on the rollers showed the car made 220bhp, which I was impressed with to say it's only supposed to be 210bhp standard! I have the following engine mods on an APY;

-Badger5 TIP and Jetex cone filter
-Relentless 3" Downpipe and de-cat with 2.5" powerflow de-cat back
-(very slightly leaky) Forge 008 DV... In need of a service kit
-N249 bypass and SAI disconnected

After about 12 runs on the Dyno with Nick data logging, me watching nervously on and Ben making me loads of coffee... After 3 hours it made 265bhp and 275ftlb!!! To say I was impressed is an under-statement! :D

On the road, it's just evil! The torque surge is unbelievable and it's just so rapid but safe... So it begs the question, why didn't Audi just make it with this power 12 years ago?

Here's a few pics :)


IMG 3922IMG 3921IMG 3939IMG 3942


BEFORE YOU ALL GO!!! lol

I have a couple of problems I need to ask advice about!

Nick said I have a few problems...

1. My Forge 008 is leaking from the top cap... (on smoke testing the boost system that was one of the places it leaked slightly) Can you get hold of new screws (because the allen key part of the screw head has started to round off) and since I changed to the yellow spring ready for the re-map the top seal may be fubar too.

The following are pre-remap codes...

2. po116 g62 engine coolant temp sensor code - No idea what to do about this! Advice please :p

3. p1548 n75 - again no idea if this means it needs replacing or not, but Nick said it's "Lazy" causing a torque spike as you can see on the graph.

4. po107 mass air flow sensor - Nick said this will need replacing soon... It's not dead yet, but it's "dodgy" which I'm hoping is what's causing problem 5 and 6...

5. When I'm on the motorway, in say 5th or 6th gear, and I put my foot down. It will only boost to and hold 15psi, for about 5 or 6 seconds, then it will suddenly go up to 20 psi and the boost starts fluctuating (sounds like turbo flutter but on boost) Now I know it's not turbo lag, because why would it boost instantly to 15 psi, then take a further 5 or 6 seconds to reach 20psi... And then do that weird flutter thing.

6. Sometimes when setting off from junctions, take it steady in 1st and 2nd then put foot down in 3rd it will boost to about 22psi spike and then flutter like it does on the motorway before settling at about 18 psi.

Would the last 2 problems be associated with a lazy n75 and or faulty MAF?

Please note... In NO WAY am I blaming R-Tech for these problems, I understand re-maps bring underlying problems to the surface, I'm just trying to get some ideas before I bother Nick again because he is one busy man! :)

Cheers
Ben
 
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Hey, that's great. Well the n75 controls your boost so it sounds like it could be a issue for your problems, also a dodgy MAF will not give good air flor readings of consistent ones. Slap new ones on! Ben has just dropped me off at home while Nick looks over mine today - I only live round the corner.
 
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Ironically.. Things working to well!

Or the n75 not working properly..or actuator sticking..

the actuator might be sticking thus holding 15psi then when its finally opening over shooting causing the surge.. Very surprised it different happen whilst being mapped ...
 
beachbuggy said:
Ironically.. Things working to well!

Or the n75 not working properly..or actuator sticking..

the actuator might be sticking thus holding 15psi then when its finally opening over shooting causing the surge.. Very surprised it different happen whilst being mapped ...
Click to expand...

That's interesting! Nick said something about a sticking actuator actually thinking about it! It's hard to remember everything haha How do I fix a sticking actuator then? That does make sense...
 
Benjiman46 said:
That's interesting! Nick said something about a sticking actuator actually thinking about it! It's hard to remember everything haha How do I fix a sticking actuator then? That does make sense...
Click to expand...

replace it. Can be done on the car, you just need to remove the water feed pipe banjo on the turbo.. Then its 2 bolts on the turbo and the nut on the actuator. Once its removed check the waste gate arm/flap to ensure free movement before installing new actuator..
 
Cheers mate :) atm it's looking like a new MAF and actuator... I think the n75 is ok tbh... What does everyone think?
 
Last few n75 I've seen removed have crumbled to bits. I don't know how much they retail at At the minute but if there only cheapish you might swell replace it mate. Then you know all running well and sound . Or replace what you said await results from them then see if you got to replace the n75........

Sean
 
s33nyboy12 said:
Last few n75 I've seen removed have crumbled to bits. I don't know how much they retail at At the minute but if there only cheapish you might swell replace it mate. Then you know all running well and sound . Or replace what you said await results from them then see if you got to replace the n75........

Sean
Click to expand...

I've had mine off and ultrasonic cleaned it, dried it out and stuck it back and it still does the same thing so I'm inclined to think it's the actuator.

Is there any way of cleaning the actuator?
 
Is it a genuine K04 turbo on your car? the wastegates on the copies (and some hybrids from reputable companies) can be sticky...

You can't 'clean' an actuator as such... not really setup that way... assuming its not a Forge or other aftermarket replacement...

It maybe the actuator diaphragm is leaking making it slower to react...

Using the link I lovingly supplied in the stickies to help you look up fault codes...

2. po116 g62 engine coolant temp sensor code - No idea what to do about this! Advice please
16500/P0116/000278 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16500/P0116/000278 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal

3. p1548 n75 - again no idea if this means it needs replacing or not, but Nick said it's "Lazy" causing a torque spike as you can see on the graph.
17956/P1548/005448 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17956/P1548/005448 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75): Open Circuit

4. po107 mass air flow sensor - Nick said this will need replacing soon... It's not dead yet, but it's "dodgy" which I'm hoping is what's causing problem 5 and 6...
16491/P0107 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16491/P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) (G71) or Barometric Pressure (BARO) (F96): Signal Low

So... not a MAF but a MAP sensor... this could well be the cause of your issue...

<tuffty/>
 
It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them :)

Ben
 
Benjiman46 said:
It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them :)

Ben
Click to expand...

Got a bike pump? Remove pipe off the actuator and attach pipe from pipe to actuator, will need a but if customisation to make it work, pump and see what happens, really you need a psi gauge on there as well or try and hook in you boost gauge.
 
I have the same boosting/flutter problem with mine after my map, hoping you will identify the problem for me :p
 
<tuffty/> said:
Is it a genuine K04 turbo on your car? the wastegates on the copies (and some hybrids from reputable companies) can be sticky...
Click to expand...

Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



The hissing is air leaking from the actuator at the place where the rod moves in and out.

Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!
 
Last edited:
IH786 said:
Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!
Click to expand...

sorry to break it to you, but it'll last no longer! It breaks as its badly built and the angle of the rod out the actuator is wrong causing excessive pressure on the diaphram and leading it to split.. Prawn had the same issue.. I had to make a spacer when I fixed the turbo to fix the problem...And looking at yours I can see it suffers the same issue..
 
beachbuggy said:
sorry to break it to you, but it'll last no longer! It breaks as its badly built and the angle of the rod out the actuator is wrong causing excessive pressure on the diaphram and leading it to split.. Prawn had the same issue.. I had to make a spacer when I fixed the turbo to fix the problem...And looking at yours I can see it suffers the same issue..
Click to expand...

Noo!!!

This car has caused me no end of problems - read my thread on SCN but to summarise:

Slipping clutch
Knackered actuator
WMI siphoning
ESP kicking in all the time

And my winter car died of a blocked oil pump after about 10 minutes!

Can you make up a spacer for me - pretty please :)
 
Bit tricky without the actuator,

you need to make a half moon spacer with a hole in the middle for the bolt. When you look at yours you'll easily see the rod is at an angle, it needs to be straight out at 90degrees .. Please make sure you do this as just fitting a new actuator without will only cause it to ail again.. It's the bracket that's at fault, badly made.. If your taking it off as well you'll see what I mean..

Where are you?

when you get the new one, bolt it in without putting the end on the waste gate and you'll see how bad it is!
 
Benjiman46 said:
It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them :)

Ben
Click to expand...

come on ya tight git and get a forge actuator bought and see if that solves ya problem if not its ya map sensor and if that doesent sort it, its back to the drawing board
 
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AVLO said:
come on ya tight git and get a forge actuator bought and see if that solves ya problem if not its ya map sensor and if that doesent sort it, its back to the drawing board
Click to expand...

Since found out that the code Ben posted was incorrect... it was p0101 which is a MAF implausible signal..

...and Forge actuators aren't much good tbh... not enough travel IMO and the plastic bush sticks...

<tuffty/>
 
IH786 said:
Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



The hissing is air leaking from the actuator at the place where the rod moves in and out.

Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!
Click to expand...


Here you go
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/109831-prawn-bigals-a3-track-car-61.html

post 2435 shoes the actuator and you can see the spacer to make it fit true.. Quite big!

a few pages back shows the wrong thrust collar fitted to cr turbos as well.
 
beachbuggy said:
Here you go
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/109831-prawn-bigals-a3-track-car-61.html

post 2435 shoes the actuator and you can see the spacer to make it fit true.. Quite big!

a few pages back shows the wrong thrust collar fitted to cr turbos as well.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate I will try and sort something out before I fit the new one :)

Don't remind me about the thrust collar - I'm fully aware my turbo is probably a ticking time bomb ready to expire at some point!
 
Jonny48 said:
I have the same boosting/flutter problem with mine after my map, hoping you will identify the problem for me :p
Click to expand...

It's a common thing in high flowing cars I've recently found out... Because I've got the B5 TIP, Jetex and a relentless DP and decat the turbo spools up much faster than standard and I THINK it's the N75 desperately trying to get the boost to the correct pressure (because there's more boost now it's mapped, it's harder to control) which causes your fluctuation.

<tuffty/> said:
Since found out that the code Ben posted was incorrect... it was p0101 which is a MAF implausible signal..

...and Forge actuators aren't much good tbh... not enough travel IMO and the plastic bush sticks...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Yeah I mistook a 1 for a 7 on the code haha my mistake... I'm going to change the MAF and the n75 and then pop it back to Niki to have another drive in it for me. Top service :)

Don't worry, I wouldn't buy one Forge ones... A standard one is more reliable, easier to set up and much cheaper...

Ben
 
Where can you buy just a standard actuator? Had a look, can't find any :(
 
You cant get a standard one from audi as I believe they came with the turbo itself? My actuator is dying and im in need of one. that ebay add says "for ko3 cars" im sure. And im sure bill said you can get forge actuators with a metal bush too? I need one too :(
 
Replaced the actuator, it's better but still flutters, n75 valve next?
 
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