Need help bleeding coolant. Fill resivoir up to max let and after driving to get it up to temp the coolant is coming back out the overflow. How do you get rid of the air lock.
Help. Bleed coolant on 2.0 tdi
- Thread starter chucky121
- Start date
Are you sure the air lock is not to do with ice ? If the coolant does not have at least 50/50 antifreeze there is every chance it may have frozen in one of the pipes.
Run the engine with the cap off the reservoir bottle so that there is no pressure in the system. Keep an eye on the bottle and also the temperature gauge. If the temperature goes over 90 then switch off and replace the cap. When screwing the cap down it appears to be tight but if you stop first then you can keep turning until it 'locks'.
Other than that you could drain the whole system and start again with the proper antifreeze mixture.
Coolant is 50/50. Will try and leave it running in the morning. Temp never goes over 90 so it is circulating
Is there a possibilty you did not secure the cap properly ? If you didn't then the coolant would boil and overflow. System must be pressurised to achieve correct temperature without boiling.
Cap is on correctly. Was driving the car before and low coolant light come on. Temp was still at 90 so not overheating. Filled the resivoir back up and by the time I had got home the coolant was on the normal mark ( half way up the resivoir) will check it in the morning to see if it has dropped.
has anyone bypassed the egr cooler on the 2.0 bkd? just replaced cylinder head since it was cracked, sometimes getting white smoke out of exhaust, (condensation maybe) and having trouble bleeding the coolant back through the system
thanks
thanks
Yup. Egr blank from ebay. Itll cause an engine light. And unless uve got other issues somewhere i wudnt do it without gettin the egr function mapped out properly. Mine was fubbered which is y i blocked mine
what two pipes are u on about?
I blocked mine from where the EGR pipe meets the intake near the throttle body. i thought thats what u was referring to?
The two water pipes on the cooler at the back. It's not the egr that is causing bother its that I'm loosing water and think its the cooler leaking
Again today Ran engine up to operating temp. Never goes over 90. Replaced the cap after topped coolant up to level. Drove it home tonight and checked again after a good 15 miles and the coolant has dropped slightly. Looks like it coming out the overflow of the cap since their is coolant around the chassis leg.
If you are sure the cap is on properly then it sound like you might need a new coolant tank.
Sure the cap is on. Turned it till it locked and can't go any further. Not sure why its doing this. Seems to be not loosing as much coolant as it did a few days ago. On Sunday the tank was jus about empty and now it's just below the half way mark. Just fitted a new cylinder head on to car so I know it's not gasket or anything. When I was giving the car some revs the water started spewing out of the tank when the cap was off. Does seen like an air lock. Even though you can see the water circulating.
Baza1819
Registered User
Baza1819
Registered User
Similar issue on my car but heaters are very poor ! What was you thinking the issue could be Chris ?
Not sure if you heaters aren't blowing hot. Mines blowing hot but pushing water out of the expansion tank and leaving the level low. Help!!!!
That's what I'm wanting to know. Surely an egr valve doesn't need to be cooled. If it is the cooler leaking I was thinking of just deleting it but still runing the egr valve. Surely some has had issues like this.
No,
you will cook the EGR valve and generally choke up the engine, it's not designed to have red hot exhaust gases fed into the inlet.
Rick
you will cook the EGR valve and generally choke up the engine, it's not designed to have red hot exhaust gases fed into the inlet.
Rick
Baza1819
Registered User
This is my 3rd post about this, can someone help??
Just replaced the cylinder head on my a3 since it was cracked (early 2.0 2004). its all back together and running sweet just one issue, i cant get the fans to cut in at operating temp. the heaters inside stay cold, sometimes go hot for a bit but mostly cold, i can see that their is coolant circulating so just wondering if its badly air locked. cant even drive the car 10 miles without the coolant being forced out of the overflow on the cap, resulting in low coolant light coming on, car never overheats. left the car ticking over to get to operating temp with cap on and with out cap and its still not working, this morning i could here like a bubbling sound from the heater matrix when the heaters did blow hot, starting to give up now
Just replaced the cylinder head on my a3 since it was cracked (early 2.0 2004). its all back together and running sweet just one issue, i cant get the fans to cut in at operating temp. the heaters inside stay cold, sometimes go hot for a bit but mostly cold, i can see that their is coolant circulating so just wondering if its badly air locked. cant even drive the car 10 miles without the coolant being forced out of the overflow on the cap, resulting in low coolant light coming on, car never overheats. left the car ticking over to get to operating temp with cap on and with out cap and its still not working, this morning i could here like a bubbling sound from the heater matrix when the heaters did blow hot, starting to give up now
best way to get rid of the air? i have had this running for a good wile, up to 90 on the temp sensor, heaters are blowing cold air sometimes hot, coolant just bubbles up
think im going to put this car on ebay as damaged, still no luck have bypassed the egr cooler just to see if i can get the system bled, but the engine keeps pressurizing and spitting the coolant out, fans go between hot and cold, just wont bleed right cheap car if any one wants it, a3 se 2004 2.0 77,000 on clock, rest of the car is mint!!
On my 2.0 tdi BLB you run up to temp 90 and then the 2 matrix pipes that go into the bulkhead , one of these can't remember from memory has a pin hole in..undo clip and slide pipe off a fraction until the air and water comes out , push pipe back onto metal hose and tighten down. This is the highest point and therefore air gets trapped there..I bought a nylon straight through join with a bleed screw on for a permanent fixture for around 7 quid and works great every time I need to drain the system...hope this helps ..
