While I know there is a little more to come power wise with fine tuning, WMI etc I did sort out a power graph showing a completely std S3's power compared to where she is now with a GT3071...

s3_std_bigturbo.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
Minor update... got a little pressie from great mate Mark at ADI... dipstick tube bracket for an AEB A4... doesn't sound like much but its ideal for my inlet manifold..
20121021_161358-1.jpg


This fits to the centre fixing bolts of the inlet manifold and holds the dipstick tube between runners 2 and 3... had to mod it a little to fit right as my runners are a little shorter due to the fabrication but bit of paint and all sorted...

Here it is on an AEB...
P1040878.jpg


...and on mine...
20121021_171731.jpg


20121021_171943.jpg


Car is driving nicely but map still in need of tweaking as its got more to give and I want to smooth off some of the little rough edges (OCD++)

<tuffty/>
 
Did you use the same orange pipe and dipstick? Nice idea, i will have to do the same.

yep... just turned it around to face the other way... I bent the metal tube going into the block a little (have to do this on SEMs too) so it would clear the plenum...

<tuffty/>
 
Been busy today, with the elite fabrication skillz of Tony and Bill occasionally mumbling 'BRAAAAAAARRRRRRRRPP!!' I have managed to piece together the exhaust system.



I have been running the OEM system since I fitted the BT.


3" stainless steel all the way and pretty much straight through...


20091121_IMG_3918.jpg



20091121_IMG_3924.jpg





<tuffty/>

Tuffy, is your exhaust a noisy one? I will be building a 3" exhaust but not sure what resonator and back box to use. I like the look of the smaller box compared to the coffin like OEM one, I am getting to old for noisy exhausts these days :unsure: and the police here in Dubai love to make your life difficult if your exhaust is noisy.
 
Tuffty, is your exhaust a noisy one? I will be building a 3" exhaust but not sure what resonator and back box to use. I like the look of the smaller box compared to the coffin like OEM one, I am getting to old for noisy exhausts these days :unsure: and the police here in Dubai love to make your life difficult if your exhaust is noisy.

The one in the post you quoted is very noisy which (if you read on from there a little you will see) is why I changed the back box to a Milltek one :)

<tuffty/>
 
Ahh yes, now I see. Does it sound different to a full milltek system? Louder, quieter or the same :)
 
Had the car on the dyno today to see if the odd boost issue is now sorted.... apparently not...

After 3 back to back runs the turbo was getting laggier and laggier... ******!...

Bill thought it was the wastegate... this was confirmed with a smoke test....


...and the fact the top of the tial could be rocked!!! so it had to come off... took it apart and...

...this was 'closed'...
20121104_163246.jpg


...this would be why it wouldn't close...
20121104_164248.jpg



...which resulted in the seal doing this...
20121104_164544.jpg


...and on the piston itself you can see witness marks from it hitting and a scorch mark from the heat...
20121104_164803.jpg



All this was causing the head of the tial to pitch and the valve to stick... giving varied boost and of course the inevitable lag on subsequent runs...

So... the poor old girl is in bits again awaiting bits... boo :(

<tuffty/>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nothing major but good to find the problem

Will you be going for a Tial again or repairing it?

Will be fixing it mate... the only 'broken' bit really is the seal and can get hold of those... I will just reassemble using loctite!!!

Its a pain but means we will be checking all tials we use on customer builds in the future just to be sure... I was quite lucky that mine is fairly accessible... most aren't..

In other news (and I forgot to post this...) I am now an official member of the melty boost pipe club with Prawn and Stacey...
20121104_162224.jpg


...so when she all goes back together I'll be looking into sorting the heat shielding out...

<tuffty/>
 
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Ooo ya! Seen this on FB. is that the IC pipe?

One from the turbo to the top charge pipe... heat from the Tial has sorted this one out.... did I mention not to underestimate the need for heat shielding on builds like this? lol ;P

<tuffty/>
 
I still need to make a new heatshield for mine before it melts through again! I'm currently carrying a spare brand new bend in the glovebox and a screwdriver ready for it just incase it decides to go again.
 
Got the tial repaired under warrenty by Owens... quick turn around too so props to them...

The have to remove some of the paint to get to the serial number as initially they couldn't see it so said it was most likely a fake!!! we know this isn't the case as Bill only buys these from Owens but thankfully I still had the box and Owens had already gone ahead to check realising the top was painted so all was good... phew!!.. also got a new reducer from Forge seeing as mine was suffering a little from the heat lol...
20121110_091740.jpg


Owens changed the diaphram and valve assembly as well as loctiting the screws in...
20121110_092412.jpg


20121110_092425.jpg


...and of course repainted the top ;P
20121110_121242.jpg


So, refitted the tial...
20121110_125451.jpg


...and retired the original K04 heat 'shield' as this was looking rather tired...
20121110_125432.jpg


Clearly the hose is a lot closer than I remember it being and I think when the engine comes out (at some point in the future) for a bottom end build I will look to address this a bit better but for now it is what it is....
20121110_130440.jpg


Wrapped the hose in a reflective heat wrap with 1/2" of ceramic wool material that should hopefully keep things happy for now... I doubt its going to be the best solution as I need more air gap to do a more effective solution but it will do for now...
20121110_151109.jpg


Also had an issue with heat affecting the silicon vac pipe for the actuator so made a small shield to try and help that out...
20121110_151142.jpg


...fitted that and some extra heat wrap to try and prevent the vac pipe from getting damaged...
20121110_154121.jpg


Not had a chance to get her on the dyno as yet... still have an ongoing issue that causes an excessive fuelling on cruise which 'appears' to be triggered when I use the cruise control so I have an idea on where to look map wise... for the time being though she seems to run ok albeit a little 'rough' on cruise (although Mark reckons he couldn't feel anything when he was in the car earlier)... I know its there so will look at map tweakage in due course...

Getting there... :)

<tuffty/>
 
I couldn't detect any hesitation, i was too busy looking at how quickly we were covering ground in such a small space with such effortless performance.

I'm awaiting you fixing yours ready to start tuning mine,lol
 
I couldn't detect any hesitation, i was too busy looking at how quickly we were covering ground in such a small space with such effortless performance.

I'm awaiting you fixing yours ready to start tuning mine,lol

I need to get you a replacement MAF sensor first bud.... :)

<tuffty/>
 
gone thru your build thread to now and that is really some amazing work dude, i love how you kept the engine bay looking as stock as possible with doing BT! i really like it
 
I, or should I say the whole of ASN have been waiting for some sort of update or mod with your build but nothing after a month and a half :(
Have you taken a Christmas break then ? :laugh:
 
Lol... not exactly no...been busy and have been chasing some fuelling issues as well as replacing the engine in the wifes Fiesta when she ran it a little low on oil (DOH!!)...

Not much to 'update' on as such but I have found bits of 'rubber' in the fuel rail which can only have got there from the hose coming off the fuel filter... these hoses are known to rot and in extreme cases block the FPR (ironically giving similar symptoms to the ones I have been experiencing) so thats all coming off over xmas for new hoses and and a thorough clean... I am also running a 4bar FPR now to see if the extra pressure helps with fuel atomisation and hopefully better fuel economy and/or power... not something I normally recommend tbh but I am running a DA-31 inline pump which has plenty of grunt so in the interests of development it was worth a punt...

I have redone the mapping again and now using a map Bill has been working on with the boost building launch control stuff on... (videos to follow when I get a chance)...

I have a few other odds and sods to do but once I have anything worthy of an update I'll post it up :)

<tuffty/>
 
Small update... while investigating my fuelling issue I noticed some black deposits in the FPR bowl... having seen this before I knew it was the rubber fuel lines rotting... so today I stripped the fuel rail and fuel hoses off and replaced the hose with new fuel line, stuck the FPR and injectors in the ultrasonic cleaner and cleaned out the fuel rail...

FPR was showing signs of clogging...
20121228_144030.jpg


I had cleaned out the FPR bowl the other day as I fitted a 4bar FPR to see if it would improve the atomisation of fuel from the injectors but bits had clearly got back in...
20121228_144048.jpg


Kept an eye on STFT's and LTFT's on the drive home using the Torque app on my android phone and things are looking up... STFT's aren't leaping around as much as they were before and LTFT's seem stable at the moment too...

Will give it time to settle and do some more proper logging to see where we are...

As a bit of a laugh I tried the Anitlag/Launch control out tonight... sorry but the sound didn't work very well for technical reasons but you get the idea


<tuffty/>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Full throttle shifting takes some time to master doesn't it

Whats the revs set at for the launch control, Mine is at 4000 rpms but seams perfect for my spec

Currently set at 4.5k but if I don't get it right its bogs down so going to play with the parameters a bit to tune it in... its not a massive priority as its more a 'fun' thing but I also have gear based boost to play with which is currently set with 1st gear getting limited (can't remember what boost off hand) and the rest on full boost... this might be beneficial on a launch on the 'less is more' approach but the only way to test really is to do it and tbh I am not out to kill the clutch just yet lol...

<tuffty/>
 
Not much to report really... not had time to do much other than drive the car during the snowy weather (winter tyres + AWD rocks)...

The car behaved impeccably for the whole week until the Friday when after leaving the works car park STFT's were taking over 25% fuel out... brilliant... pulled over and shut the engine off... restarted and all was good again... jeez... getting tiring now but I do believe I have sticking injectors... with that in mind I have a set of Bosch 550's ready to try complete with some slightly non OEM looking unspacers :)

20130202_171458.jpg


20130202_171915.jpg


I also believe my VVT tensioner to be on its last legs... I get a rattle on cold start from time to time and occasionally under low speeds the part throttle repsonse feels a bit jerky... this could be due to a number of reasons but considering the VVT is the only thing I haven't replaced in the head I thought I may as well do this too...

Genuine VVT units are around £350+vat trade... not a cheap part... I have had a copy unit in the past but that was just rubbish so I have been running my original unit ever since... found what looked to be bargain of the century on eBay...

ebay_vvt_zpse14f7871.jpg


£110 for a VAG unit... seemed too good to be true... sadly it turned out to be a forgery... in the listing its pictured next to a VAG box and had 4 rings cast onto the unit... however the unit turned up in a polystyrene container with a 'vag box' flat packed in the jiffy bag with it...

20130123_120805_zps6e604e65.jpg


20130123_120818_zps6bcdfbfe.jpg



Here is a genuine unit...
058109088k-genuine_zpsb0fdabb1.jpg


Signs that the unit I had was a fake...

4 rings logo looks like it was cast on afterwards to an existing copy unit as there is a 'tide' mark visible...
20130123_123857_zps161c2d73.jpg


'DE' logo had the 'E' the wrong way round... it also had HVT cast on the unit rather than HYT...
20130126_094126.jpg


..compared to a genuine unit...
20130126_094106.jpg


The tensioner tool supplied with genuine units carry a 4 rings logo, this doesn't have any...
20130123_123828_zpsd3060178.jpg


The barcode on the box wasn't an actual barcode... I work with barcodes and nothing I had available could read it...
20130123_120710_zps2c2a36c4.jpg


The box itself has a shiny finish where all the VAG boxes I have ever handled are a matt finish... the VAG logos looked almost photocopied onto the box..
20130123_120737_zps0632dfff.jpg


When I came to return the unit I tried to fit it into the box...
20130124_080603_zps1dfa9f9c.jpg


That kinda seals it really...

Be careful people... if it looks too good to be true, it probably is...

For reference here is a pic of the copy unit I bought... I bought this knowing it was a cheap copy unit but all it did was cause a 'setpoint not reached' fault code...
IMAG0482.jpg


I need to new tensioner of some description so next on the list will be a unit from GSF as I have seen these come in VAG boxes which suggests they are genuine... failing that its bite the bullet and buy a genuine one from TPS :(

<tuffty/>
 
Tuffty do you think you could record/film your cold starr rattle??

It doesn't happen all the time and only as it first fires up.. makes a kinda brrrrraaaaat... noise for a second or two as the oil pressure builds then its gone... it doesn't rattle once oil pressure is there and also only comes back if I haven't driven the car for a few days

<tuffty/>
 
exactly what i get. Literally lasts for a second but its quite loud. A 'braaaat' or 'brrrrrrrt' is a good way of putting it lol. I tell myself its something meaningless rattling but i should prob sort it out.
 
I have also been looking round for a new vvt unit and came close to buying one from Ecs but people on vortex said they're a load of crap so haven't bought one

Keep us updated as will probably follow suite ;)
 
Top work there DCI PT, You should be on crime watch!

With all your cunning new mappery skills, why don't you just sack off the crap VVT system and code it out, and pay £100 for a brand new genuine non VVT tensioner Paul?
 

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