Adjustable rear tie bars s3

s3clarke

s3clarke

Money grabbing s3!
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can these be sourced anywere cheap?

i dont fancy paying £200+ with bushes..:sadlike:
 
There was a guy making them and selling them for 150 ill try find the guy.
 
Found these instead. Cant believe what some people sell these for. Im sure its because they are needed instead of wanted so price is bumped up. Plus pm s3dave. His look incredibly high quality.these things are prone to breaking so might be worth the extra? Daz
 
audi upgrades
unfortunately dave has stopped making them.
its one of those things you're going to have to cough up for unfortunately. its cheaper than forking out for tyres all the time because of excessive wear! think of it that way
 
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superkarl said:
unfortunately dave has stopped making them.
its one of those things you're going to have to cough up for unfortunately. its cheaper than forking out for tyres all the time because of excessive wear! think of it that way
Click to expand...

Ahh my bad didnt know. I know what your saying karl but its still a bit unfair imo. Isnt negative camber good for handling or by lowering are you passing that peak point. The tyre wear doesnt bother me if it handles better?? Sorry to high jack
 
daz-20vt said:
Ahh my bad didnt know. I know what your saying karl but its still a bit unfair imo. Isnt negative camber good for handling or by lowering are you passing that peak point. The tyre wear doesnt bother me if it handles better?? Sorry to high jack
Click to expand...

Not in this case no... neg camber on the front works due to the way the suspension loads up on turn in so you roll on to the tread area getting more grip... this is less relevant on the rear as the effect is less so with more neg camber on the rear the less full tread area you get on the road...

General rule of thumb is to dial the rears to -1deg camber which can only be done with adjustable tie bars...

Most of the manufacturers of these parts are European and as such need to acquire TUV approval which would no doubt bump the price up on a part thats not got a massive market...

<tuffty/>
 
They are what they are at the end of the day... other than Dave doing them at an affordable price you have 2 choices... cough up and get your tyre wear and handling sorted or don't and live with accelerated tyre wear and less grip/handling issues from the rear...

Can't say more than that really...

<tuffty/>
 
Thought I might have a crack at making a set of these as the asking price for branded ones does seem high. I can TIG weld anyway plus I know a guy who could machine me the threaded parts and I already have the poly bushes for standard arms (not fitted) which could be used. Thought I'd just use mild steel but beef the section size up and position the adjuster at the hub end rather than middle (max. bending point).

Definitely need something as the car's pretty low and the rear tyres aren't lasting long enough at the moment.

Once I've made them I'll stick a post up to say whether it worked or whether they snapped 100m down the road......
 
<tuffty/> said:
Not in this case no... neg camber on the front works due to the way the suspension loads up on turn in so you roll on to the tread area getting more grip... this is less relevant on the rear as the effect is less so with more neg camber on the rear the less full tread area you get on the road...

General rule of thumb is to dial the rears to -1deg camber which can only be done with adjustable tie bars...

Most of the manufacturers of these parts are European and as such need to acquire TUV approval which would no doubt bump the price up on a part thats not got a massive market...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...


ah ok, im lowering my car 20mm rear and was hoping to get away with that but seems i probobly wont, ill get these sorted and the rears set at -1, would you recommend matching the front up with the rear at -1? daz, thanks tuffty
 
Check the stickies as there is some info in there under performance tuning about suspension setups...

<tuffty/>
 
I went gruvenparts. You get an ok deal if you buy 4. I opted for the drop links too as I figured mine probably need doing and can't harm to go rose jointed (if they are greased!).

I was reading a bloke in the states' thread about an R32 build:
VWVortex.com - R32 Track Build

He seems to run around 2.8 F and 2.0 R and he runs it daily. He seems to get ok tyre wear too.

ThomasR32.jpg


I've just bought some ground control camber mounts too :)
 
Cheers lads, it is steep for just 2 pieces of metal with a screw thread in. Im going to get the coilovers lower it and see how bad it is. i'l then know weather i need to fork out for them or not.
 
Iv been running mine without doing the rear tie bars for twelve months now. Lucky for me my tyre wear seams to be ok ( I know superkarl has shreaded a few) but the crazy camber on the rear looks flippin stupid. Shall soon be fitting my shiny new (last in production) S3dave's SS tie bars ;) soon as i can free up done time to get em on.
 
Are they an easy fit? hoping to tackle them along with a 20mm rear ARB this weekend. Then get the front bushes done (along with front ground control camber plates) and a proper alignment.
 
as long as the joints in the hubs arent seized it isnt that difficult, alot of wiggling, aligning, and theyre in.

btw thats alot of camber on that r32, perfect for track use, he must A) do a fair few track days B) drive like a maniac for his tyre wear to be ok. my bosses race car runs nearly 5 degrees on the front, imagine what that looks like!

you cant get a great deal on the standard wishbones on the front, maybe 1.5, which is enough for most. you can have more if you lengthen the slots on the wishbones (filing/grinding), and 1.0 on the rear is also adequate for most too.
 
How low can I go before rear neg camber gets too excessive? I will be replacing rear tie arms when I can source some but will be fitting my coilovers on Tuesday. Will a 50ish mm drop be ok to run for a few weeks or so?
 
Jpd89 said:
How low can I go before rear neg camber gets too excessive? I will be replacing rear tie arms when I can source some but will be fitting my coilovers on Tuesday. Will a 50ish mm drop be ok to run for a few weeks or so?
Click to expand...

Anything beyond 20mm drop is likely to accelerate the wear... the rears are -1 to -1.5 deg std... 50mm will definitely accelerate wear... as for how much over a couple of weeks I don't know but lowering will adjust the toe of the rear so will wear accordingly (like having the tracking out on the fronts)

Adjustable tie bars when adjusted in conjunction with the trailing arm mounts will allow you to get to zero toe and a sensible camber on the back

<tuffty/>
 
Can I detach the rear tie arms without touching the springs and shocks?
 
Yeah, now I have std bars modified to have adjusting :arco:
Only thing that friend of mine forgot to measure the stock length of bars before cutting.. :keule:
So could someone please measure the length of the bar (lower or upper).

Also noticed that the lower bars are about 2mm longer than the upper. So if You want little less camber for rear, just swap upper and lower around!
 
Maybe if there is enough interest....we can get s3dave to run another batch at a more affordable price? I know i could do with some of these but i don't want to make the mistake of using cheap spurious parts. Come on Dave, help us lads out :)
 
+1!

Think Dave is currently looking for new suppliers though?
 
ShaunS3 said:
Maybe if there is enough interest....we can get s3dave to run another batch at a more affordable price? I know i could do with some of these but i don't want to make the mistake of using cheap spurious parts. Come on Dave, help us lads out :)
Click to expand...

I'm in if he can do a new batch.
Thanks.
 
ShaunS3 said:
Maybe if there is enough interest....we can get s3dave to run another batch at a more affordable price? I know i could do with some of these but i don't want to make the mistake of using cheap spurious parts. Come on Dave, help us lads out :)
Click to expand...

I'd be up for a set of these, however I did speak to Dave within the past month or 2 and he said it would be quiet hard to reproduce them for a reasonable price....We could always try and group buy from another manufacturer/distributor if there is a lot of interest?
 
The CNC guy who did my threaded rod.. left and right hand, as put his price up to do them, (he was going through a £80 die every 5th one) what was a quality item as cheap as possible as made it a quite expensive part to reproduce, and that is not why i did them in the first place.... sorry guys..unless we have any cnc guys willing to do the rod on here?? 20mm stainless rod...

HSS Metric Die 20mm x 1.5mm M20 LEFT HAND UK MADE | eBay :ermm:
 
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