Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

Well made a start on the gearbox removal tonight after work as have got tommorrow and thursday off this week

Managed to get a reasonable amount done although doesn't look like loads, but have got driveshafts unbolted and power steering pipes all out of the way so am hoping all that is left is prop, transfer box, driveshafts out of the way and drop it down with the subframe in place if possible?

Has anyone removed the box with the subframe in place?

Heres some pics

Just as started (with the new rocker which hadn't posted on here yet)
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Car back in its usual position lol
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Boot and rear as a garage ;)
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How it was left after a couple of hours work with the battery dropped back in for the alarm
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Have started to clean the spare block down at work after stripping it down and not best pleased as had a cambelt snap at some point and the head and pistons are pitted where valves have bounced around which makes the pistons resale value ****e and was hoping on building the head in my own time with uprated valves, cams and possibly some porting

Am using a rotary wire brush on the block as is rusty and flaking, what paint do people use when painting there blocks?

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I will get some pics when back at work of the head but i cant imagine it would be a goood idea to use it but will post up when got them for a few opinions of people in the know
 
im realllly liking that rocker cover! alot!
keep up the good work stace. im interested in an 'easy' way of dropping the box. and i like your 'on the drive' style too
 
Cheers guys will keep it the thread updated and will report how it goes for you superk

Cheers about the rocker it was a picture of bills that made me fall in love with the smoothness lol, and really love the crackle black I should hopefully be getting a few other items done in it shortly (I was ment to last Monday but completely forgot)
 
Got some goodies powder coated today in crackle same as the rocker and got a right result as originally got quoted £30 for a dv and they ended up doing both items for the original quote :)

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Box is all ready to drop out now as have faffed about a bit today and had little motivation

As i havent put it in the thread yet I'd like to say thanks to Damo who popped my grill out at inters wrapped it and had it back to me a couple of days later and done a brilliant job and has really changed how the front of the car looks

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Do you still need a gearbox Stacey? I have my spare S3 box sitting here surplus now I've sold the car.
 
Sorry if ive missed, i skim read alot, but is it the selector fork thats gone mate? If so can you use the intergrated engineering uprated selector fork?
 
Do you still need a gearbox Stacey? I have my spare S3 box sitting here surplus now I've sold the car.

Would have been perfect mate but am expecting delivery of one today hopefully which i got from tsr performance after seeing them as the cheapest on the bay and managed to knock them down as im still waiting delivery on one of their manifolds ;)
 
Sorry if ive missed, i skim read alot, but is it the selector fork thats gone mate? If so can you use the intergrated engineering uprated selector fork?

No probs mate and yeah afaik its the selector fork that has gone

I will hopefully be rebuilding this one (or at least attempting it) with uprated parts at my leisure as the rivets on the diff crown wheel are a known issue and will hopefully sort out the selector fork issues

Have you got a linky as cant find it anywhere on ie's site?
 
With you on this one mate... I think I will need to do a pre-emptive build on a box ready to go in... seems this is the metaphorical equivalent of the 'rods' issue... my syncro on 2nd feels a little crunchy at times and when cold the box is a little notchy at best... gotta love cars :)

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah does seem like it could head that way with the age, millage and power of these cars now

The (familiar) question/answer will end up when will it fail rather than will it fail lol ;)

Just need to find some parts drawings and spec sheets for torque settings etc for the box then will be laughing, although i suspect they're not that easy to get hold of
 
Well box is out and did end up undoing all 4 subframe bolts in the end and had nightmares getting the transfer off with the downpipe in situ but ended up having to slide the box off an inch or so to give me enough clearance to slide the transfer out

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Box out on the deck

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I thought whilst it was in bits I'd check to see how the clutch is doing

The friction plate is rather worn as are starting to loose some of the grooves

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The pressure plate was actually looking better whilst the fly was still looking rather blue :whistle:

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Think I will go ahead and order a paddle friction plate from southbend and keep the fly and pressure plate as it is, iirc southbend quoted £180 for a dampened paddle friction plate so will order one to sling in next time it's all in bits ;)

Now I'm just playing the waiting game for the box :(
 
Good work mate! i cant believe you got the transfer box out on the drive way, good job! I have the joy of removing my transfer box by the looks of it to access my oil drain pipe, lol. I did have a look the other day but it looks like a ******, so fair play.:yes:
 
Good work mate! i cant believe you got the transfer box out on the drive way, good job! I have the joy of removing my transfer box by the looks of it to access my oil drain pipe, lol. I did have a look the other day but it looks like a ******, so fair play.:yes:

Cheers mate and after looking again you will need to remove the turbo or the transfer i dont think it'll be possible to get at it otherwise

Heres a pic of showing how i had to undo one of the transfer bolts as couldn't get a selection of extensions and uj's though between the turbo and transfer so shows how tight it is throught there ;)

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Had to use an 8mm allen key with an 8mm spanner on it with another spanner to give it some extra leverage lol
 
Cheers mate and after looking again you will need to remove the turbo or the transfer i dont think it'll be possible to get at it otherwise

Good work mate! After reading this more im thinking of removing the turbo to get to the drain pipe. Would i be correct in saying you could remove the downpipe bolts from the turbo through the drivers wheel arch? I was looking today and cant get a clear view? I guess i will have to get gaskets or did you go gasketless in the end?

Good luck with the gear box hope all goes well.
 
Good work mate! After reading this more im thinking of removing the turbo to get to the drain pipe. Would i be correct in saying you could remove the downpipe bolts from the turbo through the drivers wheel arch? I was looking today and cant get a clear view? I guess i will have to get gaskets or did you go gasketless in the end?

Good luck with the gear box hope all goes well.

Getting any of it off to be honest mate is a complete pig and if yours is the same as my old MTM downpipe you will have to wind the studs out of the turbo or the wastegate as the two flanges are at different angles and can't pull it off the studs :(

I usually end up getting some nuts from underneath and others from the top from over the rocker cover and down the back, I also find that by removing the dog bone mount it makes it easier by giving you some movement to rock the engine if needed

It's not for the faint hearted and requires some patience but if you can be patient you'll be fine ;)

May be worth getting some cheap spanners (99p shop specials) to cut up and bend iirc 17mm for downpipe flange, 15mm turbo to Mani and 13mm wastegate flanges

Gasket wise I've always replaced the gaskets which you'll find generally on the audi rs2/s2 turbo setup from audi and the oem multilayer ones will be miles better than most aftermarket ones, if I get a chance next week at some point I'll look up the numbers on etka

I hope I haven't scared you off doing it lol but thought it's better to have a heads up ;)
 
After I'd messed around with DP bolts/studs/nuts on 3 occasions I was wishing I had a top mounted turbo. When I saw how easily accessible the top mounted DP nuts are I nearly cried. :sob:

5 bolt flanges on top mounts are as much a pain in the **** as K04's... v-band is where its at ;P

<tuffty/>
 
If the MTM kit was internally gated or one of the flanges had a v band or bolts wouldn't be half as bad but problem lies that it is physically impossible to pull the downpipe off without winding one set of the studs out which generally seem to be welded in, this is why I specifically asked for v bands on the custom downpipe ;)

Can't wait till the next set up.....top mount......all v-banded....wahoo :)
 
Good work ;) I'll go top mount on my eventual "proper" build but the GT28 kit is underslung :(
 
You all just need to get rid of the silly pretend quattro transverse mounted engine and buy a proper Audi with the engine the right way round.

Look, ACRES of space:

DSC 0260

:jester:
 
Definately looks like it's got it's plus sides but bet changing the clutch is a complete **** ;)

heh, yeh, that photo was taken at the start of a clutch change yestarday, i just pulled the whole engine and box, as its far easier to crane the lot out than be lain underneath trying to manoever 50kgs of gearbox around.


Tuffty: Nah thats got some silly V6 in it, not a nice 1.8T.
 
Yea, tell us Kev, Why did you have to pull the entire engine and box out just to change a clutch :laugh:
 
Because i'm wimpy and would rather have the engine crane do the lifting :p

Mark did his on the drive, just dropping the box out, but without a lift and a transmission jack, i'd rather just crane the whole lot out.
 
Loving the comments guys had me chuckling when I got the chance to keep having sneak peaks at tapatalk ;)

Well after ordering the gearbox Friday afternoon it has showed up this afternoon and was on a 48 hour courier ....can't help but think they didnt send it till I rang up Wednesday enquiring for a rough idea when it was going to be delivered?
Anyhows it's here now and will have to wait till Monday to fit as am working 12's all weekend :(

They also said that the Mani should be here Monday now, although I'm not particularly waiting on it, it's still nice to have it in hand so will wait and see as was supposed to have it before inters
 
Getting any of it off to be honest mate is a complete pig and if yours is the same as my old MTM downpipe you will have to wind the studs out of the turbo or the wastegate as the two flanges are at different angles and can't pull it off the studs :(

I usually end up getting some nuts from underneath and others from the top from over the rocker cover and down the back, I also find that by removing the dog bone mount it makes it easier by giving you some movement to rock the engine if needed

It's not for the faint hearted and requires some patience but if you can be patient you'll be fine ;)

May be worth getting some cheap spanners (99p shop specials) to cut up and bend iirc 17mm for downpipe flange, 15mm turbo to Mani and 13mm wastegate flanges

Gasket wise I've always replaced the gaskets which you'll find generally on the audi rs2/s2 turbo setup from audi and the oem multilayer ones will be miles better than most aftermarket ones, if I get a chance next week at some point I'll look up the numbers on etka

I hope I haven't scared you off doing it lol but thought it's better to have a heads up ;)

Yeah slightly nervous of undertaking the task!!lol! But for some reason i think i may be able to do it. I have just got to wait for a dryish day/week to crack on with it, i have patched up the leak and it is holding, but its one of those things i know it needs doing.
Thanks for the help bud
 
Yeah slightly nervous of undertaking the task!!lol! But for some reason i think i may be able to do it. I have just got to wait for a dryish day/week to crack on with it, i have patched up the leak and it is holding, but its one of those things i know it needs doing.
Thanks for the help bud

No probs mate will see if I can dig out the gasket numbers later

I'm sure you'll be fine mate it's just patience testing lol ;)

Give u's a shout if you have any issues or questions
 
Here's a few pics of the head which must have had a valve or two bounce around in there at some point

I was hoping to get the bottom end built, turbo etc changed, downpipe fabbed and mapped then at a later date drop this head on as and when is possible and should hopefully just need the map played with slightly

The plan being 1mm oversize valves ie cams and possibly a bit of porting?

Do you guys think this head is ok to use as have had a quick look and can't see any cracks, theres the pitting on a couple of cylinder from the valves but a lot of it will be lost with a skim, but was concerned about the pitting/roughness of the surface material around the valves

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This is the worst cylinder

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Can see there's an indent in this one as well but suspect will loose a lot of that with a skim as is mainly a burr

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Cheers