AH Fab / Ebay / Forge S3/A3 FMIC installs (image heavy)

[Piester]

It's back on the first page in the update section which is what I've based my purchases on. I've got 2x90 deg alloy bends and 2x90 deg silicone bends, all 63mm with jubilees.

What I'm not so sure on is whether I need to replace the stock hose that come off the charge pipe to the SMIC and the one that goes from the other SMIC to the intake manifold (upper boost hoses?)? They feel fairly soft so might potentailly be cavitating. If I should replace them, do I simply get the Forge jobbies?

Forge Upper Silicone Boost Hoses For Audi S3 1.8T 210/225hp

 

[Sam_]

Why would they cavitate? They are under boost remember?

Yeah thats what I posted above but I'm not sure if anyone's actually fitted it using those parts. Tuffty said he used 2x90 silicon, 2x90 alloy but there were pics of something that didn't look like 90 degree alloys.

 

[Sam_]

Can anyone confirm the best "leg length" for the 90 degree hard bends to fit an AH Fabs V2?

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

 

[<tuffty/>]

Get longer than you think you need and cut if need be...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

But the ends need to be swaged don't they? If I cut off the swaged ends it'll be a bit pointless?

 

[<tuffty/>]

This is true but you can get them redone?.... I normally use forge bends that come in one size and re-bead the ends if need be but I can see why that could be an issue...

Medium length then at a guess... trying to remember what we did when fitting the AH V2 to Barks car... may have trimmed the silicon a bit but don't recall trimming the alloy bends..

If you can't get them re-beaded using an appropriate tool then you can get the ends welded to do the same job... TIG weld beads on the end like I did to my R32 throttle body..

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

Yeah I could get them redone but I wanted to minimise the cash/time needed as you'd imagine. So it was literally just 2 90 degree alloy bends and 2 silicon 90 degree bends and use the standard MAP pipe? What about the drivers side? Did you just join to the standard rubber hose?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Alloy 90 deg bend from the top hose coming off the charge pipe, connects behind the headlight... 90 deg silicon from that to the FMIC inlet... from the other side of the FMIC same again, 90 deg silicon to a 90 deg alloy connecting to the short hose that connected the top of the SMIC to the MAP tube.... all pipework should be 63mm (OEM is 60mm but the 63mm alloy bends will fit in...)

And use JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel clips... not T-Clamps or std jubilees... :thumbsup:

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

How have most people cut the crash bar? Angle grinder with a cutting disc?

 

[Sevv]

How have most people cut the crash bar? Angle grinder with a cutting disc?

yup thats how Paul did it 1mm disc...if not mistaken

 

[Sevv]

Sam what length have you ordered as im ordering too and i dont want to cut them as you pointed out would appreciate it if you let me know ..

 

[Pedrosousa]

Audi S3 8P intercooler:

 

[Sam_]

Sam what length have you ordered as im ordering too and i dont want to cut them as you pointed out would appreciate it if you let me know ..

I ordered 130mm but they just arrived and the packet says 150mm haha so that was worthwhile. I'll see how it goes when I try to fit it. Are you in a mad rush or did you want to wait until I try to fit these and let you know if they are good?

 

[Sam_]

A warning to anyone ordering an AH Fabs V2. Make sure you ask for the mounts to be correct (i.e. pointing the opposite direction to the pipes). See the below thread for more info:

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/154418-right-ah-fabs-v2.html

 

[brasiliangringo]

Some pretty good guides here especially Tuffty and the AH FMIC.

Only thing i would say having smacked one of these A3s frontal into a tree (is how ****** solid the crash bars are) so by cutting the rear 3/4 out, it would seem like you are rendering it pretty useless imo. Would just fold as looses its structural rigidity in an impact. It is perhaps similar to cutting out the T from an RSJ and then placing weight on the remainding _ if you get my meaning with text characters !!

Point is, i wonder if it is worth cutting these impact bars rather than just deleting them completely and saving a little elbow grease ?

And finally, don't crash..

 

[<tuffty/>]

The crash bar is not structural to the rest of the car... (unlike an RSJ) its the equivalent of the old metal bumpers and designed to shrug off parking style low speed impacts... cutting it will impact this ability to an extent but then its the risk one takes when modding cars isn't it...

Removing it completely removes the protection (as little as it may be) to the FMIC once fitted... ideally you would want to fit the FMIC further back to allow the bar to be able to do its job more effectively but then we all know that would be nigh on impossibel to do...

The bumper bar gives limited but effective crash protection at low speed/low impact shunts as this is by design... its worth keeping in place even when cut IMO...

<tuffty/>

 

[brasiliangringo]

Yes i suppose in a serious prang its hard to tell what beneficial effect it would have. Anyway, my S3 fund is slowly coming together and im glad i stumbled on this mod as will probably do this one despite my history with trees

 

[[Dave B]]

Audi S3 8P intercooler:

Interesting...any test results of how this performs on a 1.8T?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Audi S3 8P intercooler:

Interesting...any test results of how this performs on a 1.8T?

These seem to perform well on the 8P's.. see lower temps on 8P's on the dyno than mapped 8L's... lots of surface area so effective cooling... not sure about flow capabilities though... its a narrow core but lots of rows...

Interestingly the Forge FIMC solution retains the OEM cooler and adds a second one..
Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

Would be wanting to do pressure drop tests on this fitted as a standalone cooler to see how effective it is but on a K04 it should work ok...

<tuffty/>

 

[JoeD]

As I have been getting a lot of PM questions about these - thought it might be worth listing what is needed in a thread just about this particular cooler.

For this fitting method you will HAVE to remove fog lights, and is for engines with inlet manifold with TB on the right hand side.

Intercooler specs are 600 x 300 x 76mm.

Piping needed:

2 x 90 degree 76mm hard pipes with beaded ends.
2 x 90 degree 76mm silicone elbows in your choice of colour - these will need adjusting to length during fitting.
2 x 90 degree 76 - 63mm reducing silicone elbows in your choice of colour.
2 x 63mm alloy joiners.
2 x 76mm alloy joiners.
1 x 76mm 250mm length of straight silicone hose in your choice of colour. This needs to be cut into 2 lengths of 125mm to go on the end tanks of the cooler.
10 x 70 - 90mm jubilee clips
2 x 50 - 70mm jubilee clips.

Hope that clears things up...

What changes would need to be made to this order of piping in order to retain the fogs with this cooler?

Although this is a stupid question, I'd just like clarification, do I need the intercooler centre pipe if I use a FMIC?

Thanks

 

[Scullies]

Just thinking outside the box here, so might be way off base.
What if you had to split the pipe work going to and leaving the intercooler into say 2x 35-40mm pipes. Would this have a postive or negative effect on the flow?
I havent looked at my S3 to see if its possible but there seems to be a lot of space from looking at pictures. I know its more work and not really a DIY for everyone, but a simple job for a fabricator.
It would allow you to keep the fog lights and increse the pipe work to 70-80mm.

Sorry MintyS3 for stealing your picture.

 

[sportstractor]

You would need 2x 58mm pipes to be equivalent to the flow of an 80mm pipe roughly, that's not taking into account the extra resistance you will get from bends and pipe wall, but that would be marginal on this scale.

 

[Westy]

Just thinking outside the box here, so might be way off base.
What if you had to split the pipe work going to and leaving the intercooler into say 2x 35-40mm pipes. Would this have a postive or negative effect on the flow?
I havent looked at my S3 to see if its possible but there seems to be a lot of space from looking at pictures. I know its more work and not really a DIY for everyone, but a simple job for a fabricator.
It would allow you to keep the fog lights and increse the pipe work to 70-80mm.

Sorry MintyS3 for stealing your picture.

There's already a solution for using the toyo core, keeping the fogs, and takin it to a fabricators. You just turn the core upside down. This has been done on a previous page on this thread and had no effect on flow either.

 

[Sam_]

Or get an AH fabs V2

 

[Sevv]

Or get an AH fabs V2

Sam your so happy with that cooler hope ill share your enthusiasm when i get mine

 

[Rosso TT]

Here's the welly cooler's aussie cousin.

Note the AEM nozzle.

Fitted perfectly behind the crash bar, only little acking on the under side.

Fitted as low as possible and also with this setup i can keep the head light washers.

I did make the 3 slots in the bar to get more flow to the cooler.

And here's the charge pipe to TB with map sensor wmi nozzle and dv relocated to cold side.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Here's the welly cooler's aussie cousin.

Note the AEM nozzle.

Fitted perfectly behind the crash bar, only little acking on the under side.

Fitted as low as possible and also with this setup i can keep the head light washers.

I did make the 3 slots in the bar to get more flow to the cooler.

And here's the charge pipe to TB with map sensor wmi nozzle and dv relocated to cold side.

Good work mate although I must point out that TT's are way different front end wise to the S3/A3 but does show what can be done.... there is a is a distinct lack of decent sized TT intercoolers... nice solution :thumbsup:

<tuffty/>

 

[Westy]

I like it Rosso but shouldn't the WMI nozzle be before the map sensor so it can calculate the cooler charge air?!

 

[Rosso TT]

I like it Rosso but shouldn't the WMI nozzle be before the map sensor so it can calculate the cooler charge air?!

Dear westy, i'm amazed as you had the engine of your car apart and not knowing that map sensor measures pressure.lol
With this intercooler i gained 10 g/s of flow, i get 210 g/s now and reduced IAT by an average of 10 C so now stays at 15C above amb temp.

 

[Westy]

Dear westy, i'm amazed as you had the engine of your car apart and not knowing that map sensor measures pressure.lol
With this intercooler i gained 10 g/s of flow, i get 210 g/s now and reduced IAT by an average of 10 C so now stays at 15C above amb temp.

Haha thanks mate

Mechanical work is a lot easier then it looks. I'm still learning about the way the ECU and all the sensors work together.

 

[Sam_]

What size is the standard map sensor pipe on the IC side? 60mm?

 

[<tuffty/>]

What size is the standard map sensor pipe on the IC side? 60mm?

Yeps...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

Cheers. Does it need an extension like your original design for when fitting the AH Fabs V2 cooler or could I get a standard 60mm 90 degree bend? Basically I'm just looking to replace the OE hose from map sensor pipe to the alloy 90 degree bend.

Currently I'll have this setup:

drivers side solid boost hose -> silicon upper hose -> alloy 90 -> silicon 90 -> ah fabs v2 -> silicon 90 -> alloy 90 -> OEM hose -> OEM map sensor -> silicon upper hose -> inlet.

Looking to replace the OEM hose in bold basically. Will a standard 60mm 90 (with ~50mm tails) be cool? Or do I need a little extension?

 

[<tuffty/>]

From what I remember when fitting the V2 to Barks S3 we just used the 60mm (may have even been 63mm but I can't remember) silicon 90 deg and clipped it straight on...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

So on the passenger side you just use two 90deg 63mm silicon bends and one 90deg alloy bend? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just looking to get all the parts together before hitting it. Would it be better to get 60mm or 63mm?

 

[<tuffty/>]

So on the passenger side you just use two 90deg 63mm silicon bends and one 90deg alloy bend? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just looking to get all the parts together before hitting it. Would it be better to get 60mm or 63mm?

From what I remember (it was a little while back...) I am fairly sure we used the following starting from the rubber charge pipe on the drivers side...

OEM rubber charge pipe > 90 deg alloy pipe > 90 deg silicon > FMIC inlet.... FMIC outlet > 90 deg silicon > 90 deg alloy pipe > OEM joiner > OEM MAP tube

I am fairly sure we used 63mm too... but IIRC we joined the 63mm alloy pipe to the OEM 60mm MAP tube joiner...

Sorry I can't be any more specific than that but based on previous experience and what I can remember thats how we did Barks V2 fitting..

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

So on the passenger side you just use two 90deg 63mm silicon bends and one 90deg alloy bend? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just looking to get all the parts together before hitting it. Would it be better to get 60mm or 63mm?

same if you wanna change the MAP sensor pipe you can always get the forge one available in 60 63mm so you can keep the 63mm pipes you want mate....Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

 

[Sam_]

Cool, well I'll attempt to fit this lot this weekend:

I know the passenger side won't quite be as I've mocked up, the MAF pipe will be in the middle, but still...

 

[Westy]

What's the extra hose that comes off the hose that will go on the TB?

 

[Sam_]

Cold side relocation for the recirc valve. I didn't plan it that way but I got some upper boost hoses cheap and figured while I was there, I'd fit them. Apparently it just makes the valve last longer between services. Makes sense having it recirc the cooled air anyway...