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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Welly, Sep 20, 2011.
is there any import tax on the manis you are importing mate?
They are using a loophole and getting around it using PayPal service ordering.
Ordered mine through PayPal direct with USA supplier with a code Sam gave me Thursday. They confirmed within a few hours, posted via FedEx and it will be with me on 1st feb. paid Â£197 after conversion for the mani.
It'll make sense when you wish to proceed. So far, so good...I hope it's a good part.
SAMs also set up a Facebook group. Join it for more discussion.
Received my manifold, downpipe and sports cat today, only 6 days after payment... Don't hesitate, get your order in through Sam!
Thats a relief. FedEx told me that the Mani will be with me tomorrow. Only ordered last Thursday myself! Great effort.
Got any pictures of the sports cat? Would love to de-cat but just can't be bothered with the hassle come MOT time!
Iv got friends who can get me round the MOT, but I was worried more about the sound, I'm told that the cat baffles the sound a bit. Here's the cat
Need to make up a shopping list to get this stuff fitted
Ok think im going to have to bite the bullet and get one. Are we talking mega hard to fit it myself with out taking the head off?
You'll need to drop the subframe to remove the DP then the turbo to get at the mani. I think it's a fair old squeeze and quite time consuming.
I done it with my cast Mani which admittedly has less room between the runners and it was a complete arse but I didn't have the transfer box in the way, if I was going to do it again I would definately take the head off
Can you get the downpipe in without moving the subframe if the head is off?
I only want to change the manifold as i have a DP bolted to my Hybrid K04 already surely it can be done from the top?
I would say it is possible I can undo mine which is different setup but simular by just removing the driver side drive shaft and with the head still on
Down pipe that is
If the head is off you shouldn't need to touch the subframe.
It might be possible to do with the cast mani but the tubular one is a fair bit bigger.
OK maybe i'll get it fitted instead
I think anything is possible but it can take a lot longer sometimes by removing less bits, but i don't really know how hard it would be as not experienced the xs power Mani but would have thought it would be very difficult to get to the lower nuts on the gearbox side as I pressume you will be leaving the turbo in situ?
I had to get most of mine from the bottom but I didn't even have a turbo to get in my way
Making a list chaps (lifted from Welty thread) of things il need to get it swapped over when removing the head...
- chain tensioner gaskets
- cam cover gasket
- sump sealant
- sump plug
- inlet manifold gasket
- turbo studs x3 and nuts?
- exh mani studs and nuts x13
- exh mani gasket
- water pump
- cambelt kit
- cambelt damper tensioner
- R8 cap - (fark off)
- turbo to downpipe gasket
- Cam seal x2
- 5L Oil
- G12 Coolant x2
- Cam cover studs x9
- Cam cover nuts x9
Reckon it's a wiser move getting all this from Audi, or are GSF any good? Please correct me if there's anything I don't need or anything iv forgotten?
lol at the R8 cap.
You want rods and if you're stripping all the head you might want to think about getting a large port head. Depends how far you want to go.
Not very far at all, just the bare minimum to get the manifold on and the downpipe on, with an fresh cambelt and water pump? So it is running without any leaks or bothers. Mines an AMK, or I presume that has the smaller ports? I'm not after too much power as that would require me having rods done, which I'm not willing to do, so no point chasing it. I'm only changing the manifold because mine is cracked
Fair play but if the head is coming off you might as well get them done or you can change your mani from underneath and leave the head where it is.
I thought it was a twat of a job if not removing the head? So it's simple enough to do from below? Cause that would save a fair bit in parts? I do have access to ramps
It'll be a hell of a lot cheaper if you dont need to replace any of the stuff on the above list. You'll have money to spare for that R8 cap you've always wanted
Lol, hell yea!
So my list will be more like this :
It's decided then, the head is staying on... For the time being any way
You can trim the list down some more unless your car is due a cambelt change?
- turbo studs x3 and nuts?
- exh mani gasket
- R8 cap
- turbo to downpipe gasket
Yeah, fairly sure cambelt is almost due.
its great to see happy customers
...and lets not forget we wouldn't even have got the products to this point without Welly's sterling efforts in the first place... and that he setup the original group buy discount...
yes welly did great. infact i would like to talk to him at some point hats off to him as he did all the hard work.
I'd be interested to try fitting a v2 manifold at some point to see how it differs from my V1.
Aside from Welly, has anyone else ever managed to get a V1 to fit properly? My turbo support bracket didn't line up perfectly so I had to bend it to get the bolt through.
Other than that, and Bills work with teh die grinder and strategic dent it went on OK really. Just hope it lasts.
it absolutely terrifies me how hot it gets, considering I'm just pottering around with hardly any boost.
Currently, I drive in constant fear that it's going to set on fire! even with all the extra heat shields I've added
Firstly, thanks Tuffty, and Sam.
To be honest people, the whole point of this was to take a products with potential, but issues, and make it serviceable.
XS power kit for Audi's did used to be synonymous with ill fitment, as we are all well aware. I remember seeing sooo many threads about it downpipes not fitting etc etc.
The upshot was that the products were good, well made, and well priced, but they were a ***** to fit, and required a lot of faffing which could be avoided by spending some extra dosh on a different product which did fit. I wanted to do was make products that had massive potential actually fit out of the box so that others could take advantage of them.
That seems now to be very much the case, and it's great to see so many people buying them and using them based on my past findings.
The whole manifold testing saga actually cost me the best part of Â£500 on consumables when all said and done. That said, if people buy, use, and get good results from the gear - money well spent.
That and the fact I bet JBS don't like me very much...
Get some results up!!
My modded V1 did about 5K of being spanked (you know how I drive) without issue. No shape change, no warpage. It was black as the ace of spades though when I took it off.
They do get hot, but they do also cool substantially quicker than the cast stuff, so there are pros and cons. I didn't have any issues with anything melting or anything like that. I guess it doesn't get any hotter than the cast, it's just higher up so more obvious hot hot it is.
its material thickness is why it lights up so well
some great vid of yours you posted on youtube I recall
Ahhhh, those were the days....
On a side note I have to change my downpipe gasket tonight - which will take about 5 minutes. Top mount FTW!!!
Also, makes me chuckle making 338 BHP and all I can see there is a mismatch of dodgy coil packs....
In contrast the the above video, this is a stock K04 manifold on the same turbo - equally glowy really.
lol - all in the name of product testing
Got quoted around Â£250 inc vat for this from Audi dealer, does this seem alright? Might try tps if they have a mail order service
Well done and thanks for your hard work!!
The K04 manifold market will be saturated by the time JBS 'release' one.....
Has anybody done a MOT test on the 200 sports cell ? The honeycombs on the sports cat from relentless seem larger than other sports cats ive seen. Also dont the americans use less quantities of precious metals inside the cat due to the petrol they use being slightly different to ours ?
Some quick googling suggests a 200 cell will be fine for UK MOT's but it may need a good thrash before hand to get it upto temp and operating at optimum performance.