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WMI Help needed. Lots of it please!

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by g60leigh, Mar 1, 2013.

  1. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Ok so basically I have taken a punt on a WMI kit that was cheap enough to give it a try.
    It's a Aquamist kit with a 806-052 race version pump. And has a brand new 806-288 pump loom.
    It has a boost pressure switch to activate it.
    I still need to source a tank for the water / meth.

    So you peeps who are lucky enough to already have it installed please can you give me some pointers and advice.

    I have had a search but I'm just finding posts debating if it is safe or not and the mix to run.

    The help I need is:

    1) does anyone have a wiring diagram for this loom as it hasn't come with one. (I have contacted Aquamist to see if they can supply one)

    2) where are you mounting the nozzle (AMK engine with FMIC)

    3) what size tanks are you running

    4) what boost pressure have you got yours set to activate.


    Thanks in advance :)
    #1
  2. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Hi mate,

    you can get a water tank from devils own.there expensive for what they are but i dont think anywhere else sells them.

    I run 50/50 deionised water and meth

    So to answer your other questions...
    1) does anyone have a wiring diagram for this loom as it hasn't come with one. (I have contacted Aquamist to see if they can supply one)

    2) where are you mounting the nozzle (AMK engine with FMIC) - mount it after the intercooler but before the map sensor.

    3) what size tanks are you running - I'd get a 4 quart tank if i was you. it doesnt last long when your hooning! lol

    4) what boost pressure have you got yours set to activate. - i have mine set at aroung 15psi, you dont really want to be using it when pulling off from lights and what not

    go onto cooling mist website, they have a diagram of how to fit.

    good luck!
    #2
  3. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Paradox1. The wiring on there doesn't match up to mine so hopefully aquamist will come threw with a diagram.

    Thanks for the pointers on all the other bits.
    #3
  4. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Your welcome buddy!

    Where are you mounting your tank and pump?

    As for the wiring, it was too hard...I have no electrical experience, if I can do it then anyone can.

    pos and nevgative from the pump. ground the negative to the chassis, positive wired to under the steering wheel to the live feed. I hooked up a switch so I can turn it on and off but its not that hard really, i'll try get some pics for you tomorrow
    #4
  5. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again mate.

    This is the loom I have

    [​IMG]

    As you can see there are a few extra wires.
    I am figuring that black - neutral. Red - live. Purple - switched live. Just need to work out which is boost control switch wires lol.
    #5
  6. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    😃
    Managed to get the wiring diagram

    [​IMG]

    Just got to source a tank and a check valve (for safety) and good to go.
    #6
  7. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Not sure where I'm mounting it yet. Probably in the boot but going to look at engine bay options.
    Also got to work out the best way to secure the injector when I see where it's getting attached
    #7
  8. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    If you can get pics that would be great mate. Including where you have mounted pump and tank and where / how you fixed the injector/nozzle
    👍
    #8
  9. coatesy
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    coatesy poking badgers with spoons

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    Check my build thread for any help if you can get any from it. If not I'm sure I can pop round
    #9
  10. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Will do mate. Getting my head around it now.
    #10
  11. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Leigh pm me your number and ull send u the pics my Photobucket doesn't like me today
    #11
  12. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    USRT sell throttle body spacers with a port built in? Might save your TB getting ruined. Although Paradox has said it needs to be before the map sensor. Why is that?
    #12
  13. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    The way I understand it Sam is that if you use the throttle body spacer plate,the water/meth doesn't get a chance to atomise as much as it would just after the intercooler
    #13
  14. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    True but I wonder how much it effects it in reality. Given the location of injectors etc. I suppose it depends on the spray pattern of the nozzle used. The guy I got my GTX off of ran one on his Golf R and it seems to be producing the power etc.
    #14
  15. AVLO
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    AVLO Active Member

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    i eventually plan on getting a wmi kit when i go hybrid but where is the best place to mount the tanks and run the lines?? i thought of mounting the tank in the sub compartment of the boot as i took my sub out due to a speaker upgrade but the issue with this would be where to route the injection lines? Are they safe to run through the car or are they safer routed under the car?

    matt
    #15
  16. phil miller
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    phil miller Member

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    Meth pipe is SAFE to run in the car, bear in mind that genuine VAG screen wash is upto 50% meth and we dont worry about that rear wash pipe running thro the car do we :)

    Dont run neat water, i did and Ron is in bits again :(
    #16
  17. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    Nozzle fitting position determines how effective WMI is at its two main advantages... cooling and knock control...
    Where Do I Position My Water Injection Nozzles

    Just after the FMIC is a relatively safe place to fit one as this tends to cool the intake charge effectively, adds a little octane boost and is mostly absorbed by the time it reaches the TB... in the article above position 4 is also a good place remembering to place this a suitable distance from the TB to ensure even distribution... the TB plates won't offer even distribution from what I can see...

    One thing to watch though is the spray cone... the TB plates by design have a deep nozzle hole and the nozzles don't screw in very deep.. this can mean the fan spray can hit the sides of the threaded hole and blob... this would be bad... IMO... I have also seen those crappy silicon hose fittings that allow you to fit a nozzle in a hose do the same thing...

    <tuffty/>
    #17
  18. phil miller
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    phil miller Member

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    my kit came with one of them, it was quickly put in the spare nut n bolt tub i have as imho its a bodge
    #18
  19. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    <tuffty/>
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 15, 2014
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  20. burns3
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    burns3 Member

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    Good video that tuffty but very bad in terms of the way it works. Not sure how welly installed the wmi kit on bumble (but hopes its not like that lol) but if its any help you can have a look at my setup leigh, just pm me as i'm free most of today.
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2013
    #20
  21. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    That looks like the nozzle/pump is buggered there is no pressure at all..certainly not 200 psi
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 15, 2014
    #21
  22. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    Pump was fine mate... he did a back to back on this...


    <tuffty/>
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 15, 2014
    #22
  23. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    I saw those vids when I was debating just plumbing the nozzle into a silicone pipe. For the sake of about £15 to an Ali pipe with a boss welded in it would be silly not to.

    Leigh, take a look on page 1 of my build thread as I've got an index now. There is a section on my WMI install with pics ;)
    #23
  24. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    I misplaced my ali boss what i got from bill, so i welded the nozzle directly on to some 63mm stainless pipe... spray pattern is very good
    #24
  25. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    When I fit mine I am looking to fit the nozzle somewhere closer to the TB rather than just out of the FMIC I think... had some good results from a couple of car we have done this too... the FMIC outlet is convenient as its normally the only place on most FMIC installations where there is a alloy pipe to fit a nozzle too.. mine is allot to the TB so have more scope to pick a location...

    <tuffty/>
    #25
  26. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to do a bench test before I instal it to check the spray pattern then work out best location to place the nozzle.

    Has anyone got any pics of the location and angle they have mounter theirs?

    Just need to sort out a water/meth tank and a check valve now.

    I'm thinking of using a mini beer keg as the water tank. Can anyone think of any reason this would be a bad idea?

    Cheers🍺
    #26
  27. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    Mines about 6 inch away from the TB, it seems to be a decent place
    #27
  28. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    normally not a good idea for the nozzle to point up to prevent against corrosion etc... normally fit within 90 degrees from the top to the side...

    <tuffty/>
    #28
  29. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Just a quick update if anyone following this.

    I have my system all wired in.
    Had to purchase a proper tank as my other ideas won't work out.

    All I need to do is t into boost pipe and set boost activation level.
    (Any suggestions on how to check what psi it kicks in at?)

    Fit nozzle into pipe work

    Fit and fill tank (4 quart devils own) when it arrives.

    Then all good to test.
    #29
  30. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    I hope it goes nice and smoothly for you mate, mine was a nightmare :banghead:
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  31. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Leigh, Mine boost is adjusted by a screw on the pressure gauge, I guess you can try seeing where it kicks in if you have a oost guage. I need to fit my boost guage to find out exaclty what psi it starts but its at around 3.5rpm on mine
    #31
  32. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Well had an all change on this.
    Sold the other kit and bought an AEM progressive kit

    Been on fitting it all up today. Went pretty well apart from one fault (so far)
    When I turn engine off its fine but when I take key out, after about 10 seconds the pump kicks into life and runs itself until I disconnect the earth.

    This AEM kit is activated from the negative. And has a permanent 12v live.

    I'm thinking its a bad earth.

    Anyone else come across similar with their kits?
    #32
  33. badger5
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    badger5 RIP S3dave Site Sponsor

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    nope
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  34. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Thats helpful......

    Get some pics up of your wiring, maybe its something obvious
    #34
  35. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    Have you wired it into the ignition feed in the drivers footwell?
    #35
  36. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Wiring is all hidden away.
    Going to have another look later on just to check all connections etc.
    #36
  37. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Perm live is from battery (pump and controller)
    Switched live is from a feed in passenger footwell.
    Earth to controller from chassis in passenger footwell
    Earth feed to pump is from orange wire from controller

    [​IMG]
    #37
  38. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    I'm pretty sure I ran all my wires to the connectors under the pedals in the drivers footwell. There's a perm feed and ignition feed there which saves you running wires into the engine bay and too the battery. So my pump only becomes live as soon as the ignition is live and goes off when the car is off. Might be worth a try.

    On page 1 of my thread I have an index and there's a page or two on how I fitted my AEM kit. Take a look, it migh be helpful.
    #38
  39. g60leigh
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    g60leigh Well-Known Member

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    Thanks mate will have a look.
    Already had the live feed through so just used that.
    Ran it at same time as piping for nozzle
    #39
  40. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    I would start by double checking all the wiring and testing for power when ign is on and off. Also test when the key is removed, as you can switch the ign off and the radio will still play until you remove the key. You can feel the spring action inside the key barrel cutting the power.
    if all is correct, maybe its the controller.
    #40

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