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whining noise 2.0 tdi

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by vw754, May 3, 2010.

  1. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [May 7, 2010]
    As we dont know anything about that engine setup, just a picture & seriously anyone looking at that pic would wonder what was what, then how would I/we know if any ideas any of us have to bounce of others including you, were already on that engine, maybe next time it would be prudent to remember this instead of silly comments as above, I'm trying to learn something here aswell as others from your experiences/research.

    Moving on, you said you'd removed the egr completely, also Lloyd today said you removed the whole egr system including the cooler & the solenoid valve block, so there was no catch can for the egr as such, could you please advise anything on this that may help us.

    My idea was (unknowing if you had done already of course) to not actually remove the egr from the car, just relocate it so it was still functional so no dash lights, then a catch can or some other way to vent the air through the egr system would catch the **** & the car would still think the egr was working perfectly normal as Allard today advised me you had dash lights popping up every so often, there quotes not mine, so maybe you could enlighten us if this was correct or not & what fix you did to counter this.

    I'm trying to achieve what you did with no dash lights, with the same benefits of the egr relocation etc & breather can.

    Ah I just had a closer look at that pic, I can now see the solenoid valve block bottom right, sneaky fecker, so did you block of the egr vacuum pipe to this or use it still but filter the gasses before entering the IM.

    You got anymore pics from different angles so I can work out a bit more.

    Thanks in advance.
    #41
  2. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [May 7, 2010]
    NHN . I wasn`t having a go at you so if you feel offended i am sorry as i didn`t intend to do so as i was just messing about.:friends:
    #42
  3. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [May 7, 2010]
    :beerchug: No worries, now cough up the info :lmfao:
    #43
  4. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [May 7, 2010]
    Right as far as the EGR is concerned there are two main ways of stopping the light comming on when the EGR has been removed.
    1 ) Get it mapped out like Jabbasport offer to do free of charge with thier EGR delete pipes.
    2 ) Turn the EGR down as far as possible on VAGCOM and drill a small hole ( 3-5mm ) in the blanking plate that is provided with the EGR delete pipe kit.
    Both Forge and Jabba sale EGR delete pipes for several different engines. i don`t know if either company has got about to designing a PD140 BKD delete pipe. Then there is also the Allard/EGRvalve/fuel efficient systems what ever they call themselfs delete pipes.
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  5. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [May 7, 2010]
    On PD cars you can either delete the EGR system and engine shut off valve or just delete the EGR.
    EGR and shut off valve deleted on my old engine. The EGR delete pipe has had a few censors fitted normally it is just a straight pipe with a boost bleed nipple.
    [​IMG]

    EGR deleted but keeping the shut off valve as on my new engine set-up which the engine has been modified again already.
    [​IMG]
    #45
  6. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [May 7, 2010]
    It is better if the car keeps the shut off valve on the inlet pipe as it will stop you car running if it starts to do something horrible like if a piston crackes and the oil in the sump catches fire the valve can stop the the fire as it will shut off the oxygen source. The engine will still be screwed but at least your car and maybe you don`t go up in a ball of flames as well at the same time....
    #46
  7. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [May 7, 2010]
    If you look at the pic of my new engine set up the catch can always plumbs into the top of the cracnk case where the breather pipe normally connects on to. Catch cans have nothing to do with the EGR in any way either through plumbing or working. The pipe from the top of the crank case goes into the catch can. catch cans needs something to filter the air as it goes through the can to remove the oil particles that are in the air blown out the top of the crank through pressure. Most good catch can have several metal gauzes or some type of internal filter in them like Llyods design which is very good
    http://www.egrvalve.co.uk/index.php?page=universal-crankcase-breather-kit . The cheap ebay rubbish tend not to have any filters and don`t really do much but just collect oil drips blown out of the cracnk case. Catch cans can be vented to air like my old one which is OK but the external can filter tends to get soaked in oil over time and drips over the engine plus you get oil fumes under the bonnet getting the engine etc slightly sticky. Some people just vent the cans exhaust fumes down a pipe under the car which again over time will start to drip unless the can has a very good filter. Next option is to vent the exhaust can air back into the inlet pipe as is done on my new engine. My new catch can is a Forge one which if plumbed back into the inlet system means no pressure in the can other then the flow through the filters so AMD are talking **** about it being pressurized.
    #47
  8. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 2, 2010]
    Thanks for the info btw & sorry Mikey havnt had a chance to bell you as yet mainly due to the PM with your number disappearing, strange, will pm again for it :)

    But quickly mate, which CAN you got now as couldnt see that kit on forge's site & I'm seeing fair bit of oil in the intake system which I can only assume is from the breather & I dont want another prob so thats a must & also I notice your BMC is thinner than the one I have now which I believe is your old one :) this ones tight but with some bending of metal brackets it fits, prefer 1 like yours, whats the model number mate?
    #48
  9. devonmikeyboy
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    devonmikeyboy As far from JBS as possible !

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    [Jun 3, 2010]
    The CDA filter was changed for one which was much longer but slightly thinner. It is designed for a much bigger engine so should flow more air easily. Will have to forage around to get the part number and get back to you. The catch can doesn`t look to be on Forges website any more so i guess they don`t make it any more.
    #49
  10. Blackie
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    Blackie Active Member

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    [Jun 3, 2010]
    I,ve taken your advice chaps & i have a brand new garrett unit ready to be fitted in the next couple of weeks.
    #50
  11. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 14, 2010]
    I spoke with Forge today Mikey & you're right it isnt about anymore, they have however offered to supply the same one for £100.

    What filter does yours use, does it come with 1 or did you mod the can aswell for better filtering?
    #51
  12. navnayyar
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    navnayyar Member

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    [Jun 14, 2010]
    Which one is this CDASP-02? its slightly longer than the CDASP-09, 6cm to be accurate :p Ive ordered the delete kit for both the EGR unit and the electronic flap control unit (electronic) and spoken to my local tunig company who said the can map out the light no probs. looking forward to getting my decreased MPG back up!
    #52
  13. kaz219
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    kaz219 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 15, 2010]
    I managed to blow my second turbo on a BKD engine - this was on a A3 i hired as my car was in the bodyshop lol

    Memoriess....

    Definitly change it before it pops as NHN said below as it saves ALOT of headache and the whine will just get louder then go pop! I just kept on driving mine and the siren got so loud that on the outside it sounded like a really high pitch whine and then after i came back from holiday, it just went pop.

    If it does go pop, DO NOT drive and stop where ever you are. I found that even though i just drove 2 car lengths, a fair bit of oil had emptied into the exhaust and the oil level was on minimum.

    There were lots of turbo contaminates in the pipes etc. and it was a massive job in the end and didnt help that we had to do it twice as my first turbo didnt turn up lol
    #53

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