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What's it like changing the exhaust manifold on an S3, she's a blowing.

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by jackpilk, Feb 18, 2012.

  1. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    As the title says I've got an exhaust leak from the manifold.

    If you've been in the same situation how have you gone about fixing the problem?

    Has anyone done this under the bonnet without taking the head off?

    Thanks
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  3. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    It can be done, but access is awful, you may need to "make" some special tools to access some of them.

    If you can drop the downpipe and turbo, you will have better access but tbh that's more work as pulling the head
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  4. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Didnt JimGrim do his recently without touching the head?
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  5. murran
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    murran Active Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    you sure the manifolds not cracked?
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  6. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    It was in at Audi recently for it's coils to be replaced so they gave it a complementary health check and it shows there was an exhaust leak on the manifold area. I've been looking at getting a new manifold and all necessary gasket to cure the leak as the manifolds are prone to failure.

    If it was just the gasket to the turbo exhaust side that's leaking is that a pain to change too?
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  7. murran
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    murran Active Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    where abouts are you? near sheffield?
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  8. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Exeter mate.
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  9. Jimgrim77
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    Jimgrim77 Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Correct but only because I went above and below on ramps. Dropped downpipe, removed turbo etc...as part of it. 6 hours to install I reckon in total.

    Really difficult to fit. How people have done without taking either head or bits from below is anyone's guess.

    Sam Bryant mate did without I have heard but not sure his name.

    It's very tight and I had to modify the heat shield too as it was rattling due to close proximity with new Mani which contacts and expands when under duress.

    Well worth doing though.
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  10. liquids3
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    liquids3 Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Id bet the turbo has a slight crack as wel,be prepared if you are changing the mani!
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  11. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    If the turbo does have a slight crack is that game over for the turbo?
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  12. slowcoach3
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    slowcoach3 Active Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Its certainly a good excuse to upgrade:icon_thumright: people CAN and HAVE ran with cracks in their turbos for ages though....But would you feel comfortable putting your foot down knowing its cracked?
    #11
  13. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    The upshot is that it's a right git of a job regardless of how you do it basically.

    I have changed so many now it's daft however I think that head off is the best way.

    Two reasons. You check check the condition of the engine's interior at the same time, and you also get a belt change into the bargain.

    Secondly, you can make sure that each manifold nut is done up to torque, and is firm and tight. This is not something that can be done easily when attacking it with the head on - a lot of the nuts are done up to 'I think that'll be alright' torque... Not good.
    #12
  14. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Whoa!!!! right... first things first....

    Establish where the blow is first... K04's typically blow the manifold/turbo gasket.... the crackes that generally happen tend not to play a major part in all of this as they crack regardless and can continue to be used in most cases...

    The manifold/head gasket rarely goes... never seen one in all the cars I have done... there is no need to advance to taking the manifole off for this...

    Changing the gasket for the mani/turbo is relatively easy... the 3 bolts are normally a cock and I have had to drill them out before so its advisable to get the correct socket for them (can't remember what it is off hand...)

    You will need to replace the bolts anyway as they will be stressed which is partially the reason why the gasket goes as the heat cycles and constant expansion/contraction stretches them a tad and loses clamping force on the gasket which then leads on to it blowing as it fractures from the more direct heat...

    Only use VAG/Audi gaskets when you replace them and make a note of the orientation of the gasket when you remove it as it only goes in the one way..

    <tuffty/>
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  15. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Thanks tuffty

    I will head to the dealers Tuesday to grab the bolts and the gasket.

    Anything else I will need apart from possibly a drill and some patience?
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  16. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    ...hope they come out easily and not need drilling... they are hard :)

    Undo them cold and spray lots of penetrating fluid on them and let it soak...

    Couple of other problem areas.... the downpipe/turbo gasket has been known to go and the flexi is candidate too... I would advise you look over the car yourself to determine where the blowing is coming from as Bill had a Leon Cupra R that had been to 2 SEAT dealers to identify a fault that turned out to be a split TIP... it had almost come away from the turbo it was that bad and both dealers missed it saying it was lambda's and MAF's and other such expensive bits... took pretty much seconds after hooking it up to the smoke machine to find the massive leak...

    Dealers ain't all that! :)

    Useful for parts though...

    <tuffty/>
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  17. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Well I ran the car earlier from cold so I had a good 30 seconds before I burnt my hands, so I felt around and it feels like it's coming from as close to the turbo as possible, if that makes any sense?
    The blowing is a lot more noticeable on cold start up, which no doubt is because it's at fast idle and it's revving slightly higher but then you can't really tell it's blowing when it drops down to normal idle.

    Would it be worth just replacing the mani to the turbo gasket first (because that's where I'm pretty sure the blowing is) and if that fails start looking at the other problem areas?
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  18. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    + Checked the TIP and that's all well and in place
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  19. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Sounds like the turbo/manifold gasket to me... will go quieter when warm as the heat expands the metal bits closing the gap up a bit...

    just change that one for now... its the easiest of the lot lol..

    <tuffty/>
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  20. 16Klappe
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    16Klappe Princess Clap.

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    If you get stuck then take it to Volkscraft in Exeter, good lads who will see you right :)
    #19
  21. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 19, 2012]
    Well hopefully it's that one, fingers crossed!

    Yes I've heard they know there stuff over there.
    Was thinking of a Revo map once I've fixed my never ending problems.
    #20
  22. jackpilk
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    jackpilk Member

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    [Feb 20, 2012]
    Well slight progress for anyone who's interested..

    Got the car on the ramp and can see someone got a bit excited and coated the downpipe gasket face with exhaust paste and so by the looks of it the manifold to exhaust gasket too :thumbsup:

    I'l be picking up the necessary parts for the job Wednesday and getting the garage to do it as the downpipe looks like a ball ache to get to.
    #21
  23. Holvi
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    Holvi New Member

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    [Jun 5, 2012]
    easy job!!
    (under the car)
    start by taking off the catalysator which is attached to the downpipe.
    the screw off the shoe which holds the downpipe to the chasis (with rubber)
    (bonnet)
    next you need to take off the 3 torx bolts which holds the turbo to manifold.
    then u need to unscrew 3 of those nuts which holds the downpipe to the turbo and the last nut under the car. (your arm enters between the right front wheel. then u can push down the turbo and get more space to unscrew the manifold.
    remember to stuck all of the holes of turbo!!. u might drop nuts and etc.
    u need to take the airbox of and all the hoses to be able to reach "easily" to the last 2 nuts on the right.
    i´ve have put all the nuts back by hand except higher nuts numbers 2 and 3 counting from your right when having your manifold in place..for those 2 i used he ratchet extension and tip of my fingers.. jejee i advise to buy new torx bolts for the manifold and before taking them off use penetrating oil.
    #22

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