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What oil ???
- Thread starter THE MONSTER
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Sometimes I wonder if Gaz is a troll when it comes to oil, not sure if he scrapes the internet in a quest to fight against popular opinion but either way my car will be drinking 5w40 Millers Nanodrive or 5w40 Castrol Edge (if I can't get Millers).
5w40 and 5w30 are both specified by Audi/VW with specified grades which we should all be putting in our cars, not going to go too in debth as it's been covered to death in this thread and others but a good quality 5w40 is always the better option.
5w40 and 5w30 are both specified by Audi/VW with specified grades which we should all be putting in our cars, not going to go too in debth as it's been covered to death in this thread and others but a good quality 5w40 is always the better option.
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No it isn't , both those oils don't contain the level of detergents and dispersants that the 504.00 507.00 LongLife oil contains very essential for a diesel with a working egr more so after the emissions software fix thus increased operation and soot getting in the engine oil .
The 5W40 is OK for a short while but both VW 502.00 505.01 and a racing ester marketed oil are 12 months 10K max .
The argument is that by using the LongLife oil which is a fraction thinner at 100°C almost a 40 grade but much thinner at cold despite the same 5W grade and warm up temps reducing drag thus increasing mpg is going to be in better shape towards the end of this interval and anyway the LongLife protects and prevents more in the first place , it's a win , win .
There is also proof LongLife contains the top group 5 ester oil basestock that the Millers Nanodrive has !
The people that don't understand / don't want to understand voice their opinion of me , but there are alot who get it including a veteran Nottingham indie who's VAG knowledge is second to none.
The 5W40 is OK for a short while but both VW 502.00 505.01 and a racing ester marketed oil are 12 months 10K max .
The argument is that by using the LongLife oil which is a fraction thinner at 100°C almost a 40 grade but much thinner at cold despite the same 5W grade and warm up temps reducing drag thus increasing mpg is going to be in better shape towards the end of this interval and anyway the LongLife protects and prevents more in the first place , it's a win , win .
There is also proof LongLife contains the top group 5 ester oil basestock that the Millers Nanodrive has !
The people that don't understand / don't want to understand voice their opinion of me , but there are alot who get it including a veteran Nottingham indie who's VAG knowledge is second to none.
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You've always got the blinkers on Gaz... Not actually willing to listen to what other people are saying. It makes you come across very self righteous and a bit patronising!
You're comment about 12 months/10k is absolutely irrelevant... As we've all said, if you were listening, REGULAR CHANGES is the key!
Yes, I will agree, 5w30 will offer better fuel economy... Give AF about fuel economy though!
Will you at least listen to and perhaps entertain the idea a good 5w40 will stick to a hot bearing inside a turbo better than it's 5w30 equivalent???.........
You're comment about 12 months/10k is absolutely irrelevant... As we've all said, if you were listening, REGULAR CHANGES is the key!
Yes, I will agree, 5w30 will offer better fuel economy... Give AF about fuel economy though!
Will you at least listen to and perhaps entertain the idea a good 5w40 will stick to a hot bearing inside a turbo better than it's 5w30 equivalent???.........
*Opens Popcorn bag*
All I want is for limit my (1.9PD) engine to its diet of one camshaft... Two would be... Pushing the boundaries... QMLL3 it is for me. Looks new still after 20k miles and 15 months.
Hehe.
Lifters are hydraulic aren’t they? I might try a nice 32 Grade hydraulic oil. Will be interesting. Lol.
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All I want is for limit my (1.9PD) engine to its diet of one camshaft... Two would be... Pushing the boundaries... QMLL3 it is for me. Looks new still after 20k miles and 15 months.
Hehe.
Lifters are hydraulic aren’t they? I might try a nice 32 Grade hydraulic oil. Will be interesting. Lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If Gaz wants to put thicker oil in he can put thicker oil in, quite like mine flowing 
Everything Gaz says makes him come across as a dodgy car salesman, last oil thread I remember him saying how a VW magazine journalist was writing about his oil theory's and I was thinking please let me know the magazine/author so I can avoid both of these like the plague.
Fair enough that you keep fighting the power Gaz but we just want a mute button for your posts on oil threads as they go against a universally understood logic no matter how many graphs you want to show or people you want to quote, I mean it's also quite commonly understood that people who are wrong quote a million things showing they're not but I digress.
Everything Gaz says makes him come across as a dodgy car salesman, last oil thread I remember him saying how a VW magazine journalist was writing about his oil theory's and I was thinking please let me know the magazine/author so I can avoid both of these like the plague.
Fair enough that you keep fighting the power Gaz but we just want a mute button for your posts on oil threads as they go against a universally understood logic no matter how many graphs you want to show or people you want to quote, I mean it's also quite commonly understood that people who are wrong quote a million things showing they're not but I digress.
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Again, you fail to acknowledge the application...
For lots of cold starts, pootling around, economy and granny driving - yes, 5w30 might be better.
For a remapped/tuned car that occasionally gets driven hard, and where oil temps are likely to regularly exceed 100 degrees by any amount - running 5w40 might be better
For Prawn, and his all out track car (which is still used on the road) - he has chosen a 10w50
I don't see you arguing with Prawn that he should be using a 5w30? . . I'd like to see you try though
For lots of cold starts, pootling around, economy and granny driving - yes, 5w30 might be better.
For a remapped/tuned car that occasionally gets driven hard, and where oil temps are likely to regularly exceed 100 degrees by any amount - running 5w40 might be better
For Prawn, and his all out track car (which is still used on the road) - he has chosen a 10w50
I don't see you arguing with Prawn that he should be using a 5w30? . . I'd like to see you try though
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"Rodney"? . . I have no idea what you're on about. . . . .
So are you saying that Prawn is fine to use a 10w50, but absolutely everyone else in the VW/Audi world will be better off with 5w30???
So are you saying that Prawn is fine to use a 10w50, but absolutely everyone else in the VW/Audi world will be better off with 5w30???
Gaz likes to cook his chips in it and have a bath with it too, the rest of the world suggests otherwise but Gaz knows best.
I recommend to the best of my knowledge to the particular application.
And I've seen how Prawn drives .
No blinkers here as I've often recommended Millers Nanodrive CFS NT+ .
And I've seen how Prawn drives .
No blinkers here as I've often recommended Millers Nanodrive CFS NT+ .
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You recommend to the best of your [narrow minded] knowledge, which happens to suit your particular application. Which is admittedly also applicable to 90% of Audi drivers out there. . . Apart from Prawn of course who is ASN heritage and can do what he wants.
The fact of the matter is though - most of the mapped/tuned cars on this forum will regularly see peak oil temps higher than Pawns car ever will due to the lack of cooling mods... In which case 5w40 will give higher oil pressure for the engine to operate properly, and offer better protection....
How can you deny that!?...
The fact of the matter is though - most of the mapped/tuned cars on this forum will regularly see peak oil temps higher than Pawns car ever will due to the lack of cooling mods... In which case 5w40 will give higher oil pressure for the engine to operate properly, and offer better protection....
How can you deny that!?...
Why can't you accept that a higher quality 5W30 out performs a medium quality 5W40 separated by just one or two CentiStokes ?
Does a 0W30 Millers Nanodrive CFS NT+ protect more than a 502.00 505.01 ?
Does a 0W30 Millers Nanodrive CFS NT+ protect more than a 502.00 505.01 ?
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Now your changing the question, higher/lower quality is debatable (and which higher/lower quality oils!? Most mentioned in this thread meet VW specs so it's hard for anyone to really debate the use of a 5w30 or 5w40 that meets the specs Audi uses) and where on this thread has anyone considered this 0w30 oil which I presume doesn't meet VW specs but I really can't be bothered looking into this as the OP is sorted and your making your own questions.
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Because I'm not a stubborn know it all, I will fully agree and accept that a high quality 5W30 will out perform a medium/low quality 5w40 in most areas... That was never the debate though!
My point is - Talking like for like quality, a 5w40 will suit some peoples application better than 5w30... Are you willing to accept that?
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My last source for VAG's own Quantum 5W-30 (504/507) Longlife is now selling Castrol's posh stuff at a very competitive price for 5 litres (often only 4 litres elsewhere). Very good service from this firm, virtually next day courier and nicely packaged.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I do , like for like , but the actual viscosity units have to be of significant difference , also I recommend 5W40 etc Ester racing oil depending on the application .
The whole 5W40 502.00 505.01 Vs 5W30 504.00 507.00 ( 5W40 Castrol Edge / Old Castrol Quantum Platinium Vs 5W30 Castrol Edge / Old Castrol Quantum LongLife III - the key was the miniscule high temp difference
( found on product data sheets ) of just 1 centiStokes as a 'grade' is just too crude a measurement .
Technically the difference could be as great as 7 centiStokes between a 30 and 40 but with the 30 being 12 and the 40 being 13 the 40 isn't enough to be a difference plus it's a lesser oil .
Yon fuchs ester 5w40 from opie.
Then a bigger filter to increase total capacity, with long T5 i can get almost 5l from 3.5...
No doubt some won't understand what "above conventional standards" means.
Then a bigger filter to increase total capacity, with long T5 i can get almost 5l from 3.5...
No doubt some won't understand what "above conventional standards" means.
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i use the cheapest oil i can find and change it lots.
I would rather change the cheap oil every 5k, than run some fancy **** long life oil for 20k.
Last lot i bought was 50quid for 20L delivered, 505.01 spec.
I'm happy, and my engines made it to 180k, so its doing well too.
I would rather change the cheap oil every 5k, than run some fancy **** long life oil for 20k.
Last lot i bought was 50quid for 20L delivered, 505.01 spec.
I'm happy, and my engines made it to 180k, so its doing well too.
I too buy cheap oil and change regularly , but I use the higher quality LongLife oil as designated by VW who's oil spec it is by a German laboratory .
Nothing fancy about higher quality oil basestocks and higher additive package concentration .
Nothing fancy about higher quality oil basestocks and higher additive package concentration .
Also remember there isn't really such a thing as a "long life oil filter" as they start to become less efficient at around 8,000 miles. Ideally, long life oil regimes should change the filter after 1-year 
Lost the will to live halfway through page one.. I use Castrol Fully synthetic 5/30 because Costco sell it and it’s cheap.. and I change it every 6 months.
Life’s too short to argue about oil ***...
Life’s too short to argue about oil ***...
Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w-40 Synthetic Engine Oil.
I have run my car on this from 78,000 Miles to now 203426 Miles. I recommend this oil.
I have run my car on this from 78,000 Miles to now 203426 Miles. I recommend this oil.
