What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

Been thinking the same with mine but may hold out another year due to a new kitchen and Disneyland holiday expense this year
 
Removed the front 2 Arch Liner screws. I needed a tiny short wrench with T20 (not usual T25) screw end as the gap between my 20 inch wheels and the screw was a couple of centimetres.

Seems to have done the job as my tyres were catching going over bumps..even quote slow.
 
DrStrange said:
Removed the front 2 Arch Liner screws. I needed a tiny short wrench with T20 (not usual T25) screw end as the gap between my 20 inch wheels and the screw was a couple of centimetres.

Seems to have done the job as my tyres were catching going over bumps..even quote slow.
Click to expand...
My screws catch on full lock as well I needed do this
 
Adamwagg said:
My screws catch on full lock as well I needed do this
Click to expand...

You're planning on leaving the B6 so soon. *shedding a tear* lol

Yes, worth doing if it catches at all but not sure how it catches by simply turning the wheel. Are you lowered a lot?
 
DrStrange said:
You're planning on leaving the B6 so soon. *shedding a tear* lol

Yes, worth doing if it catches at all but not sure how it catches by simply turning the wheel. Are you lowered a lot?
Click to expand...
Doubt I willed rid as I fall in love with it every time I see it haha.yeah front is low mate and catches only on hard lock
 
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DrStrange said:
Removed the front 2 Arch Liner screws. I needed a tiny short wrench with T20 (not usual T25) screw end as the gap between my 20 inch wheels and the screw was a couple of centimetres.

Seems to have done the job as my tyres were catching going over bumps..even quote slow.
Click to expand...
I tried to do this once, but it couldn't come off, so thought it couldn't be removed...!
The screw came out fine, but that lump it is holding, sat tight.. Did you tap it off or??
 
Wahlstrom said:
I tried to do this once, but it couldn't come off, so thought it couldn't be removed...!
The screw came out fine, but that lump it is holding, sat tight.. Did you tap it off or??
Click to expand...

So as I visually saw it, the 2 screws hold the arch 'liners' firmly in place and protrude from the underside of the front arches.

The actual screws come out quite easily but yes, there is also a lump of plastic that is still left behind so to speak. I was thinking of cutting them off as they are similar to the thickness of a standard plastic washer. Ended up leaving them in place as the removal of the screws where all i needed to rid.
 
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Hasa3 said:
Tried to listen to where the rattling noise is coming from in the exhaust system. I think it's coming from the catalytic . Sounds like something metal/like coins rattling when accelerator pushed down.

Also got code

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06C-909-559-ASN.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 909 559 H HW: 8E0 909 059
Component: 3.0L V6/5V G 0003
Coding: 0011711
Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 3A7BD46A76FF94CE9A7-517A

1 Fault Found:
16815 - Warm Up Catalyst; Bank 2
P0431 - 001 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
Readiness: 0000 0000
I guess that's the cat, don't know if plan for milltek/BCS is ruined yet

Oh and this arrived a few days ago
549c3d7c017fe15b04d76ef3f30ab629.jpg


S line rear for avant b6, with black decal sticker

Thinking of painting it my self, but I may paint the door blades and skirts first to see how 'good' I can DIY paint
Click to expand...
Just had a go at respraying some door blades. Sanded down, then halfords plastic primer, sanded down, paint from halfords (made up while you wait). Then some 2k laquer from eBay.

They look ****. Orange peel like the surface of the moon.

Total cost
£8.99 primer
£15.99 paint
£14.99 two cans of laquer
£4.99 wet and dry sand paper.

Better off taking it to a professional.
 
Ralphthemouth said:
Just had a go at respraying some door blades. Sanded down, then halfords plastic primer, sanded down, paint from halfords (made up while you wait). Then some 2k laquer from eBay.

They look ****. Orange peel like the surface of the moon.

Total cost
£8.99 primer
£15.99 paint
£14.99 two cans of laquer
£4.99 wet and dry sand paper.

Better off taking it to a professional.
Click to expand...
Ahh really? I thought of doing the door blades my self too, thought if I mess it up, shouldn't be too hard to correct haha!! "surface of the moon"

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Ralphthemouth said:
Just had a go at respraying some door blades. Sanded down, then halfords plastic primer, sanded down, paint from halfords (made up while you wait). Then some 2k laquer from eBay.

They look ****. Orange peel like the surface of the moon.

Total cost
£8.99 primer
£15.99 paint
£14.99 two cans of laquer
£4.99 wet and dry sand paper.

Better off taking it to a professional.
Click to expand...
Painted mine 
 

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New wheels fitted
 

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Made up mate now s4 trim and get my twin exhaust out the back
 
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Will keep a eye out for when you get it all fitted, should look great with them wheels.I been looking for new alloys for mine but can't settle on a set yet.lol
 
I know we're there are some nice advice 19" alloys need one tyre though for £350 mint
 
Sanded down the lip of the wheels, because I was too lazy when painting them...
Only need to clear coat the barrel it self inside.. And then polish the h*** out of the lip with the recently bought polishing gear..

And reassemble.. And get the tires fitted...

Hopefully before the summer is over

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Thanks.. I'm still getting used to the black inside... But I think it will be fine once on the car...
 
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Fitted new wing. Its of ebay. Great paintjob. Great fit. £115 incl postage
DSC 00181
DSC 00231
DSC 00211

Headlight not fixed in properly so sticking out a bit in the picture.
 
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Final two wheels painted black, and all four clear coated..
Now the lips need polishing...
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They should be on the car next week...
 
Wahlstrom said:
Was it a hard job??
Click to expand...


This was my first ever try at a thing like that. So after watching YouTube and doing some read up i started today at 9 am. Finished at 4Pm incl rain breaks and one trip to Screwfix(needed angled torx as there is one screw between wing and bumper with like 1 inch space between them) It wasn't difficult. Used this video . Its pretty accurate. I had two differences. First was my side skirt(Votex) is fastened also from the bottom. And where it shows to undo deadening foam i have in this space also some sort of a tank that restricted access to wing screws behind. But all sorted new wing is on and i can sleep at night now without rust nightmares.
 
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One almost down, three to go:
398bc468b7e829e1cac59db82ea2d5a9.jpg


Tested the buffing pads and compounds... Now I know what to do with the remaining...
 
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