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What do you think? Scrappy crank sensor (speed sensor)

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by cjsuk, May 14, 2012.

  1. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    Right I went and got vagcom (whoo hooo) and it reads that the speed sensor has a fault (crank position sensor).

    As i have been made redundant (again) money is tight so I today went to the local scrappy, found an AUM engine, and took the sensor.

    Got it home cleaned it as it was soooooooo filthy and the little dot was covered in stuck on ****, but now its nice and clean I also stuck some grease on the o ring.

    This is a pic of my work that dot was under 1mm of ****.
    [​IMG]


    I just want your opinion on weather or not I should replace mine with a scrappy one?, whats the chances of it being a failed one?

    The engine I took it off was from a golf which I seen been brought in a few weeks ago with the engine running and no lights on dash if that sways opinion lol.

    Cheers
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  2. bengal
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    bengal Member

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    You'll have to try it and find out, I got a maf from a scrappy over a year ago and that is still going strong. This place is very good and does offer a months warranty on all parts.

    It was a third of the price of a recon one too.

    I personally see nothing wrong as long as the price difference is worth it. Although most new or recon'ed parts do have longer warranty but that can be hit and miss from my experience.
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  3. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    If its failed the engine won''t start... end..

    If you engine starts ok then it should fine... what was the exact code? is there are more than one codes it could be and will help determine if its the actual sensor or that the fault is the result of something else...

    <tuffty/>
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  4. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    I know I love scrappy parts! Got loads in the past for other cars. I actually got my 007p from the same engine a bit back £15 just had to clean and grease and fit.

    It's just with it been a sensor, suppose it will either work or not lol.
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  5. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    The fault code is 10606 engine speed sensor G28 intermittent no signal

    Whats happening is: every now and again it takes ages to start and when it does the EPC light comes on n idles at 1200 rpm, but when I turn egnition off and on again its fine.

    MiL is not on and thats the only fault to come up even after reset, the code shows after the long start and EPC LIght.

    Hope that made sense? I have the mother of all migraines!

    I also have a boost leak (vagcom verified) but I cant see that having and bearing on the sensor problem.

    Cheers
    Last edited: May 14, 2012
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  6. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    hummm worth changing the sensor then I guess to see if it goes away... not a code I recognise format wise but a quick search and found this..
    16706/P0322/000802 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
    Possible Symptoms

    Engine shuts off
    Engine doesn't start
    Speedometer inoperative
    Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes

    Possible Causes

    Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
    Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

    Possible Solutions

    Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

    Special Notes

    The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.

    <tuffty/>
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  7. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    Reet Ill have a go sometime this week and let you know.
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  8. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Where is the speed sensor located?curious
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  9. Customboy
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    Customboy Member

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    give it a try mate like the dr pepper advert says 'whats the worse that can happen" lol god bless the great scrappys!!
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  10. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    The hole bottom right of the block in this picture...
    [​IMG]

    Essentially to the right of the oil filter...

    <tuffty/>
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  11. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    Dr pepper n scrapyards its the future! lol
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  12. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    As tufty says........but bear in mind with the engine fitted, it's an arse to do due to room, best time to change one if you need to would be at an oil filter change for better access .

    ooh look at me giving advice lol
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  13. Paradox1
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    Paradox1 Active Member

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    Cheers lads,just trying to future proof myself so I don't have to open another thread with everyone input in the simplest form :D
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  14. bengal
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    bengal Member

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    You can't argue with that :laugh:.

    You've done me a favour with this thread, I'm going to take my crank sensor off now and give it a clean as it's probably filled with **** like the one you got from the scrappy. Not that it's giving me any trouble, although it did fail to fire up the other day which could be down to this.
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  15. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    It was a good find, finding that lol, keep going down to see if theres any new ones in wiv silicone pipes lol, cheapskate I am!

    If your gonna clean it as with any sensor dont be too brute with it, the build up of **** on the sensor I got took me by suprise and litrally was about 1mm thick and baked on solid.

    The way i got it off without causing any possable damage was to get the bit that goes in to the engine to point up, spray carb cleaner on it let it do its job, then spray again which will blow a layer of **** off, and repeat again, then use a cotton bud wipe and more carb cleaner and just leep repeating untill there's a shiney metallic dot in the middle.
    #15
  16. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    Been a bit but.......... I did it!

    It was a tw@ to get to and a bit fiddley and tight but it's done and ye olde engine starts so I must have done it right lol.

    Anyway gonna reset the light via vagcom and see how long I can drive now without a light on lol.

    Ill post here again in a couple of weeks to let you know if its cured (maybe in a couple of hours if it dosent like it lol)

    :)
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  17. murran
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    murran Active Member

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    on these engines the engine can run and start with a failed crank sensor, if its a premenant fault, the ecu sustitutes the crank sensor and can start/run just off the cam sensor! but you will get the symtoms described earlier on in this thread (ie down on power, more cranks to start etc.).

    for future reference if you have a crank sensor fault but the engine still runs and want to prove the crank sensor isnt working then unplug the cam sensor while its ticking over. if the engine cuts out you know the crank sensor isnt working. if it makes no difference its working atm.
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  18. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    ahhh cheers for that, its been noted for future reference.

    I have now done around 100 miles and the car is better, hasnt stalled or tried to stall and starting the car has felt stronger (if you know what I mean).
    #18
  19. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    Light is back on! but its not the crank sensor (phew) just lean on bank one which i am led to beleive is most likeley a boost leak somewhere, it came up before I cleared it for the crank sensor.
    #19

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