Waterless coolant.... Anyone try it?

[Andrew@A.L.D]

As above

I know Audi are anal and always say G13 only.

If you don't know about it just Google/YouTube it.

 

[Alex C]

just watched this video. The hot compression test after he has run it up to 265°F with the waterless coolant is some 15psi lower than the initial cold test?

I'd assumed, perhaps wrongly, that a hot compression test should give a higher value?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Ed China has used it

<tuffty/>

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Anyone us it on there S3 I mean

 

[Jenno007]

I had never heard of it before I YouTube'd it today. It looks very promising! After a quick google I saw someone mention that the waterpump requires some pressure to operate correctly, I'm not sure how correct this is though.

On a sidenote, at what water temperature should I begin to worry about my S3? On my liquid gauge I've seen 100 degrees before (the temp gauge in the dash didn't move off 90).

 

[JimmyO]

I have built a new engine for my car and been looking into it, was for a VW VR6. But i've gone off the idea for a few reasons:

1) Can be flammable if say a pipe bursts and it spills onto a hot exhaust manifold
2) Expensive, You would have to carry some around with you, you can't top up with water in an emergency
3) Been told the proper mix of G13 is fine, (its worked just fine on my car for the last 20yrs)
4) Its doesn't make the engine run cooler and the waterless stuff doesn't transfer heat as well as water. So your cooling system is actually less efficient. Its also thicker than water/coolant mix so more effort to push around the system.

There are some good sides to it, but i ended up reaching the opinion if you have a race car and are having problems it can help the situation, but on a normal road car, stick to coolant/water at the correct ratio. I've got no idea what would happen if your head gasket went and this waterless stuff got into the combustion chamber.

 

[<tuffty/>]

...On my liquid gauge I've seen 100 degrees before (the temp gauge in the dash didn't move off 90).

This is normal... the gauge doesn't move until over 105/110 degrees to prevent worriers from getting excited thinking their car is about to overheat... fans kick in at 96d egrees and high speed at 100ish... once beyond a certain threshold then the gauge reacts and eventually you get a warning on the DIS if its in the danger zone

<tuffty/>

 

[Jenno007]

This is normal... the gauge doesn't move until over 105/110 degrees to prevent worriers from getting excited thinking their car is about to overheat... fans kick in at 96d egrees and high speed at 100ish... once beyond a certain threshold then the gauge reacts and eventually you get a warning on the DIS if its in the danger zone

<tuffty/>

Yeah I think I've seen you say somewhere else before that it is normal for the gauge to stay on 90 even when it's a little bit more, BUT when would you start to worry? 100? 105?

 

[Alex C]

when the gauge on the dash says its overheating

 

[<tuffty/>]

Yeah I think I've seen you say somewhere else before that it is normal for the gauge to stay on 90 even when it's a little bit more, BUT when would you start to worry? 100? 105?

.

when the gauge on the dash says its overheating

<tuffty/>

 

[Jenno007]

What temperature does this happen? I just want to know how close I am with 100 degrees

 

[Alex C]

What temperature does this happen?

.

the gauge doesn't move until over 105/110 degrees

why are you so concerned? are you worried that your engine is overheating?

 

[<tuffty/>]

What temperature does this happen? I just want to know how close I am with 100 degrees

You are exactly the reason VAG designed the temp gauge not to go over 90 degrees until it was necessary too

Its fine dude...

<tuffty/>

 

[badger5]

. But i've gone off the idea for a few reasons:

1) Can be flammable if say a pipe bursts and it spills onto a hot exhaust manifold

G12 is also flammable with an ign source.

ask tuffty

want cooler running fit lower temp stat and make sure fans work properly and adjust operating temp switch to suit.

 

[<tuffty/>]

G12 is also flammable with an ign source.

ask tuffty

Trying to forget!! LOL

<tuffty/>

 

[Jenno007]

.



why are you so concerned? are you worried that your engine is overheating?

If the gauge started moving at 100 degrees (suggesting that it is overheating at this temp) I would be worried, but since its not until 105 I'm not so worried. However it's going to be 39 degrees tomorrow so I want to know how close my engine gets to overheating

 

[Jenno007]

You are exactly the reason VAG designed the temp gauge not to go over 90 degrees until it was necessary too

Its fine dude...

<tuffty/>

I think you've misunderstood me. I wasn't worried that my car was overheating otherwise the gauge would be moving.. I wanted to know when the gauge will start to move (and how close I've got to that at 100 degrees)

Also Badger thanks for the tips to reduce the temp

 

[JimmyO]

Trying to forget!! LOL

<tuffty/>

What happened?

I've had my head to matrix pipe split and that dumped coolant all over exhaust, got a lot of steam but no fire.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

G12 is also flammable with an ign source.

ask tuffty

want cooler running fit lower temp stat and make sure fans work properly and adjust operating temp switch to suit.

Got a link to how to adjust temp switch?

 

[<tuffty/>]

I think you've misunderstood me. I wasn't worried that my car was overheating otherwise the gauge would be moving.. I wanted to know when the gauge will start to move (and how close I've got to that at 100 degrees)

Also Badger thanks for the tips to reduce the temp

I don't know the exact figure and have never seen it happen... I just know that it does... soz

<tuffty/>

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

I take it the adjustments are done on vagcom? Bill

 

[<tuffty/>]

What happened?

I've had my head to matrix pipe split and that dumped coolant all over exhaust, got a lot of steam but no fire.

Was on a dyno day... torturous run on an insane ramp rte got things a bit hot and the little bit of flexi coolant pipe I used on the hard line to the block suffered and burst... spat coolant all over the downpipe that was glowing red and the exhaust wrap soaked it up like a wick keeping the fire going for a bit... two CO2 extinguishers later it was still going so used a water one and that did the trick...

Amazingly there was no fire damage at all...

<tuffty/>

 

[Scullies]

What is so "special" or "important" about G12 or G13?

I have been using BP Isocool and with a direnza radiator and a standard 87deg thermostat. My car has never over heated. Even on a 50 deg summers day sitting in stop go traffic for an hour.

 

[Clart]

Was on a dyno day... torturous run on an insane ramp rte got things a bit hot and the little bit of flexi coolant pipe I used on the hard line to the block suffered and burst... spat coolant all over the downpipe that was glowing red and the exhaust wrap soaked it up like a wick keeping the fire going for a bit... two CO2 extinguishers later it was still going so used a water one and that did the trick...

Amazingly there was no fire damage at all...

<tuffty/>

Any footage?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Any footage?

Narp....

<tuffty/>

 

[superkarl]

I was speaking about this with a friend the other day.
If you go to halfords they list the appropriate coolant for different cars.
All I established was there's silica free coolant and not, that's it.
Possibly to do with seals?

 

[desertstorm]

I looked into this a few years ago and came to the conclusion that it's not worth the extra money and that if I changed the G12 every 4-5 years I wouldn't have any issues with corrosion.
A well maintained factory cooling system usually more than does the job. Problems with corrosion usually happen when the inhibitor packages break down because it's not changed or a leak occurs in the system and water is used to replace it diluting the coolant down.
Searching on line for the MSDS sheet for Evans coolant is seems it's main ingredients are around 68% ethylene glycol and 30% propylene glycol and a few % for other corrosion inhibitors etc. So it looks to me like it's pretty much concentrated anti freeze that they are using. They do seem to admit that the engine temperatures will be higher and also the oil temperatures as the specific heat capacity is lower than traditional coolant. I was struggling to see how some of the MPG improvements they claim could happen when it occured to me that with the engine probably getting hotter faster and running hotter with thinner oil this would give you an increase in mpg.
The cost of materials and labor of converting an existing engine if you have to use the prep fluid is quite high compared with some G12 / G13 coolant every 5 years. If you had a coolant leak apart from the fact it would be expensive you couldn't top up with water you would need to carry some spare coolant with you all the while.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EVANS-WAT...-Ltrs-AUTO-COOL-180-7-Ltrs-PREP-/251282959837

Considering what is actually in this the price is really expensive, probably to support all the advertising. If it was so good then I believe manufacturers would be using it, somebody like Ferrari , Aston Martin , Roll Royce etc wouldn't have an issue using it or something similar if it was that good.

 

[JimmyO]

There's a good video on youtube of Jay Leno talking about, he loves the stuff and has used it for something like 16yrs.

 

[badger5]

I take it the adjustments are done on vagcom? Bill

nope, external stat switch. i dont know how oe bit can be adjusted I would fit external adjustable stat switch instead of the low/high speed factory rad mounted one

 

[rupe]

What is so "special" or "important" about G12 or G13?

I have been using BP Isocool and with a direnza radiator and a standard 87deg thermostat. My car has never over heated. Even on a 50 deg summers day sitting in stop go traffic for an hour.

Not sure if theirs anything special about them as such, but if you fancy a read this page has some good info about the various types used in vw/audi's http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_fluid/vw_coolant_engine_fluid.shtml