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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by tony696, Mar 15, 2011.
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Right well i'm home and currently cracking on with installing my AEM kit. Going to do all the wiring and controller stuff then come back to the pump and tank location.
Can I get away with T'ing in the controllers boost hose into the boost guage as this is already fed into the cabin?
Dont forget fkn pics......
And don't do a fkn yut!!
I have pics galore David.
Just running the wires to the boot now. I'll upload some in a bit.
Nice one! I'd also like to see some pic's.
Ok, here's a few pics so far. This is a bigger job then it sounds!
I started off with installing the LED as I knew where I wanted to put it and it was nice and easy to do.
Off with the drivers side lower trim:
Piano trim from around the ESP button removed:
Left blanking button removed:
LED fitted to blanking button:
It then set about installing the controller. I'd seen Stacey install his into drivers side cubby hole and I liked it so decided to do the same:
I wont go into too much detail as it's fairly straight forward but you need to have the PSI settings and TEST button facing out so they're accessible:
I then separated all the wires that needed to be run to the back of the car:
Brown and White go to the tank for the level sensor and Orange goes to the pump.
I started running this down the drivers side:
The rear seats were as far as the wire would reach so I stopped there and put the trim all back. I can get the wire easily when I get some more wire.
I then cut into the line to my boost gauge and T'd the controllers boost hose into it:
I'm now in need of a few pointers for wiring in the bits n bobs and running in the tubing for the pump.
For anyone that has fitted a WMI kit can you help me with the following:
- Place on the passenger side to run in the tubing for the nozzle
- Battery positive by the drivers side fuse box
- Battery positive in the rear (if one exists) for pump
- Battery ground near drivers fuse box
- +12V power to turn on the whole system near the drivers fuse box. Would like it to come on when ignition is turned
Normally down where the wiring loom runs, trim panel off and cable tie it securely as it tends to pulse a bit and can make a noise... so opposite of the controller wiring essentially... normally feed up through the grommet that everyone uses for an amp cable in the scuttle but the pollen filter.... through the trunking and out by the side of the battery tray...
Under the dash there are a load of wiring points below the relays some are red and one is yellow... these use studs and nuts to fix the terminals on... the red one with the fattest feed is perm positive
Postive is fed from the same term (as I pointed out earlier in your thread) as the rest from the front... do not attempt to take this feed from anywhere else as it could end in tears...
There is a cluster of earths somewhere near the steering column
Yellow labelled terminal below the relays
Cheers Tuffty I should be able to finish this tomorrow now as soon as I get some more wire. I'm just not happy on putting the pump and tank in the boot now
Are you cheating by running the cables under the rear seat lol
Gotta admit i will more than likely one day move mine to the engine bay and relocate the battery or get a smaller battery was really toying with the idea but that required more time and money which at the time i did not have
personally, I love the idea of having it all in the back!
i've got NO weight in the back of mine, so any weight I remove from now on needs to be from the front (battery) and any weight I put back needs to be in the back (WMI kit, smaller battery)
I'm looking at the AEM 5 gallon tank for my install, looks a perfect size to sit on the left on the boot floor.
Can't wait to see how you get on on the 3rd Westy!
Tank and pump need to be close to each other... pump will work more efficiently this way and is mentioned in all the instructions for any kit I have ever fitted...
Boot is an obvious choice due to it having a lot of space... battery relocation is and idea yeah but make sure you use at least 50mm2 cable for the run to the front as 'amplifier' cable is no where near good enough and the volts drop will be too much on the starter current draw...
Good progress westy, i am going to put my battery in the boot BMW stylee...i cant do with all that shizzle in the boot..
Think I'm just going to cut the blue and green cables (for optional extras) and the black and red (don't need to be so long) then piggy back them onto the wires that are too short. Cowboy stylee
Power wires need to be rated for 15/20 amp mate... the blue/green aren't...
No I was just going to piggy back them onto the brown, white and orange that have fallen short in my rear seats. All the wire that comes out the controller all looks the same grade.
I can't believe the kit doesn't have enough wire.
It doesn't mate sadly... sorry should have mentioned... every time I have fitted one I have had to extend the wires...
What a pain in the ass!
Thanks for the heads up. Think I would have wired this all in very very wrong if it wasn't for your help.
I'd better get the old man (he's an electrician) to bring me home some wire.
Your making great progress here Westy, pics are fantastic, hopefully when you get the extra wire you need that you get the job completed
before you go to Bills on 3rd Jan.
When i eventually do mine , it's going under my scuttle panel I think. Keep it up Westy
I looked at all the space in the scuttle panel but you need to keep the pump close to the bottle and also below the bottle so I'm not too sure how practical that would be.
Mark has an A4 Neil
Surely even the A4 doesn't have enough room in the scuttle for the bottle and the pump?!
I ended up fitting my bottle in the boot like everyone else
Ive still not sure about the pump at the moment. I want it out of sight.
Won't get time to finish the wiring and installation until after Xmas now
Could you not put it on the back of your seats and make a nice little box for it all?
I don't want to loose any more boot space then I have to but you know me, I just want an easy life so might just fit it next to the bottle!
I have removed my space saver and going to fabricate an alloy tank for the water/meth.. the pump will sit in there too along with a VAG 12v tyre pump and puncture kit like they fit to newer VAGs..
Loads of room
I've been looking for tanks to fit in the wheel well but they're difficult to find. If you manage to find anything please let me know.
Yes mate that was what I wanted to do but was having difficulty finding anything so gave up if a suitable tank comes availBle then I will be changing very quickly î
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.745595,0.697890
I wanted a wheel well tank too, but nothing suitable seems to exist, unless you get an LPG tank and somehow convert it
The other issue you have with a tank in the wheel well is getting the pump low enough, as it has to be gravity fed doesn't it?
Can't you just buy any old wheel well tank and slap the pump on to it?
Something like this?
Gives you loads of room for the pump as well.
Where are they sold Scott? Bet they aren't cheap!
I'm drilling all my fixings into the side panel that covers the sub. That way I can buy a new one if I ever get round to moving the tank/pump.
They are not cheap mate but perfect for your use I think with a bit moding.
BMW and Merc made theses. I don't think any other makers have, I've not seen any.
Westy/Tuffty or any one, can you get me the measurements of your spare wheel well please?
I'll happly look for wheel well tank.
I've seen some plastic ones with built in pumps but not sure if the sizes are correct.
Personally I would be asking someone like AH Fabs of Forge mate... they can produce you an alloy tank to suit your needs... Forge has made similar kit for Bill in the past..
I have also been looking at other tank solutions...
ALLOY FUEL TANK-RACE RALLY -AUTOGRASS-KIT CAR | eBay
This is a 2 gallon tank but no reason why they can't make a 1 gallon and mod the outlets to suit..
I'm just thinking about the cost Tuffty. A nice made to measure tank will cost a hell of a lot more then a generic plastic one.
You get 44litre plastic bio-diesel tanks that's designed for spare wheel wells.
Not sure if it will fit your well and is 44 litres to big?
The one in the eBay listing is just over 50 quid mate... 2 gallons will last you a while but I can't imagine they would charge much to make a 1 gallon version...
Might chase this myself as I need to do something with mine in the new year..