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warning triangle on dash

Discussion in 'A4/A4 cabriolet/S4 forum(B6 chassis)' started by 1wheelonly, Sep 14, 2008.

  1. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    my warning triangle is staying on all the time, i know it stays on for a while after locking but now its not,had a fiddle with vagcom last night,got up this morning and she was flat,had to jump start it, just outside having a fag and noticed the triangle still lit up after locking her up over two hours ago.
    i put the flat battery down to sitting in the car last night for ages with the ignition on,now thinking its the hazard switch.
    anyone got any ideas?
    cheers
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  3. electricracer
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    electricracer Member

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    i have replaced a few of these in the past they do go faulty, from what i remember the indicator relay is built into the back of them
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  4. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    do you think this is the cause of my flat battery?

    indicators and hazards all seem to be working fine.
    #3
  5. quattrojames
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    quattrojames Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    Do you mean the Orange warning triangle in the DIS in the centre of the dash? Or the red hazard warning light switch in the middle of the car?
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  6. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    the red hazard warning light switch in the middle of the car
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  7. evilscotsman
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    evilscotsman Space Cowboy

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    i might be wrong but I dont think mine ever goes out......isnt that normal anyway?

    Maybe its like the dog, every time I look at it - its awake. I never notice it sleeping, although I suppose it does, but it just waits till we're not looking.....
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  8. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 14, 2008]
    cheers evil, made me giggle.
    if hes that awake, could you ask him if your hazard light switch is lit up all the time.
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  9. evilscotsman
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    evilscotsman Space Cowboy

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    [Sep 15, 2008]
    LOL will check for ya :)
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  10. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 15, 2008]
    electricracer said he thought that these control the indicators, i have removed the switch and my indicators still work fine.
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  11. quattrojames
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    quattrojames Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Sep 15, 2008]
    I know mine stays on when I leave the car, I don't know how long for though. But it definately does go out as when I see the car at night the only thing illuminated is the alarm Led in the door.

    My dog on the other hand is so deeply asleep she is snoring ......
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  12. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 15, 2008]
    does anyone know or anyones dog know what the cause is of the problem and if this is causing my flat battery.
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  13. quattrojames
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    quattrojames Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    I decided I would watch my hazard switch after I locked the car until it went out, luckily it only took 30 seconds!
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  14. gjwell
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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    Maybe a longwinded approach but put meter between the car and the battery and measure the current being drawn when every thing is off and locked (make sure your meter is man enough for the job though). That should tell you if it’s the car draining the battery or a faulty battery or alternator. If there is a sufficient current being drawn pull the fuses one by one and see which circuit is drawing the current. My brother had a similar problem with his A4 and it looks like the comfort unit isn’t powering off. His courtesy light won’t turn off by itself either. He hasn’t fixed his yet but the next port of call is check the wiring in the door harness or replace the comfort unit.
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  15. 1210tech
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    1210tech Four Ring Fanatic

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    i don't know if you have read this thread: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=53355 but i am having a similar problem.

    i replaced what i thought was a faulty battery at the weekend and then my alarm beeper started going off all the time unless i left the car unlocked.
    i went out to my car this morning and the brand new battery was flat as a pancake but i noticed that when the engine was running the interior light would flash on & off on its own accord.
    i decided to check the convenience module (CCU) and each time the interior light came on there was what sounded like an electrical shorting sound coming from the CCU.

    basically, i have found a replacement CCU and have ordered it, should be here be the end of the week, so once i have fitted & coded it i will let you know what the outcome is.
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  16. evilscotsman
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    evilscotsman Space Cowboy

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    my stereo a few weeks ago, started staying lit dimly but not coming on properly, just red display and lights. I finally got round to pulling the fuse for it. That put it off at last obviously, and when re-inserted, worked perfectly afterwards.

    It would be an idea to pull the fuses one by one that supply everything that works with the ignition off, thats interior light, immob, sidelights, stereo, and brake lights - there may be more but cant think of any right now. Anything that still works with the keys out can be the culprit first, remember that if you switch off then hit the indicator stalk getting out the sidelights for that side will be illuminated and may flatten the battery.

    To measure what is being drawn from the battery when the car is off, you need a multimeter that measures DC amps and set on the 20A range, the test leads often need moved to another socket on the meter as the AMPS range is a virtual short circuit so NEVER EVER put a meter ACROSS the battery when its set to AMPS, you will blow the meter to bits and **** your pants in the process.

    Now, the negative lead is the safest to remove from the battery, and you need to connect the meter in SERIES with the battery, that is meter BLACK lead to BATTERY NEGATIVE and meter RED lead to CAR NEGATIVE (BLACK) Cable that you detached. When you do this, there may be a small spark, as the ECU draws about 2 Amps when power is applied, then settles to about 1.6A after about 20 secs, then may drop even lower (< 1A) after 5 minutes as the ECU goes to hibernation mode. If the meter shows a higher reading than 2 Amps (2000 mA if thats the scaling on your meter) then something is drawing excessive current. Thats when you need to pull selected fuses one by one until the current drops away to normal (< 2A) - then you have found the faulty circuit.

    To test the alternator charging circuit, charge the battery, fit it, start the engine and connect the meter across the battery terminals (REMEMBER TO SET THE METER TO DC VOLTS 20V RANGE AND PUT THE LEADS BACK TO THE NORMAL V/OHMS SOCKETS FIRST!!!) - get a reliable connection, and put all the lights on, full beams, rear demister, fogs etc and check that the voltage is between 13.8V and 14.8v at 2,500 RPM

    Any lower than 13.8v and the alternator rectifier pack is buggered or the fan belt is very loose, or the battery has a buckled cell (It wouldn't take a charge on a home charger if the battery is faulty like this or low on water/acid) - if its higher than 14.8v then the voltage regulator is buggered, and its part of the alternator on Bosch units, and a seperate black lump on the rear of Lucas / AC Delco units.

    DON'T TOP UP OR EVEN OPEN A BATTERY WHILST IT IS CHARGING, IN THE HOUSE OR ON THE CAR! The sulphuric acid and hydrogen gases present are extremely dangerous whilst charging!

    To check a battery's individual cells, assuming its not a sealed type, remove all caps and while the car is off or the battery is disconnected, place the meter on 20V DC scale again, connect the black meter lead to the NEG terminal, then dip the RED meter lead into each cell's liquid one at a time, working away from the NEG end, or measure each pair of liquid filled holes next to each other. There are 6 holes representing 6 cells x 2v each, making 12v (roughly) so any hole that measures less than 2v to its neighbour is bad and will make the battery seem ok measured overall (10v say, but it wont charge properly or give any useful capacity.

    Hope this is clear and helps mate, any more clarification needed just ask.

    You cant get a shock from touching a car battery terminals even both at the same time as the voltage is way too low to feel, but if you short it out with a low resistance conductor like metal or wire then it will dump massive amounts of current into the short with a loud BANG - approx 400 AMPS, which will vapourise a wire or meter wrongly connected.

    :)
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  17. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    cheers for all your help guys.
    evil,had a mate round tonight and basicly did what you described and it looks like ive got a dead cell,banged another battery on that said mate had and gave her a bit of a charge,seems ok at the moment but all will be revealed in the morning.
    thanks for your help and advise and to all the guys above, got to give this battery back so if alls well,what am i looking at for a new one?
    hazard warning light now off,i had my auto lights programmed on ready for welcome home lighting to be retro fitted,seems it didnt like it, do you think the two are related?
    #16
  18. evilscotsman
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    evilscotsman Space Cowboy

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    Sweet! The old cell voltage trick is a dead cert for finding buggered ones, impossible to do any other way. Glad it worked mate, Im sure you have cracked it.

    The auto lights programming shouldnt have done anything bad, but I would leave it off until the control unit is fitted, maybe the unused output on the ECU for that module is grounded internally by the ECU when not in use, wouldnt be the first time ive seen that on a control output design, prevents spurious floating voltages on an unterminated output causing weird behaviour so its maybe not a good idea to have it enabled till you have the hardware fitted.

    Also, the battery voltage would have been low anyway from the dead cell which causes freaky behaviour from an ECU as it needs steady clean power of a minimum voltage or it starts doing some weird ****.

    Apart from that I think you have the problem solved. A new battery will be the thick end of £80 but check out a motor factor like brown brothers, Lucas or the likes, not halfrauds, they charge £100+ and ask if it can be supplied charged, or it'll be a 24 hour charge at home before you can use it, they are usually shipped dead for safety (well at about 7v actually so they dont go into deep-discharge and refuse to work but thats another story...)

    :)
    #17
  19. 1wheelonly
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    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 16, 2008]
    thanks again evil, been a great help, had a look already for batteries online hoping for the thin end of 50 quid but no chance,like you said more around 80-90 mark.

    ps: tell the dog were all sorted it can sleep now!!!!

    :yahoo:
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  20. evilscotsman
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    evilscotsman Space Cowboy

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    [Sep 17, 2008]
    nae problem mate, glad to help! :)

    If its tight for cash at the mo you could get one from a scrappie, but worth checking the cells the same way before taking it, would only be 10 to 15 quid tho, might get you going till payday?
    #19
  21. Xeon
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    Xeon New Member

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    [Apr 18, 2012]
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  22. saxonblue
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    [Apr 18, 2012]
    i had a 51reg a4 2.0se that had exactly the same problem with the hazard warning light, or red triangle of death as i called it, it would flatten my battery in about 5 hours, and that was a good battery,
    vagcom came up with all sorts from door locks, to radio, to alarm, the list was endless, i got a power drain of 1.7 amps,

    i took off the locks, GOOD spray with wd40, a good clean and a wax based lube not a grease based 1, put them on, then did a re test.and re set everything,
    locks disaperd off vagcom, and the power drain went down to 1.00 amps???????

    messing with the cd player next witch was fitted BADLY BY A SO CALLED PRO!! took the amps down to 0.6 but the light stayd ona and the amps went up again, then the bloody thing went flat , but this time it took about 2 days,

    vagcom told me all the same things as it did at first, but this time i did find a blue tooth phone kit thing , just under the dash, this had a battery of its owne, and it was flat, i took this off and the car was fine for a good while, it did go flat againe, but i then traded it in for my cab so i dont what happend after that,,,

    but, i would look at your locks, and give them a good clean and lube,
    maybe replace the things if you have to, i was told by a bloke from audi (over the phone and i cant give his name and witch audi dealer it was or he might shoot me, and i dont live too far away from Leeds...woops)
    that the red triangle stays on to indicate a power drain, or problem with the driver side lock????? his words not mine...
    #21
  23. Xeon
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    Xeon New Member

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    [Apr 19, 2012]
    Which locks are you talking about here? how can I clean it? Also what is the model of your car? my car is 2002 Audi A4 B6. Please give me details of how to clean the locks. But do you think it is still a possibility because I have never had a lock issue before??

    thanks a lot

    #22
  24. stu_m
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    stu_m Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 19, 2012]
    Have you tried the simple things like lock the car and see if all the doors lock? Sorry if its been mentioned I haven't read the full thread!
    #23
  25. Xeon
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    Xeon New Member

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    [Apr 19, 2012]
    I have tried it. I dont notice anything going wrong with the locks nor the alarms. Does sunroof have to do with this? The latest thing I did last week was cleaning the sunroof which I hadn't opened in almost two years. Since then the sunroof started to move by itself while I was driving. Many people said that it's a common issue with Audi so I wasn't too worried about it after all. I also noticed that the left speaker of the audio system started to go on and off once in a while. Are they really related??


    #24

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