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WANTED: N/S front suspension upright

Jason.s May 9, 2011

  1. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Basically my hub has stripped 3 of its threads. Not sure if they can be tapped but a new hub and bearing is going to cost me 80quid on trade. Seeing as the uprights are such a pain in the arse to get off due to siezed bolts and so on im not sure if i`ll be able to do it on the drive and with the tools i have.

    If i can get it off i can get the new hub/bearing pressed in for nothing but if i cant get the upright off then A, i dont want to drive it with 2 bolts in the wheel and B, even at staff rate i cant really afford the labour as even in the workshop its a pain to take it all apart.

    Ones on ebay arent suitable as far as i can see so im asking on here if anyone has one laying around. If it has a bearing in it or not doesnt matter. If it does and its in decent nick then better as i dont have to pay 80quid for new bits.

    Needs to be the left hand side, 75mm upright fitted to the following engine codes: AFN, AHL,AHU,ADR,AEB,AFY,AFF,AHH

    Need one fairly desperately :(
     
  2. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    I had a crack at the pinch bolts on Shed the other day and got them off without too much trouble.

    First one i removed the nut, stuck a breaker bar on and twisted it back and forward and it broke free, then i just hammered it out. Second one snapped, so i packed some washers together under the nut, and tightened the nut against the hub, which acted like a puller and slowly drew it out. Had to stop half way and add a big nut as a spacer as you run out of threads otherwise, but it worked quite well and both of them are now out.

    TBH theres no point fitting a used one, even if you do get one you're going to have to remove your existing upright anyway (which if you cant do yourself your still in the same position of being unable to afford the workshop to do it...), and it makes sense to fit a new bearing regardless when your at that stage too.

    If all else fails, you can drop the upper mounting plate and damper out along with the upright, and then drill out the siezed bolt.

    Go get stuck in!
     
  3. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Hmm yeah know what you`re saying..

    Will have a bash tonight.

    The joys of spacers without longer bolts although the others have been fine, rears have been on since last september without problem but i think they have more threads to play with than the fronts which have been on about a month now. I have longer bolts now but a bit too late. Especially as it could have been a lot worse as the wheel came off the hub whilst i was driving. Thankfully only at about 15mph as i was pulling over to see what the racket was. Pulled the lip of the arch out, carved up the inside of my newly painted wheels and now gonna cost me a fair few quid. If i`d have gone the other way home i`d have been doing 70/80 and i may not be typing this lol
     
  4. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    If you'd read my "Our new 1.8TQS" post you'd have noticed i discovered this problem a couple weeks ago.

    The stock bolts are only just long enough to fully engage on all 6 threads of the wheel hub. Fit any spacer at all and you no longer have sufficient location.

    The rears on a FWD have the disk and hub integrated, giving you 6-7mm extra length as you dont have the thickness of the brake disk spacing the hub away from the wheel.
     
  5. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Yeah i did read that.

    Got 6mm longer bolts now anyway.

    If the bolts are stuck in solid when i try tonight then im going to basically pull out the whole thing and bring that into work with me tomorrow with all the arms, shock, top mounting attached.
     
  6. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    Try the nut trick i mentioned above. Lots of people seem to have success with it.
     
  7. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    This is how it came out in the end. Didnt take that long really.

    [​IMG]

    Damage to the wheel...I`ve sanded it back and resprayed them again so its not as bad as it was. It also ripped the outer wheel weights off.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    On a lighter note added the longer wheel bolts. Nice and shiny to replace the manky old ones.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    yey

    You didnt try the pinch bolt then?
     
  9. Broken Byzan

    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User quattro Audi A4

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    couldn't you have rethreaded the hub as i assume you only ripped the first few out.

    m14 x 1.5 iirc
     
  10. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Yeah i tried it. Nut came off fine. Bolt was well and truly stuck in there. Didnt want to put too much force on it as on one attempt i felt the bolt twist a little asthough it was going to snap so gave up and took the whole thing out. Much easier.

    I did consider retapping the hub but phoning up everyone we use at work and looking about the cheapest sets with that size were about 60quid so for a bit extra i thought i might aswell replace it all plus i didnt know if it was able to be rethreaded.
     
  11. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    Get the bolt changed while its apart, or you'll regret it when the arms fail!
     
  12. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Aye i may get them to do it while its in the workshop. We keep loads of bolts and nuts here just for that job as they`re so common lol
     
  13. Jason.s

    Jason.s Active Member

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    Well its all done :)

    It took a big hammer and lots of angle grinder action to get the top bolt out lol. So i never would have managed it at home.

    Took about a tonne of pressure on the press to get the old bearing out. Put plenty of copper slip on the pinch bolt for when the arms get done in the future. I know its not just surface wear and cracks to look for in the arms and not just if it passes MOT but for 110k they`re in surprisingly good condition.
     

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