W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%
  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%

  • Total voters
    75
Nice one mate :) tried to get mine in the same position but didnt have enough room, yours looks like it fits perfectly
 
Wooooohoooooo!!!!!

Freds back in the game! :)

Good work mate, I'm impressed that there's room above the rad pack to pass the pipes through the front panel. I might look into that for mine, I want to relocate it at some point.

Cheers mate. Its mm perfect as the back of the grill just touches the cooler at the top. I drilled out the slam panel so I could run the shortest most direct hose route possible and it worked out nicely.

It should get good airflow behind the 4 rings and hopefully won't impede the air to the rad much.
 
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me and fred got the cores seperately for a bargain price.Then he got all the fittings from one place i believe, its documented in his thread somewhere.

Sorry fred im bored and thought i may aswell answer for you.

By any chance do you guys have the measurements of the cooler? I been looking at these options as they seem lower and longer.

this one has 6an fittings
Cxracing Universal Performance 10 Row Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler BMW | eBay

this one has 10an fittings
Mishimoto Universal 10 Row Oil Cooler Mmoc 10 | eBay
 
You don't want it massive anyway. It'll never get warm in the winter. Guy I know has to tape up the cooler on his gt4 and now cerbera so it gets up to temp in colder weather.
 
Sandwich plates are thermostatic jase, so cooler only opens up once its up to temp, well, 80odd degrees. Temp would probably rise a good 10 above that at least with use regardless of ambient.

Be good if there was an accurate way of fred measuring his temps on a long experimental drive. Do some cruising, see how it sits, then some hooning and see what happens.



Scullies, if you want me to measure my core i can. But like westy says its 13row. I believe it was an oem replacement for some old mg or morgan or something wasnt it westy??
 
Sandwich plates are thermostatic jase, so cooler only opens up once its up to temp, well, 80odd degrees. Temp would probably rise a good 10 above that at least with use regardless of ambient.

Be good if there was an accurate way of fred measuring his temps on a long experimental drive. Do some cruising, see how it sits, then some hooning and see what happens.



Scullies, if you want me to measure my core i can. But like westy says its 13row. I believe it was an oem replacement for some old mg or morgan or something wasnt it westy??

It was an MG core from some classic but it's identicle to the mocal 13 row cores.

It's a real shame the sandwich plate didn't have a hole to take a temp gauge as I'd have fitted one. Tam has a seperate sandwich plate just for his temp gauge and was seeing 120+ degrees on track!
 
Is it ok for you to have a measure karlos as mine was to tight to fit there :(

Pretty sure you will be able to log oilvtemps with vcds as can pull up oil temps with the liquid guage?

Pretty sure theres a spare M10 fine take off on the oil filter housing if your keen on a seperate gauge ;)

Top work though mate as this will definately being the temps down on track
 
Is it ok for you to have a measure karlos as mine was to tight to fit there :(

Pretty sure you will be able to log oilvtemps with vcds as can pull up oil temps with the liquid guage?

Pretty sure theres a spare M10 fine take off on the oil filter housing if your keen on a seperate gauge ;)

Top work though mate as this will definately being the temps down on track

I'm done with oil for another 6 months. Might take a look at it next service. I would like a gauge just to see the cooler working but it's a bit I an invisible mod really as there's no real performance gains from it, just oil that doesn't degrade so fast.

As for fitting, there's a fair bit of room above the cooler to be able to raise it but I had to set it as close to the rad as I could (about 5mm between them) to get it behind the grill. It should get decent airflow there definitely.
 
I think its drfinately the best place for airflow and where I aim to get one if possible? May have to mount mine like prawn in the passanger smic location or get a shorter and wider one as my 13 row seemed to tight

I know what you mean as a forgetable mod as should just work and not have to think about it again

Did you keep the oem one in to aid warming the oil up?
 
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Is it ok for you to have a measure karlos as mine was to tight to fit there :(

Pretty sure you will be able to log oilvtemps with vcds as can pull up oil temps with the liquid guage?

Pretty sure theres a spare M10 fine take off on the oil filter housing if your keen on a seperate gauge ;)

Top work though mate as this will definately being the temps down on track

+1 on the measurements if you dont mind.
I had a look at the 13 row mocal on ebay and its supposed to be 330mm (L) x 130mm (H) - thats total measurements.

The 10 row I was looking at is also 330mm (L) but they have different heights.
6an is 76mm (H)
10an is almost 100mm (H)

Do you know where the oil temp sensor is on the engine for the liquid gauge to pick up its signal?

I used the top fitting on the oil filter housing for a temp sensor, then had a T fitting on the turbo oil feed fitting in the housing, that had an oil pressure sensor and the turbo oil feed fitted to it. OEM oil sensor in original location.
BT engine has an oil temp sensor fitted into the oil drain plug.
 
Stace, remember that the position and size of your FMIC will pretty much govern how much space you have for the oil cooler to sit on top.

I did leave the OEM cooler in place as there was loads of room for the sandwich plate and filter. The OEM cooler will do the initial work and the front mounted cooler is there for when the oil gets above 82 degrees.

Scullies, I think VCDS reads oil temp from a sensor in the sump so it's not as accurate a reading but still helpful..... I wonder if oil temp was one o the things that can be displayed on the climate control. I'll find out.
 
Stace, remember that the position and size of your FMIC will pretty much govern how much space you have for the oil cooler to sit on top.
this is a good point. Me and westy have welly coolers. a core like the AH v2 might restrict what you can fit above.


i think you can only access water temp on the climate control. id like a pressure gauge taken off my oil filter housing port.
i wonder if you there is 2 in 1 type fitting/gauge. that would be awesome
 
On the oil filter housing theres a M10 x 1 hole that currently will have a plug in it....some have 2 spare ports

Sorry for the poor quality pic ;)

20130603_094012_zpsc0607061.jpg
 
Check the link i posted.
Its the BDM s3 race car. Tfsi with a 1.8t oil filter housing on it. Notice the adapter between the two.

But yeh thats a good point stace, ive no idea where the tfsi oil feed is. I guess we couldnt use those then
 
It just looks like a normal 1.8t filter housing with the adaptor plate in between....could always drill and tap for another take off as ive got 2 spare ports on mine for when I decide on a brand of gauges ;)

5CEA980D-6E69-480A-AE58-7A6E11E599CD-6502-0000084A1ADBB232.jpg
 
Does the oil cooler make mush difference guys how much would it cost all together for the parts
 
Does the oil cooler make mush difference guys how much would it cost all together for the parts

I've done a fair bit of reading about the benefits of an oil cooler and although it's a bit of an invisible mod in terms of no real performance gains it will still be a big help. The engine components need oil to keep everything lubricated and protected. The oil cooler prevents oil getting too hot where it starts to break down and loose it's protective characteristics.

I did also read an article (can't find link now) that mentioned the oil being used to cool piston crowns on turbo engines and that slight performance gains have been seen with oil coolers as the cooling effect is greater and therefore doesn't require extra fueling to aid it.
 
Thanks westy and prawn I am going to pay the nurburgring a visit in the next year other than that no track days.
i think I just want this for pease of mind and that its there if I ever need it lol my oil temp goes to about 94 degrees now on my liquid gauge on a very hot day. Ill be buying bit by bit for this think till I've got the lot.

also I carnt find the guy on eBay u got your bits and bobs off westy
 
Thanks westy and prawn I am going to pay the nurburgring a visit in the next year other than that no track days.
i think I just want this for pease of mind and that its there if I ever need it lol my oil temp goes to about 94 degrees now on my liquid gauge on a very hot day. Ill be buying bit by bit for this think till I've got the lot.

also I carnt find the guy on eBay u got your bits and bobs off westy

Search eBay for "oil cooler fittings" and you can miss it. All his listings have a bright green "MLR" in the bottom right of the items display picture.
 
Love you Karl.

Time to go looking for gauges.

I'd recommend SPA or Stack. Go decent or don't bother. SPA come with proper sensors and looms. Quality is second to none. They do nice dual gauges that are reasonable. I just got a boost and fuel pressure one to fit when I can be ***** to attack the dash.
 
If you're going just for oil temp then a liquid gauge would fit the bill wouldn't it? I remember you saying about the reading being from the sump but this is usually the case. I only bought the SPA as the liquid gauge isn't as accurate in terms of boost over ~21psi from what I've read and doesn't do fuel pressure. Shame it doesn't do oil pressure either.
 
If you're going just for oil temp then a liquid gauge would fit the bill wouldn't it? I remember you saying about the reading being from the sump but this is usually the case. I only bought the SPA as the liquid gauge isn't as accurate in terms of boost over ~21psi from what I've read and doesn't do fuel pressure. Shame it doesn't do oil pressure either.

Even though I work with IT and am fond of a gadget or two i'm very old school when it comes to gauges in a car. I like the liquid and it serves a great purpose but as I have full VCDS I like to see plain readings for boost an temps.

If I buy an oil temp gauge I'll get the same as my boost gauge (SW gauge) as its very OE looking and I'll get a double A pillar pod then pop my side vent back in as that's currently where the boost gauge lives.
 
I covered 120 miles yesterday to Silverstone and back as I went to the Porsche Experience Centre for an IT expo. On the way home I started to experience strange lumpy performance on part throttle. If I planted my foot it would run fine so I kind of ruled out an ignition problem (coils or wiring). Another issue that crossed my mind was WMI! Could it have been pooling and causing issues on part throttle where there isn't as strong a flow of air through the FMIC hoses?!

Anyway, I've had a little nose around this morning. Cleaned my air filter, swapped my 2.0T TFSI coils for 1.8T coils just in case, checked my boost pipes for oil and they were clean. Then I found this... I thought my 007p DV could do with a greasing as I've not done it since my remap last November.

Firstly, I was surprised to see a blue spring inside the DV as it used to be yellow! I assume the tuner popped this in there. Anyway I removed the piston and saw some wear on one side:

null_zps0dbdff44.jpg


null_zps40e27c98.jpg


This is the clearest pic:

null_zps4178e350.jpg


There were metal shavings from this wear that I've now cleaned up but I think I'll need a new piston! As you can see, it's the old piston anyway so it might be a good idea to upgrade.

Now I thought I'd ask for a little advise. Firstly, should I be running a blue spring with 21psi? Secondly, due to the wear shown on the piston do you think the case of the DV will also have wear that will effect the seal? Maybe I should purchase a full new unit?

Anyway I hope this is the cause of my part throttle issues...
 
Thanks. How do you work out the unassisted clamping force required for the DV? Also do you think i should get a full new unit or jus thet piston?

You don't really need to... pressure should be equalised on boost, like the OE dv (which holds 30PSI without leaking) the spring is simply a return spring..

Get a new piston (service kit comes with new style piston, new o-rings and grease) and a green spring and all will be well again... I run a yellow in my supersize but also use a shim to cut the internal volume down of the piston making it more responsive... new o-ring pistons don't have the volume of the old ones so no need in this case..

<tuffty/>
 

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