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vibration from the rear

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by dnLcal, Mar 26, 2010.

  1. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    It seems like one thing after another with this car!

    Been working away for a the past 3 weeks but before i went i fitted a new diff to the car as the old one was knackered.

    Got back yesterday to finally take it for a test drive and above 60 i was getting a lot of rear vibration.

    All i can think of is when i put the driveshafts back in i didnt put them in exacly the same (ie 1 hole out) and the are weighted or balanced?

    Or the brand new second hand diff has **** itself.

    The car has new tyres and has been balanced, so its not them.

    Any help greatly appreciated

    Cal
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  3. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    I'll be watching this one - I have this EXACT problem. It's is also starts at 60 (where it is worst) and then is there all the time above - just in the background. Also, seems to worse some days than others.
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  4. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    I'll hope today is a good day then cos i'm driving back to my parents house.

    Welly have you just changed your diff too?

    Cal
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  5. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    No mate, although it looks reasonably new. It might of been changed before I bought it.

    It didn't do it when I first got the car however so I don't know what it is.... Its a case of getting underneath when I get 5 mins and having a lookie lookie!

    Or getting a garage to do it!!
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  6. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    Have you guys checked your rear wheel bearings?
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  7. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    Wheel bearings seem fine.

    Kust went under to make sure everything was tight and the RHS shaft to output flange bolts where loose! If i where you welly i'd check these (M8 Spline head bolts).

    I'll report back on vibration and if they come loose again after a test drive.

    Cal
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  8. JD09
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    JD09 I'm not modding, I'm improving VCDS Map User

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    Tracking? Depending on what parts you removed to fit the new diff, the tracking/toe/camber may now be out?
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  9. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    My wheels bearings are good too. My next thing on the list to check is the diff bushes.

    After that, it's most likely to be the Universal Joint on the prop shaft.

    Oh goodie....
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  10. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    after driving back vibration is still there so i just sat behind a truck and drove at 56, bolts are all tight, had 4 wheel alignment done, but still has some toe in on the right rear but doubt this would cause this type of vibration. will get the toe sorted next week.

    Cal
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  11. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    Let me know outcome if you will. :icon_thumright:
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  12. s3 ryan
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    s3 ryan ryan s3

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    [Mar 26, 2010]
    ive also got this and thought it was down to balancing, it also has good/bad days and is annoying as hell
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  13. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 28, 2010]
    the vibration has stopped now ive had a good look over the rear suspension/drivetrain and think the problem was a bound up driveshaft. its too dark and cold for me to be bothered to go out to the car but the RR d/shaft had no plunge before but seems to have it now.

    I will confirm this tomorrow when i get a bit more of a chance to investigate.

    Cal
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  14. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 29, 2010]
    Sweet, glad it's sorted for you. Hope my issue is something similar!!
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  15. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Mar 31, 2010]
    Bit of an update, the vibration was caused by a bount up inner CV joint.

    I found out yesterday after a but of a band and some clunks on right turns. i removed the shaft this morning to find this...

    [​IMG]

    Managed to source a brand new second hand shaft and fitted it earlier and the shaft moves freely (as it should) and there is no vibration.

    To check if this is your problem welly i would check your shafts for play or split CV boots.

    Cal
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  16. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Mar 31, 2010]
    I shall do precisely that matey.

    Thanks. Glad you got to the bottom of your issue :icon_thumright:
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  17. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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    [Apr 2, 2010]
    Seems like the same sorta problem i'm having, i noticed that only when im pulling away and turning at the same time though. It doesnt do it in a straight line or at high speeds :S

    What were the symptoms and conditions of yours? Thanks
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  18. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Apr 2, 2010]
    SamiG - Is it in both directions or just one? Does the vibration come from the front/rear or both? These symtoms can come from many different causes. If you can discribe exactly what you feel then if i cant help you then im sure someone on here will point you in the right direction?

    Cal
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  19. rossbrownlee
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    rossbrownlee Ross_S4

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    [Apr 2, 2010]
    Cal,

    Am I right in saying that to remove the rear driveshaft it is just a case of remove the nut or bolt (dependant on year) on the end of the driveshaft, unbolt inner flange, drop shaft from the inner end, pull/knock/press out driveshaft from the hub?
    I have an outer cv gaiter to do.

    Cheers.
    Ross
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  20. dnLcal
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    dnLcal Member

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    [Apr 2, 2010]
    Pretty much.

    1. loosen hub nut with car on the ground (30mm 12-point socket tightened to some where around 150-200nm)

    2. Jack the car up and support on axle stands (ensure all suspension is free to move)

    3. Undo the 6 bolts holding the driveshaft to the diff output flange.

    4. Undo the uper and lower lateral link bolts and remove the bolts (this gives you the movement to manipulate the driveshaft out without damaging the CV)

    5. Remove the inner CV from the rear diff

    6. Using a hammer knock the driveshaft out of the hub.


    When refitting do everything up loosley then go around when everything is connected tighten everything up.
    Attach the lower lateral link first. to aid lining it up put a wheel bolt in the hub and press down to line the upright and lateral link holes up.

    Tools needed: - 30mm 12-point socket, 18mm shallow socket, ratchet, 18mm spanner, m8 spline socket (male), Hammer.


    Hope that helps

    Callum
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  21. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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    [Apr 3, 2010]
    Spoke to my mate who's a mechanice for my local Audi dealership and he said it's a fairly common problem on the Quattro system and diagnosed it as needed the rear Haldex oil and filter chasnged. This will be being done Friday so i'l let you know how that goes :)
    #20

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