Lee Goodall
Registered User
better hurry up and fetch the oil return, i'll be down in a couple of weeks to steal your turbo, streight from the engine bay if i have to.
You can fit my Garrett too while you're there
Turbo upgrade :)
- Thread starter Lee Goodall
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You can fit my Garrett too while you're there
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You can fit my Garrett too while you're there
Sure, you just need to stick to the appointment next time
Need to work out when we're free to get it sorted.
Lee Goodall
Registered User
nah no cat, f reg so i don't need it
Oh yeah, I forgot yours is an 80. Lucky!
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Sure, you just need to stick to the appointment next time
Need to work out when we're free to get it sorted.
Yeah, I'll get the drain sorted asap and we can sort something out.
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Some progress.. I used my spare green R&D A4 (lol) to get the T28 turbo and any components that I am particularly concerned about installed.
The turbo was previously removed so this gave me a head start.
Air box removed.
Garrett and T25 flanged high flow manifold (cable tied together to save time)
Old manifold removed.
Garrett and new manifold bolted in.
Oil feed and drain (drain not visible) in place.
Silicone hoses from turbo outlet to FMIC in place (no FMIC fitted on this car).
Turbo inlet adapter collar fitted ready to take 63mm diameter hose.
Huuuuuuuuge Green Cotton air filter, MAF and silicone intake hoses in place. I'm missing a 90 degree reducer which will replace the two hoses leading to the MAF.
All in all I'm pleased and now confident that it should all bolt into place without too much trouble. The six nuts on the top/centre of the exhaust manifold are nearly impossible to tighten with any kind of socket/tool so this may require some thought.
Controversially I will be opting for an atmospheric dump valve as this will simplify things massively. I have run one on an AEB before with no issues at all. I will fit it to the cold side of the engine between the FMIC and the throttle body.
The turbo was previously removed so this gave me a head start.
Air box removed.
Garrett and T25 flanged high flow manifold (cable tied together to save time)
Old manifold removed.
Garrett and new manifold bolted in.
Oil feed and drain (drain not visible) in place.
Silicone hoses from turbo outlet to FMIC in place (no FMIC fitted on this car).
Turbo inlet adapter collar fitted ready to take 63mm diameter hose.
Huuuuuuuuge Green Cotton air filter, MAF and silicone intake hoses in place. I'm missing a 90 degree reducer which will replace the two hoses leading to the MAF.
All in all I'm pleased and now confident that it should all bolt into place without too much trouble. The six nuts on the top/centre of the exhaust manifold are nearly impossible to tighten with any kind of socket/tool so this may require some thought.
Controversially I will be opting for an atmospheric dump valve as this will simplify things massively. I have run one on an AEB before with no issues at all. I will fit it to the cold side of the engine between the FMIC and the throttle body.
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Ah some progress at last!
Whens it going in the purple car then!?
Make sure your DV is a twin piston type like the bailey dv26 for minimal issues.
Some of them sit open when the engines pulling a vaccum.
Whens it going in the purple car then!?
Make sure your DV is a twin piston type like the bailey dv26 for minimal issues.
Some of them sit open when the engines pulling a vaccum.
Lee Goodall
Registered User
MOT at the end of this month so when that's out of the way I'll get all fitted.
Yeah I'll make sure it's a twin piston dump valve. Cheers.
Yeah I'll make sure it's a twin piston dump valve. Cheers.
Lee Goodall
Registered User
No heat shield planned to be honest. I'm figuring that the only time that it'll be sucking in any warm air is when I'm stationary. When I'm moving there should be plenty of cool air flowing around the turbo.
How's yours coming on?
How's yours coming on?
Lee Goodall
Registered User
The second to to last part for the conversion was delivered today, it's a Forge dual piston ram dump valve. The dump valve came with a service kit and I already have a yellow spring to replace the standard green one with.
Just waiting for a replacement oil feed adapter from Earl's Performance Products that should have been with me this week but is out of stock until early next week.
The turbo will definitely be fitted and running for GTI International (25th - 26th June) although finding somebody to tune it is proving to be hard work
Just waiting for a replacement oil feed adapter from Earl's Performance Products that should have been with me this week but is out of stock until early next week.
The turbo will definitely be fitted and running for GTI International (25th - 26th June) although finding somebody to tune it is proving to be hard work
Lee Goodall
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Should be reet! I've never had a car fail a test yet. Anyone that works on their car often will know the car well enough to ensure everythings fixed before the MOT anyway!
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Passed 
front tyres are on the limit (but I knew about that) that's all 
I've got a fairly bad coolant leak on the turbo side. I had the car jacked up last night and didn't notice anything; I hope it's nothing too painful!
front tyres are on the limit (but I knew about that) that's all I've got a fairly bad coolant leak on the turbo side. I had the car jacked up last night and didn't notice anything; I hope it's nothing too painful!
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Lee Goodall
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Lee Goodall
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So it appears that the gasket that seals the coolant pipe going into the back of the head (with the coolant sender/sensor in) is leaking. Ideally I would like to replace this when I do the turbo as I will be draining the coolant anyway. The turbo will hopefully be fitted the weekend after next so is it safe to drive if I keep it topped up and keep an eye on the engine and coolant temps?
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Inters could be good
Should be fine, as you say keep an eye on it. Its just a rubber o-ring. I assume your water level sensor is functional so you'll get a warning if it actually gets low?
Should be fine, as you say keep an eye on it. Its just a rubber o-ring. I assume your water level sensor is functional so you'll get a warning if it actually gets low?
Lee Goodall
Registered User
I'm going to keep a close eye on the coolant and sort it with the turbo next weekend. Has anybody got the part numbers for the O-ring and two allen bolts for the coolant connection to the head?
In order for the TIP to fit without chafing I could do with removing this section of metal/lip.. do you think this will be safe/won't cause any weakness?
In order for the TIP to fit without chafing I could do with removing this section of metal/lip.. do you think this will be safe/won't cause any weakness?
wel if you dont grind past the spot welds, you should be fine strength wise. but tbh what little differenc it makes, i can't see the harm in removing it completly as if that little bit was to bend in a crash, you have more to worry about than a slight weakness.lol
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Ha ha yeah good point. It's actually a smaller section than I've indicated on the picture but it will need to be flush or I'd imagine it'll cut through the hose before too long.
Am I ok to pay you a visit for some clutch action sometime after Inters?
Am I ok to pay you a visit for some clutch action sometime after Inters?
yeah mate, no worries. Before if you want, but needs to ideally be a weekend. I just hope the slipping hasn't lipped the FW too much, will have to see i spose, not much else we can do is there? LOL
Lee Goodall
Registered User
I'm really struggling for time before Inters so it'll have to be after unfortunately. A weekend is best for me too. I haven't been driving on the limit because of the clutch to be honest and have only noticed the clutch slipping a few times when I've got a bit heavy footed so hopefully the FW will be fine.
What other options would be economical? FW and S4 clutch etc?..
Cheers mate
depends what you want mate. you could buy an std clutch kit and use the DMFW i have here worst case.
I had my LWFW re surfaced and bought a sprung hubbed B6 friction plate and nailed that in mine, so far all good. Cost a few bears for re surfacing and £30 for the plate
I had my LWFW re surfaced and bought a sprung hubbed B6 friction plate and nailed that in mine, so far all good. Cost a few bears for re surfacing and £30 for the plate
Lee Goodall
Registered User
I want something that's definitely not going to start slipping. I'm aiming for 280 maybe 290HP so needs to have a fair bit of grab/clamp.
Could go with the ECS RS4/S4 clutch and flywheel combo or diesel solid fly and S2 clutch that im still wanting to get fitted 
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My solid flywheel turned up on wednesday (£30 delivered from ebay)
Need to get myself a S2 clutch and find a shop to redrill it correctly!
Need to get myself a S2 clutch and find a shop to redrill it correctly!
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Cheap for the flywheel from ebay or something. Clutch i got from GSF which retails at £189 plus vat i think although i got it cheaper. Only thing is they`re out of stock at the minute. The you just have to get it machined and redrilled would be about 70-90quid depending on where you go. Everything is in my thread a few pages back now.
Lee Goodall
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Since i'm ghetto, i've baught a used flywheel, which i'll have skimmed and redrilled.
I also went looking for a clutch and the S2 one was out of stock at GSF so started looking for alternatives. Sachs sell the cover and disk seperately for the S2, but i noticed on the sachs catalog that the cover was also used on a VW LT 2.8TDI van, and happened across a new Sachs clutch kit on ebay for £50 for said van, so i snapped that up.
Finding the friction plate was a bit more difficult, but i've taken a punt on a random 240mm disk from ebay which was claimed to be from an A4 2.8 V6, and only cost £35. Most A4 clutches have a solid clutch plate, as they use the DMF to provide springyness, which obviously doesnt work on a Solid flywheel. Oddly enough, this clutch was listed for a A4 V6, but has a sprung hub, not entirely sure why, but i'm hoping it will work!
I just need to get the flywheel suitably redrilled. I'll be taking it to the machine shop as soon as the cover plate arrives.
I also went looking for a clutch and the S2 one was out of stock at GSF so started looking for alternatives. Sachs sell the cover and disk seperately for the S2, but i noticed on the sachs catalog that the cover was also used on a VW LT 2.8TDI van, and happened across a new Sachs clutch kit on ebay for £50 for said van, so i snapped that up.
Finding the friction plate was a bit more difficult, but i've taken a punt on a random 240mm disk from ebay which was claimed to be from an A4 2.8 V6, and only cost £35. Most A4 clutches have a solid clutch plate, as they use the DMF to provide springyness, which obviously doesnt work on a Solid flywheel. Oddly enough, this clutch was listed for a A4 V6, but has a sprung hub, not entirely sure why, but i'm hoping it will work!
I just need to get the flywheel suitably redrilled. I'll be taking it to the machine shop as soon as the cover plate arrives.
Looking good Lee,
These look like a good bit of kit!
I'm guessing it's a 2" diameter at least at the discharge?
Who manufactures them or where can you pick 'em up?
edit: or is that the kit pictured in post #671? Is it a custom pieced together kit?
Silicone hoses from turbo outlet to FMIC in place (no FMIC fitted on this car).
These look like a good bit of kit!
I'm guessing it's a 2" diameter at least at the discharge?
Who manufactures them or where can you pick 'em up?
edit: or is that the kit pictured in post #671? Is it a custom pieced together kit?
Lee Goodall
Registered User
Cheers, it's all coming together nicely now (I think/hope)..
The intake adapter is 2 1/2" and is from GB Enterprises - Welcome to GB Enterprises!
The outlet is the standard 2" Garrett outlet (when fitted to the Nissan SR20DET engine) and I have used various silicone hoses to route it to the FMIC connection. I will be inserting a barbed connection into one of these hoses too for the N75 boost connection.
The outlet can be seem more clearly on the pic below..
The intake adapter is 2 1/2" and is from GB Enterprises - Welcome to GB Enterprises!
The outlet is the standard 2" Garrett outlet (when fitted to the Nissan SR20DET engine) and I have used various silicone hoses to route it to the FMIC connection. I will be inserting a barbed connection into one of these hoses too for the N75 boost connection.
The outlet can be seem more clearly on the pic below..
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Lee Goodall
Registered User
Oh yeah.. The turbo intake adapter is pictured in post #664 along with an oil drain connection.
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Lee Goodall
Registered User
Got these Mikalor W2 hose clamps today for the new boost connections..
I'm all set to install the turbo over the weekend now.
I'm all set to install the turbo over the weekend now.
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