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turbo or not?

Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by RossB7, Nov 16, 2013.

  1. RossB7
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    RossB7 New Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    hi i have been having this problem with my 2007 2.0 tdi 170 for a while.  The car starts to hessitate and splutter at about 3000rpm then goes into limp home mode the engine management light comes on sometimes but mostly it is the glow plug light flashes, you have to pull over switch off and restart to sort it, this happens every few hundred miles or so inbetween the car runs fine. I had it diagnosed at audi they told me to replace the turbo but the problem is still there, i am aware of a smell coming from the car when this happens it is like a brake binding smell but brakes are ok, sometimes when i start the car the engine won't rev above 3000rpm for the first few times then clears and revs freely. Any ideas as to what may be the problem. thanks.
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  3. dpaz
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    dpaz Active Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    Sounds to me like a DPF issue. Did Audi replace the turbo?

    Do you mainly do short journeys in the car? No motorway long runs?
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  4. Stevieb2905
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    Stevieb2905 Active Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    I had the glow plug light issue, new fuel filter cured it.
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  5. RossB7
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    RossB7 New Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    Hi no an independant garage fitted the turbo, i don't do huge journeys mostly 15 - 20 miles on country roads. Somet
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  6. RossB7
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    RossB7 New Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    Hi no an indipendant garage fitted it, i usually do 15 - 20 miles on country roads every day not much town driving. Something i have just noticed is the small vacum pipe on the turbo actuator seems to be blowing it'self off don't know if that means anything?
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  7. Boertjie
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    Boertjie New Member

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    Hi, I have the same car. Does the eml light show on the dash? If then in my case it was the egr valve. I removed it to clean (it must be done I'd say every 50 000km) when I removed the plastic cover the black plastic cog had worn teeth. The worn teeth is due to the sludge building up on the valve and thus struggle to open and close. I replaced it and the car now is again as it should be. While you have the egr valve removed, also remove the intake manifold and clean. The intake manifold actuator is also worth checking out and replace if necessary (diaphragm tends to split and causes the car to have similar issues) it is a cheap part to replace. Worth to check your car with a diagnostics scanner first. If you did, what is the code?
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  8. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 16, 2013]
    Ok lets start with a car scan 1st before we condemn parts, get it scanned with vcds so we can see what its showing.
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