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TQS track car project - extremely slow progress

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by slepy, Mar 16, 2014.

  1. Sulli79
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    Sulli79 Active Member

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    [Aug 2, 2014]
    Not really a daft question either, I used to work for a section of Daimler, and the merc om engines were no 1 on the free end, but the mtu 2000 series (based on the same engine) were no1 at the drive end
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  2. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 2, 2014]
    Thanks mate. Worked it out after all. Coil pack wiring now sorted. Car starts fine and finally drives well. No more missfiring! I'm finally happy with it.
    [​IMG]

    To do list now:
    - weld in harnesses
    - change diff and gearbox oil
    - sort out bumper (bought used rs4 style one for 30 quid) to fit over fmic
    - fit b6 uprights, new top control arms, brembo brakes
    - book a track day :)
  3. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 16, 2014]
    Dear kids.
    Something not to do when you work on the car. Do not forget to bolt back on the plastic wheel arch before you go for a drive.

    Doh!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  4. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 17, 2014]
    Whoops!

    Mines screwed into the bumper, but because the undertray isnt fitted, the inside edge catches the wheel on full lock when turning right (but not left!)
  5. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 17, 2014]
    I've got the same issue on the left. Will need to attach it to something so that it doesn't move that much. I'm working on the fiberglass bumper at the moment and will need to extend the plastic arches on the side because it is wider than standard bumper. I'm away for a week on training from tomorrow so again long delay :(
  6. Oranoco
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    Oranoco Well-Known Member

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    [Aug 17, 2014]
    I done that too. My arch liners are twatted. Need to sort a new set at some point.
  7. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 17, 2014]
    Well, the right one is pretty much not fixable so will need to get one from breakers
  8. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 17, 2014]
    Get S4 ones there vented
  9. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 30, 2014]
    Guys how much brake fluid do I need to change it completely? And do I need to bleed the clutch as well?
  10. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 30, 2014]
    Its around 0.7/.9 litres maybe a touch more with the clutch definately only used one tin of ATE super blue when i did mine and had a tad left over and i ordered 2 tins (2L) along with the goodridge hoses.
  11. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 30, 2014]
    Cool. Where is the clutch bleed located?
  12. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 31, 2014]
    Passenger side of gearbox pretty much right under the steering rack above the driveshaft its burried in there so be preparred for a fiddly fight.

    What i do with the clutch is leave BF cap off, crack the slave cylinder nipple give it a good 10-15 pumps whilst topping the fluid up, then once done leave the pedal at the top, and just let the fluid trickle out the slave then lock it off, sometimes it may feel abit **** so you may need to give a few extra pumps of the pedal and get your apprentice (the mrs) to just keep the pedal pressed down. And try it that way but its always worked for me.
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  13. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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  14. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 31, 2014]
    Ididnt use a bleeder i did it the good old fashioned way lol
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  15. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 31, 2014]
    Quite a few parts ordered this week for the suspension/ brakes. Just need to get top control arms and the lower wishbone. Now the one I need is to fit B6 alu uprights. So I can get a B6 one and use a spacer for the shock or RS4 b5 one which should be straight fit. Problem is that finding rs4 one isn't easy. Allgerman doesn't seem to offer anything for rs4 and ebay ones don't specify if its for rs4 or s4. I might have to try ecp or maybe some of you have part numbers for febi or meyle?
  16. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 31, 2014]
    I think the B6 one bolts straight on if using ally uprights. As the front shocks are the same in terms of mounting space on lower arm.

    And i believe RS4 ones are identical iirc

    I think you need to mention to all german a B6 reg number and just order the meyle or lemforder kit using a B6 reg.
  17. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 1, 2014]
    I think Byzan had to use a spacer for the b5 shock with b6 uprights.
  18. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 3, 2014]
    My suspension and front brake setup slowly coming together :) Still missing some bits but planning to fit all of it end of September.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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  19. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 3, 2014]
    2002> C5 A6 control arms are what you want.

    They're available from Meyle and Allgerman as i have a set on mine.

    2002> A6 has the proper size shock mount, and the small taper on the balljoint needed for the alloy uprights.
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  20. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 3, 2014]
    Brilliant. Thanks! Already in contact with allgerman about it. Normal top one from b5 should be fine?
  21. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 3, 2014]
    116 050 0087/HD was the part number on my Allgerman order.

    I think later Passats used them too.
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  22. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 3, 2014]
    Was going to order separate bits for the front suspension but priced all together it didn't make sense.
    After a chat to Jason from allgerman I've ordered the full set for the front.
    Will have to stop eating for couple of months now to pay off my credit card but I'm sure it will be
    worth doing everything at once.
  23. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 8, 2014]
    Right Gents,

    I'm planning to fit B6 uprights, new set of control arms, coilovers and brembo brakes.
    I don't want to get stuck with it as I will have couple of days to do it so wanted to check that I have everything I need.

    I've got:
    - set of control arms
    - B6 uprights
    - coilovers
    - brake discs, calipers, pads, braided hoses, brake fluid and fitting bolts

    Tools:
    - spring compressor
    - eezibleeder
    - some socket sets etc.

    Anything else I've missed or some special tools I will need ?
    Also, what is involved in fitting rear coilovers?
  24. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    Make sure the B6 uprights have the little metal inserts in them for the bottom balljoints.

    Make sure you have B6 ABS sensors, as they're different and the B5 ones dont fit.

    You'll need a 17mm hex (allen key) socket to undo the driveshaft which is a little obscure.
  25. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    Make sure you get new top pinch bolts just in case then you dont need to worry about persuading them out as no doubt they will be siezed in :)
  26. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    Is the b5 ABS wiring/plug the same or do I need it from b6 as well? I'm pretty sure there is the metal insert in uprights but I will double check later today. I do have the 17mm hex.

    I have a full set of control arms from meyle so there should be a pinch bolt as well but if I remove all the b5 suspension I hope not to remove top arms from upright.

    What about the rear suspension? Will I need to destroy any joints to fit new shocks and springs?
  27. Sulli79
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    Sulli79 Active Member

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    Top mounts at the front of mine were all cracked, also the rear shock towers corrode round the back, so you may want to allow extra time to repair/replace
  28. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    Good to know! Is there any chance to check the top mounts before removing shock?
  29. Sulli79
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    Sulli79 Active Member

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    [Sep 9, 2014]
    No the front top mounts are hidden, but not expensive anyway. The rear shock towers are quite pricey though, and again you won't see if anything is wrong till there off
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  30. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 11, 2014]
    Do I need to drop subframe to replace the lower wishbone?
  31. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 11, 2014]
    No, but if the bolt is in the original way round you need to loosen the subframe bolts on the rear of the frame and lever it down enough to get the bolt out.

    Once the bolts out, refit it from the other side and you wont have the problem again!
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  32. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 19, 2014 at 4:17 PM]
    After a lot of hours with fiberglass, filler and sandpaper to fix the cracked bumper I bought. It is finally on the car.
    Before :
    [​IMG]

    And yes, it does fit over the fmic after a lot of cutting! After:
    [​IMG]
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  33. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Sep 19, 2014 at 10:49 PM]
    Genuine rs4 or full fibre glass ??

    Not got them brakes on yet :p
  34. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 19, 2014 at 10:54 PM]
    Just fibreglass. Would love an rs4 one but can't justify the price. Paid £30 for this one. Coilovers, front control arms and brakes are going in next week. Have some time off work. Just hope I won't get stuck on the front as it is a big job to do on a driveway.
  35. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 20, 2014 at 10:41 AM]
    Forgot to ask. Does anyone have torque settings for the suspension? Control arms etc.
  36. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 20, 2014 at 5:21 PM]
    Rear coilovers are in. Was easier than I thought. Tomorrow starting with the front.
  37. MaverickTDi
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    MaverickTDi Member

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    [Sep 20, 2014 at 10:07 PM]
    Like the uber shiny stuff above!
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  38. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 22, 2014 at 9:00 PM]
    Right, I have coilovers and all control arms fitted. Had a problem with calipers so a bit of a delay. I have two questions.

    To remove the old rubber brake hose do I just undo this small nut on top? When I fit braided hoses it might not fit in to the bracket.
    [​IMG]

    This is the fitting on the braided hoses I have
    [​IMG]
    Also, second question.
    With B6 abs sensors being different, should I just slice the wires from old and new and solder them? The second plug I assume is for pad wear sensor so I just wire both together as my pads dont have one.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  39. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 22, 2014 at 10:32 PM]
    to undo the brake hose you just undo the 11mm union on the pipe. Be careful, sometimes it siezes to the steel and twists up the hardline as you undo it. Your braided hoses will fit fine.

    Yeh you'll just have to cut and splice the wires. If you cut the end off the old sensor you can save from modifying the car.
  40. slepy
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    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 22, 2014 at 10:36 PM]
    I will just keep the old plugs and cut wires lower. Is there any good method of undoing the brake hose? Heat or smthn?

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