Mar 16, 2014
I so need this bumper!
I would avoid the Nankang NS2, my ex fitted a pair to the front of my old 1.6 A4. They were total **** and I removed them after less than 1000 miles and skipped them in favour of the Contis I sent her to get in the first place. If you want a good budget tyre the Kumho Ku37 does well both on and off track,
the NS2R hes talking about is a track day semi-slick, similar to R888 or Federal 595RSR
Nankang Tyres / Trackday Track Day / Nankang NS2R Sportnex Racing Nankang NS 2R - 225/45 R17 94W XL (120) TL Fuel Eff.: F Wet Grip: B NoiseClass: 2 Noise: 71dB Track Day Tyres - Trackday Tyres - Motorsport Tyres - 17" R17" - 225/45/17, 225/45R17
Yeap that's the one. Seems popular on clio rs forum.
Sorry didn't read that properly. My comment remains for the NS2 but the NS2R is a quite different tyre. Those Federal 595RSR seem to be getting great reviews.
Didn't see them. Same price as nankangs and good reviews. Might have a go and order them instead.
It's been a long day.
Got up early morning to spray first coat of paint before work.
In the afternoon gave it another coat and switched to the drivers side.
Opened the ecu box and found a bucket of water inside.
No idea which way it gets there so after cleaning everything around, used sealant on every possible place that water could get through.
Didn't take any pics because my battery was dead.
Luckily there is no rust underneath the brake servo so went back to passenger side.
Sealed the pollen filter box just to make sure. Gave the whole newly sprayed area a thick coat of waxoyl for protection.
Battery and covers back in. Will need to order all new fittings for the scutter panel and the passenger side panel itself cause it is misshaped.
So first job done. Time to move on to alloys.
Do you guys know what is the best way to get down to bare aluminium?
Can't see doing it by hand with a sandpaper. It will take me months to do 5 wheels.
Send them to city powder coaters. Around 25 each done. Not worth the agro of painting them tbh
Wanted to polish the rim and spray inside. Will see how long it takes me with the worse wheel.
After a long thinking about the tyres, wheels and brakes, I've decided to go 18" instead of bolero's refurb.
The price difference for 17 and 18" tyre isn't massive. It will be easier in the future when I fancy big brake kit to fit
under 18" rather than 17".
Looking at alloys for sale with PCD 5x112, most of them are ET40-45.
With 18x8" and coilovers, I would need a spacer.
The question is, is it safe to use spacers on the track? We are talking 5-10mm spacers per side.
et40 will be fine on 18's Our avant is et42 on 18's with bunches of space
Will I be fine with et43? 18x8". Thinking about the dtm alloys in classifieds.
yup, no problems at all, direct fit
Ok cool. Thanks.
Today I've decided to have a go at the tints. I knew it will be a pain to get rid of them so was prepared to spend most of the day doing it. Had few breakes for BTCC sessions
After 5 hours, a lot of swearing and a bottle of tar remover it was done
Had some time left so went ahead with de-badging the rear.
And back undercover:
Next step is big service.
I need to order tomorrow:
- timing belt kit
- water pump
- oil pump and pick up pipe
- all filters.
I've been reading that it is good to get continental kit.
What's the best place to get it and do you know which one is the right one for ajl?
Also, it doesn't come with water pump. Should I get genuine pump or any good cheaper options ?
Do they come with a pick up or do I need to order it separately?
What other things do I need for oil pump and timing belt change?
Any special tools? Sealant for sump from audi?
With transverse engines, there are few options for baffled sump but none I can find for A4.
Do we have the same issues with oil starvation in hard cornering etc?
The water pump on the AJL is external, and thus isnt quite as critical as on the other models as a failure wont affect the timing belt. That said its probably worth doing if you dont know when it was last done. I didnt change the one on our avant when we did the timing belt when we first got it, and about 2 years down the line the pump impeller broke and i had to pull the front off again to change the pump.
IIRC the genuine pumps arent that much more expensive than the pattern ones. Both my pattern ones seem to leak a bit, so i'd go genuine if i did it again.
The oil pump comes with the pickup.
Sump sealant is about all i can think of that you need.
Ok. Will get genuine water pump. Any recommended oil pumps? Do you remember which timing kit is it for ajl?
Also, because Im doing AC delete, is there anything i can replace the AC pump to route the belt same way?
AC uses a seperate belt, just take it off
I dont remember which kit you need, CT919K4 sits in the back of my mind, but its entirely possible thats wrong!
That saves me trouble finding smaller belt Yeah, that's the one! Thanks.
If water pump is external, what is it driven by?
water pump is driven by a short belt off the PAS pump.
PAS pump is driven by the main aux belt.
So i need to get these belts too?
yeh you could do
I have a feeling it will all cost me. Just hope I won't get stuck on both cambelt and oil pump cause never done it before. The pump will be a pain.
i'd say the pumps easier than the cam belt, afterall it just bolts on!
Bit fiddly getting the sump back on but thats about it.
Cambelt is just a little awkward due to how the tensioner works, You might think "perfect its all lined up" then pull the pin out of the tensioner, and when it pulls up the slack it moves the cam forwards and you realise its now a tooth out.
Pump itself should be easy just getting the sump out/raising engine won't be that easy? Is there no toolkit for this engine that will hold cam in place? Or any other good way to keep it in place?
dont need to hold the cam, just line up the marks and stick the belt on.
I've never done the pump in situ so i've no idea on that aspect.
Pumps fairly easy take off the snub bracket and bracket that bolts to when you jack the engine up remove the o/s mount lower nut then completely take off the n/s mount as you can slide the sump off round the pump pick up !!!
Will see how it goes
Ok. I've ordered timing kit. Going to get water pump and belt for it from dealer. Now looking at oil pumps but they seem to range between 40 and 120 quid. ECP has one for £95. No idea which one to choose.
I used the topran one, all i would say is i believe there has been trouble/issues with the Febi pumps.
I'll go to tps tomorrow and see how much are genuine ones.
There around £200 iirc
Ordered the topran one from ebay. Conti timing kit on the way as well.
Things to order/get tomorrow:
- water pump and belt (dealer)
- sealant for the sump (dealer)
- coolant G12 (dealer)
- oil and filters (ECP or dealer)
- sump bolts - needed or reuse old ones?
- aux belt (dealer or ECP depending on price)
- screws for the scuttle panel 5x 8D0819643 (dealer)
- side repeaters ECP 477440311
Did I miss anything for the oil pump and timing job?
unless you like wasting money, the only things i'd be buying from the dealer are the sump sealant and the water pump.
Belts, coolant, oil, filters etc etc theres NO point paying Audi tax for.
I have one for sale, requires a little repair but only want what I paid for it, £150 plus post, it's silver too!
Thanks mate but i have loads to buy at the moment to get it on track and body upgrades are not on the list right now
Ordered water pump at stealers and sealant. Pump is £56 and you need to give them your old one back which is shocking comparing to aftermarket prices. So not sure if it is worth getting it.
Belts and pollen filter at ECP on order as well. Should have all on thursday so will try to strip the front tomorrow after work.
hmm. Yeh it is dear, but my ETKA says £78, so either you got some discount, or its the wrong part?
Hmm. Do you have the part number it should be just to make sure when I collect it?
050121010CX is the part number for the AJL.
The later engines use a different pump (06A121012G) which is about £50 exchange, hence my concern!
Thanks. I will double check when i pick it up.
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