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Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by Broken Byzan, Nov 14, 2009.
No major progress as I have done my back in, I got the engine and box lined up and in fine, had a drink of coke, went to put the bottle down and my back gave out and I followed it down. So close...
The quattro box has had to go back in aas the donor 2wd one had the wrong flanges in it, so tuning will be delayed a bit
Who supplied your new CHRA? It seems your having as much luck with yours as I have with mine... eliminator appearing to be a curse!
Owens developments iirc Was around £600.
Hows the rear now its polybushed mate thinking of doing it at some point, all germans refresh kit looks good but the powerflex kit is half the price and then id just need some new drop links, pair of bushes and anything ive missed.
The powerflex kit isnt actually any cheaper than buying the rubber bushes.
The tie arms are about 35-40quid each, the drop links are 25-30ish, and you need the four outer lower bushes as powerflex dont do those, which is another 45-50ish.
Those bits alone are half the cost of the refresh kit!
Not much to add just now
finally got the exhaust sorted thank to Bill @ Badger5
3 inch stainless from turbo to miltek rear system.
Much nicer now it no longer touches the rear subframe,lol
Next step is some tuning once Bill and Paul can make a map pack for my odd ball ECU
Found an easy way to 2wd my car....
You get that 2.8 quattro one off ebay for £170 ???
Nearly had that off him but changed my mind and got the s4 bumper lol
2.8 quattro what mate?
Shoulda made a template from that downpipe, i need two like that
2.8 quattro system sorry mate lol
nah hes had an S4 miltek on it for a while, just the connection between that and the turbo needed redone.
Just had a quick catch up, looks like you've had a hard time of it mate, still it looks like your getting there now hey! I hope the ECU swap gives you what you need, I take my hat off to you pal, my patiences would have run out long ago, credit to you for sticking with it
cheers, i need to update with my latest plan, just too lazy,lol.
you got pics of what you clearenced on the block
2.0 build in the making ?????
I have some that will give you an idea, its not for the faint hearted lol, I think it also depends which rods you use. Have you got someone lined up to grind your intermediate shaft? I think it needs roughly 5mm off the back side of it.
The crankcase walls also need taking back slightly, its hard to picture it really but it does get scary thin in places, i broke through the crankcase in the bottom of one of the threaded bosses!!!!! You can see the little dimple in the picture above, I've heard of few others have done the same. Below is a pic of the walls ground back. Its scary how little room there is once you drop the stroker crank in there!
I found that abrasive drums where much better than carbide burr's :thumbsup:
Which pistons you going for?
Ok, my taking a chance on the hot looking no3 rod has not worked out too well.
The rattle i hoped was gone but as i have run the motor it has gradually come back to this short video.
It seems to mostly go when warm and doesn't seem to affect performance, but it bothers me, if I'd wanted a diesel , I'd have bought one,LOL
I am hoping when I take this engine apart no3 is the culprit, I have taken the precaution of buying a new rod of the same spec for PAG parts, it was only $140 to the door.
This penny pinching of mine has cost me this build and provided me a logistical problem with the new build as i need 3 of the Brutes from the existing engine to add to my new one to make a set.
This means I now have to drag my car off the road, strip the engine out and "borrow" the rods and build the new engine on the fly. Obviously the ring gaps will be done and rings fitted to the matching pistons. Also the block will have the clearancing required done in readiness, so the rods are mostly a drop in.
Borne out of this issue was the need to repair my engine. I decided i was going to rebore the block and fit new pistons. While i was sorting the spec required Bill @ Badger 5 happened across an ABF crank from a 1.8 16V Golf. This happens to be the exact crank needed to fit into an 058 block to build a stroker engine.
I made the decision to stay with a sensible bore size and went for 82.5mm, this proved to be a limiting factor as there are not many brands still available in this size, they all are 83mm. Also the added bonus of staying 82.5mm is that the OEM gasket can still be fitted.
OEM v Woosner stroker pistons
Note the reduced deck height
Deck height differences
This is with the pins lined up to show "fitted" position as it were. Also noteworthy is the additional clearance for the oil squirter's. I know 4th is the closest one normally, but this seems on a dummy run to allow that clearance for the 4th squirter as fitted
Brute rod and stroker piston side by side
The astute amoung you my notice the engine has made it into the house ;-P
It was cold in the garage,LOL
It was also easier to start measuring stuff
This is a lump near the bottom
This issue is a gallery style casting further up the block
This seems to be one of the 2 contact point so far.
A few of the others are close, but not measured yet as my feelers are rusted( lack of use) so i need to acquire some more tomorrow
My rods don't seem to be close to the bottom skirts of the bores like Andy's above. It must be due to the brand and style of rod v bore v stroke v piston choice maybe?
My IM shaft was reduced by 5mm from the inside out as per spec to allow clearance
Goodies here to facilitate the engine build and the conversion from ME7.1 to Wideband ME 7.5
This is a seal assy for the gearbox, I have decided to change this as i have seen these fail and cause clutch damage, given i have the new 240mm fitted I did not want this to happen.
Oh forgot this
I had the crank pulley drilled and pinned to add extra security to the weak key way
New coated bearing and new thrust washers. Also new OEM main bolts, I cannot stretch to ARP fasteners atm and std mains have been adequate for many more horses than i'll end up with.
Catch can and hose. I went for a cheapy and hope that Bill will weld the proper size outlets onto it for me
Some electronic gizmos to go with the wideband OEM ECU swap.
New S3 WB MAF, WB 02 sensor and new plug to be wired in and VVT mechanism that i am hoping can be used to aid spool
Somewhere in that lot is an 82 degree Thermostat to aid in keeping her cool, I cannot afford to cook this one
So this now means i need to get cracking as insuring my daughters car to use is £90 for 3 weeks , rip of Britain.
So there we are
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Nice be good to see what power you get out off this !!
I'm guessing you haven't managed to rotate your rods through 360 yet on the stroker crank? It tends to be which rods you use that dictate the bore notch, just don't run anything too close, stuff becomes quite floppy when your spanking it, it was strongly recommended to me by Pete at Integrated to ensure there was plenty of clearance for the rods.
Like the idea of the VVT, i've thought about using it on mine as I believe it can help spool quite a bit.
Are you getting everything balanced? I would also recommend getting your crank journals polished as well.
Looking good though fella, I'll keep my eye on your progress.
Oh its Andy by the way, not Alex:icon_thumright:
Edited, Sorry Andy, Typo.
I have just re assembled and stuck some good old fashoined blue tack in there and it seems i have about 2-3 mm either side when the rod is at its extremes. How much clearence should i aim for?
Crank is polished, I have just used lube to prevent scratches n pick up on the journals, it makes it look rusty/dirrty
2-3mm is plenty so no prob's there.
What clearances have you measured at the crank mains & big ends?
When I said get the crank polished not to make it shiny but to square the journals up, if you plastigauge the bearings you will see there probably not that flat, that ABF crank has probably lived a long life already and seen some abuse, the ABF's I've had have needed a fair polish to get them all nicely sorted out, we are only talking microns obviously.
I had the crank polished and checked at the machine shop that did the rebore/IM shaft/ and crank pin. He said it was good to go and just within spec, I spose I could acquire some plasigauge and get an actual figure.
The only spots it makes contact are the spots highlighted thus far, need to clear them then rotate those cyls properly to check with the good ole blue tack too.
I am only going for 82.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1985cc, maybe that has some impact
Cool cool, sounds like your good to go then dude. I think the clearance issues are well known with I.E rods but I'm unsure with others, I do know that the rod shape/design dictates whether a bore notch is required. The other thing to be sure of is the cylinder 4 oil jet has plenty of clearance, I built mine clear and it still smashed it off! Its a proper nightmare stripping the whole lot down just to change a jet!!! I think if you aim for 2-3mm clear everywhere you should be sweet, although don't quote me on that! lol
I found my exhaust blow that i thought was a spat out gasket.
So shall i replace like for like, or get the stainless jobbie thinking it can be welded up to fix if it breaks
AUDI A4 1.8T 20v K03 K04 EQUAL LENGTH TURBO STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST MANIFOLD | eBay
I wouldn't bother with the eBay monkey metal manifold, there not fit for purpose if you ask me. Whilst you could weld it WHEN it cracks, you will only make it prone to cracking in the heat affected zone of the weld repair and thus will be forever welding it! Only my thoughts but its got ball ache written all over it.
Poorly manifold's not good; did you buy it new?
thats a big crack in a horrible place
I would junk it. scrap metal prices are high!
Thats about same place mines cracked keeps throwing the 00531 code IIRC going to pull my finger out on this one, also if i 3" MAF and got some saab reds or similar would you recommend rods ???
Problem is that i have an eliminator turbo and need something that flows better than the stock one, and options are limited.
I bought this new in Jan2012 and the supplier has magically decided that I only have a 6 mnth warranty, Not feckin happy TBH
If relentless did an A4 manifold I'd risk it and remove and weld when it breaks.
Spending lots of cash doesn't seem to guarantee a better mani, 034 and other are also known to be made of chocolate, It sux.. Shoulda gone full frame and got the PSI mani
What about a few layers of heat wrap to keep it from the naked eye of crack inspectors lol
it is a pig that theres no decent manifolds out there the oem ones seem to hold up to some abuse i remember jason.s said the bex one is larger than the aeb one it might be worth it and having it ported only a suggestion and a costly one as iirc it £200+ +vat :0
I'm leaving mine on a stock ported manifold for this exact reason, aftermarket stuff just doesnt work. I've heard rumored that the BEX manifold isnt actaully any bigger, its just made from a stronger material, but i;ve never seen any side by side shots to confirm either way.
Coatsey on the A3 forum is running a K04/K03 hybrid which is essentially K04 insides in a K03 housing, and is using a stock ported manifold and has made 275hp. If mine makes 275 i'll be delighted, so i'm sticking with stock.
port the OEM one, you can take quite a bit out of it and smooth the runner merge significantly
I did one for a laugh and stuck it eBay a while ago.
ended up with a pint glass of metal after hitting it with the carbide bits
Gone OEM for now, improves spool to earlier in the rev band and it's less flat off boost too. I'll port my spare OEM one i had from Kev and see how deep the crack in the collector goes.
Other option later is to try one of the stainless ones with 37mm runners, they have a decent enough collector so should keep it driveable whilst not restricting it.
MOT passed, just needed a TRE, stuck a good std used one on for now.
I need to order a new dremel to do my block clearenceing, as mine has fubar collets and with all cheapo stuff the spares are not avail. It'll be a little while till i recover from a poorly dog/vet bill.
I'm going to run it in on the tune and narrow band ECU that's in it saves risking bad fueling and timing causing issues during run in.
Once she's run in, I will fit the 2wd centre diff and fit the WB setup and it can make its way onto the rollers for some tweakage.
Found the rattle.... My own fault sadly
OEM manifold for now with some DIY porting.
Squirter on No4 clearanced
The gap is more than it looks, it's not easy to take pics in there,lol
Engine pretty much ready to go in, a few niggly bits I need to sort.
VVT installed for aiding spool when i go wideband
Also need to change the cam sensor trigger wheel too, forgot i only had a single window version, though the ME7.1 hasn't complained yet.
No time till weekend to get her in sadly .
I am going to make a bracket to go from the Aircon pump bolt to the comp housing to add some support ready for when I get myself a tubular manifold
Thats some movement in the pistons!!!
That is some movement.
I assume its something that has happened over time and not when fitting?
What would cause movement like that?
Overzealous honing most likely!