Torque settings for rear CVJ fix...

dieselfitter251

Blow ma own trumpet?
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
1,121
Reaction score
0
Points
36
Location
High 'C's
:readit:Anybody any ideas where I can get torque settings and what needs to be torqued? TA!
 
if it is an outer cv boot fix then the hub bolt is the only thing (other than the upper and lower suspension arm bolts.
but the hub bolt needs the torque
60ftlbs iirc
 
Cool. Putting a new CVJ on. Was going to remove the whole drive shaft for easy access. Anything else that may need horsed up?!
 
i suspect the rear hub nut will need to go much higher than 60lbft...

the fronts go to something like 190lbft then angle tightened a further 120degrees or so

everything else i just suggest the tight setting
 
Alright, I may bend Audi Edinburghs ears on this or go with the front hub torque setting. Am I right in think that once the drive shaft is released from the diff and the hub nut undone, the drive shaft should 'just come out' :lmfao:....
 
I torque up CV joint central bolts to 230lbs, and nuts to 250.
 
yep, ive not looked to closely at the rear diff, but if the CV bolts on, then simply unbolting it from the diff and pulling it out the hub should work once you've undone the bolt/nut, you should hopefully manage to get it out without having to touch the suspension arms. If its not bolt on, then you will probably have to undo the upper or lower link on the suspension to get enough room to pull the flange out the diff.

You will need someone to stand on the brakes while you undo the nut, and you will need to leave some wheel bolts in to stop the disk spinning on the hub. You might be able to do it with the car on the ground and the little centre cap off the wheel to make it easier to loosen.
 
^^^good luck.... The teabag ended up dropped off at a garage due to various siezed bits when I tried the wheel bearings...
 
oh great!
thanks for that
 
I'm sure you'll be fine.... I get the fear about breaking things!!!!! Oh, and I think some of the nuts and bolts haven't been off in around 200K! I'd be siezed too!
 
ah well that is where i have some confidence.
uprights have never been on longer than about a year as I have had poly bushes, coilovers, driveshafts and brakes all done over the years.
they have been on and off so many times I am surprised they haven't become so loose the have fallen off! [think positive]
 
i am doing the bearings while he does the clutch. at least that is the idea!
 
I hear ya, mine are velcro'd on now,lol

Hope the garage doesnt fleece you too much Dieselfitter251

I've been through enough of that to think all garages are sheep farmers! But I'm very careful now... and more willing to get stuck in myself. Local garage is only doing the front right upper rear arm, as I can't be ***** with the pinch bolt etc.. and I'm not to familiar with struts etc....
 
How true, I hang my head in shame! Like I said.. I get the fear! Probably not a worthy excuse tho.. I'm willing to get the CVJ done myself, we'll see how I progress from there..
 
You only become familiar bloodied, angry, on first name terms with Halfords staff, a haynes manual expert and ****** off with it by getting stuck in ;)

true
 
lol

I find it satisfying once it all goes back together and you think "i just saved myself 300quid" however ye, it can be frustrating at times.

Unlike my previous cars however, and barring the old favourite pinch bolt on the front suspension, i've found stuff on this car has all come apart pretty easily. Something i attribute to german engineering :p
 
i like the cash saving element, I just hate the "******! where am I going to find one of those on a Sunday!?" feelings!
Like when you have just sheared an enclosed end sub frame mount bolt on a Mk2 Golf you are close to finishing restoring and need to get it to the MOT centre!! its a floor chopping remedy!
 
:sorry:Utter failure. I hang my head in shame. Managed to get the hub dropped and then had no way of gettingthe CVJ off so we continued to undo the driveshaft from the diff but that wouldn't budge.... :keule: Is the inner CVJ supposed to come away from the diff easily enough when the bolts are undone? Anyway it was solid. Working on the deck with just an axle stand so we were out of leverage too. Considered knocking the diff end of the shaft but though that would only damage the inner CVJ and or diff seals.

I leave myself at the mercy of the forum :crying: but would appreciate any info on where we went wrong. My dad's been working on cars for over fifty years and he was stuck too, I'm wondering if the inner part of the drive shaft is siezed on some how due to the teabags moon mileage.?

Answers on a postcard or as none of you have my address leave me a reply.

Incidently. Audi said the torque for the hub bolt is 115nm + 180o turn...
 
I've never seen the rear diff flanges, but the front ones dont have anything to locate the CV other than the bolts, so the joint should just come apart once you've removed the fixings. Might need a little persuasion if its never been off though?

You did remove all the bolts didnt you? :p

I spend nearly an hour beating lumps out of a transit hub/brake disk once, trying to get them apart. Then noticed, removed the bolts and it came off in 3 whacks lol.
 
Aye bolts were removed. If I had more access i.e. a lift or pit I'd try adding heating or a bit more force with a hammer. Need's it's MOT though so it's in to the garage, preston and Dublin next weekend!