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Top end tapping/rattle

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by fishers3, Oct 21, 2011.

  1. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    Hi guys

    8 weeks ago I got in my S3 after a long drive (the morning after) and the attached video is what I was greeted with, which was lovely! YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

    It's been at a VAG specialist for 6-7 weeks now and following has been changed:
    • Oil pump
    • Cam belt and tensioner
    • 4 hydraulic lifters which seemed to be a bit loose
    It's still the same! I'm getting really desperate now and want my car back so just wondered if anyone had any ideas as to what it could be? I'm releuctant to take it to Audi for obvious reasons and don't want to drive it to another garage for risk of further damage.

    The oil spray bar is working and oil seems to be getting through fine so we're really stumped.

    Any comments appreciated.

    Many thanks.

    Chris.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2011
    #1
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  3. s3schofield
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    s3schofield Member

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    video inop
    #2
  4. Alex C
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    Alex C Well-Known Member

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    we need a password for the video.

    Could it be the cam chain tensioner?
    #3
  5. chazza55
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    chazza55 got an S3 8L: living the dream

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    couldnt see the video

    possibility of little end bearings?......any shiny bits in the oil?
    #4
  6. s3schofield
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    s3schofield Member

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    cam chain tensioner possibly
    #5
  7. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Oct 21, 2011]
    #6
  8. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Oct 22, 2011]
    #7
  9. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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  10. XFi
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    XFi Member

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    [Oct 24, 2011]
    It could be the injectors, my top end is quite tappy but I can tell it's the injectors and not the lifters.
    #9
  11. S3 TAM
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    S3 TAM Pocket now empty

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    [Oct 24, 2011]
    Have you clean/replaced the oil pick up pipe?
    #10
  12. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Oct 24, 2011]
    Yes the oil pick up was check and cleaned when the oil pumP was change , cant see it being the timming chain tensioner , not cuming from that side of the engine , just rang the stealers to see how much they wud charge to spend a hour on it , they wanted 126 for the first hour and 105 after
    #11
  13. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 6, 2011]
    update: well then, i decided to take the engine apart myself to save paying any more labour , took me 3 hours to get the head off yesterday couldn't see anything with head, took the sump off this morning and removed the piston closest to the gearbox and found there was a 15 degree bend in the con rod .... oh dear , how the engine was running still with no miss-fire etc etc , so glad ive found the problem , order new part tomorrow, then put back together Saturday .,,.,.,.,.,., booooyaaaaa
    #12
  14. Lee172
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    Lee172 GT3071

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    [Nov 6, 2011]
    At least you have found the problem, are you using upgraded parts or standard?
    #13
  15. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 6, 2011]
    Standard I rkn , don't intend to up the bhp
    #14
  16. DaveA3
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    DaveA3 Audi A-Trizzle!

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    [Nov 7, 2011]
    u gonna change the others or just 1?
    #15
  17. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 7, 2011]
    Just one with a good second hand source , I've notice a dent on the bottom of the piston where it has hit the crank , guna need new piston too and a set of piston rings ,
    #16
  18. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 12, 2011]
    Bit of an update for your interest, con rod bent from water being sucked in on a very wet motorway journey. Pretty much there now but having a bit of a problem putting the camshafts back in to be timed properly. I've done a quick search but can't find anything. Does anyone know if there's a certain way this should be done in case i'm missing a trick? Ta
    #17
  19. chazza55
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    chazza55 got an S3 8L: living the dream

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    [Nov 12, 2011]

    i could email you some elsawin pages as a pdf if that helps......if you pm me your address / engine code etc
    #18
  20. chazza55
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    chazza55 got an S3 8L: living the dream

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    [Nov 12, 2011]
    Hope this doesn't clog the internet up for everybody!!!:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #19
  21. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 13, 2011]
    thanks for that great help , put it back together this morning and cant turn the engine by hand , wouldn't move at all , guna go out and rechecked my timing
    #20
  22. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 13, 2011]
    been trying to put the vernier pulley back on with the belt still attach and not slacken to get away with pissing around with the tensioner , sum how ive managed to round off the notch on the vernier pulley , anyone got one lying around ? or where can i get one ? Can I use any 1.8t pulley
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
    #21
  23. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 13, 2011]
    im going to take the cams back out and start again , so if i set the crank pulley to tdc , then re fit the camshafts with the tdc timing mark on the chain side spot on , will this work because im not 100% sure that any of my timing marks are correct ....any help is appreciated
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
    #22
  24. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    [Nov 14, 2011]
    Have you used the original shell from the bent rod or new ones? Credit for having a go but be careful it does not end in disaster, if the engine wont turn over there is something badly wrong...
    #23
  25. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 14, 2011]
    Nope use all new big end bearings , I think it's to do with my timing , once the cams are out again is it possible to set the crank On tdc mark , then put the cams back in with mark spot on Up top , is this possible ???
    #24
  26. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 14, 2011]
    Take the cams and spark plugs out, and see if the bottom end will turn over freely.

    If it doesnt, you've done something wrong when fitting the rod/piston/bearing.

    When i fitted my cams, i pushed the engine about 30degrees past TDC. That way, the valves wont collide with anything as the pistons are part way down the bore. Once the cams are in and set to TDC, you can carefully wind the bottom end back to TDC and fit the belt.
    #25
  27. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 14, 2011]
    That's we're ive gone wrong , just dOne it like I'd do a cambelt set both top and bottom to tdc , but were I've taking the cams that changes everything
    #26
  28. fishers3
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    fishers3 New Member

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    [Nov 14, 2011]
    Thanks for ur help , makes alot more Sense now
    #27
  29. Alex C
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    Alex C Well-Known Member

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    [Nov 15, 2011]
    the mechanic in your video sounds like Justin Lee-Colins
    #28

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