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Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by S3Alex, Oct 19, 2010.
Hot off the press.....another new arrival.
That should do the job nicely.
Maybe some good news.
Car is now in bits,and the misfire may simply be the MAF.
Ben said the MAF was filthy,so hopefully it will turn out to be the cause of all the banging and stalling issues.
That would be a really cheap fix.
Wish mine had been a "cheap" fix lol.
I went to put the ARP head bolts in the block and found out he had modified the block to take a thicker and longer ARP bolt so he could use the Golf head doh. Block back off to machine shop for inserts!
Oh god I feel for what you're going through.
I've had one non standard engine previously and it's neither easy nor cheap and just means constantly needing the right parts.
I was fortunate that the engine builder was also the guy who looked after my cars and your predicament is way more difficult.
Mine is in bits right now and the turbo etc should be going on now.
I'm nearly on top of it now. I know the following LOL
Head Golf MK3 16 valve
Block AXX or BWA golf MK5 TFSi
Fan belt Citroen
Timing belt 144 teeth
Block modified for longer/thicker ARP bolt kit
Clutch and flywheel (still being established by Helix but defo non standard in size) smaller
Rear end all golf VR6
Front end all S3
Custom sized rods
Power steering pump Audi
Power Steering rack Golf mk4
Rad and intercooler SpecR
Rocker cover SpecR
Condensate unit SpecR
I have a passport for the car now with all the part numbers to make it easier for me in the future. Been a ***** though figuring all that out!
That's pretty much an entire engine's worth of non standard bits.
Great if you're the owner and builder but a pig if you're stuck working out what's in there.
A lot of the parts on mine are either European or US sourced but not too difficult to find and thankfully I have the full spec.
I can still find alternative parts or sources if I need to and I keep a list of suppliers and parts as new ones come along.
I never want to be in the position of not having a fall back if I need as the car is an everyday drive.... Usually. Apart from its routine summer hols down at AMD!
Most of my pistons had picked up at the top and a little on the skirts which I have polished out with my dremmel.
These pistons are quite tapered as they are 82.4 ish on the skirts and 81.7 above the top ring. About .5mm gap above the top ring so Im not bothered about tidying that up as it don't touch the block anyways. On the skirts ive been more carefull though because if you take off too much there you will get a bit of slap and tickle when cold lol. Very fine wet and dry used there and then red scotch to get the wet and dry grit out of the ally and then a good wash and dry.
Very glad you managed to get away without needing new pistons as well as all of the other work.
That would really have been the icing on the cake.
I'm very glad now that I chose those Wossner pistons as I found the CR was lower than Revo had originally advised.
So all the time I thought I was running stock (10.5:1) CR , it was actually 9.2:1 so running the bigger turbo should be safe enough.
I've also found an excellent place for the planned head work once my inlet manifold is sorted out.
Thanks to Ben @ AMD I've managed to find a relatively cheap upgrade,at least in ease of use.
This little chap might be arriving soon....
Boost controller from an Australian company called GFB.
New Product G-Force II
This looks as if it may be a lot easier to set up and use than my current controller,so when AMD have had a chance to test it out,it may be the next bit on mine.
The one I've got now is a Gizzmo controller,which works well enough,and I've got no complaints about,but it is a bit niggly to set up and use.
Got to have toys.
Latest news on the car is that the gearbox is back in,and thank God,the turbo fits.
That was my single biggest worry,having forked out a LOT of money on it,that it wouldn't clear the propshaft or some other part,but it's been winkled into place.
You're telling me!
It really worried me all along that something might not work,or I'd got the frame size on the turbo wrong,or the diff wasn't the right one etc etc. and I'd be left with a pile of parts!
I've had great help all along the way,and still have a few things in the pipeline,including that manifold,which I hope is coming soon,but still have to wait for.
Roll on next week when the car should be running.
Time for some pictures,courtesy of Ben.
Here it is alongside it's smaller,older brother.....
Me likey too...
Plenty more to come.
Considering the GT3071 has been on the car for a while now,it's looking in good condition,and pretty clean overall.
On this pic you can easily see the anti-surge intake,and bigger aspect ratio of the new compressor,and if I dig this oldie out,you can see the difference between the 3071 and the K04.
Here's the new turbo with it's new friend....
And a good set of ARP bolts,so it shouldn't drop off....
And it's home.....
Engine is running....
Now waiting to see if the misfire and stalling has been sorted.
Want u doing with your 3071r ?
It is already spoken for,but if for any reason it falls through I would see if anyone here is looking for one.
It's going to be looked at to see if it's in good condition first,although externally it looks fine,and was working well prior to the replacement arriving.
Quick quiz time....
2 arm gear puller?
Getting very warm.....
It's the old diff still attached to it's gear wheel and the bearings about to be pulled and examined.
They've been chucked and new ones fitted,along with a chunkier piece of steel.
More sexy time pics lol
Every time I read this thread it gives me the urge to go big turbo - I'm not even 2+ yet either
With the smooth comes the rough.....
There's an idle and low speed misfire and near stall issue,which is slowly getting tracked down.
Not the lambda probe,not the exhaust,not the MAF(as it's been cleaned) and not the coil packs or plugs,which leaves the throttle body next.
The rear brakes were tired,so I took DaveB's advice from a while back.....new discs and race pads.
Still getting to the bottom of the idling and fuelling.
The car began running rich a few weeks prior to going in,as well as popping and banging(!).
I'd assumed an exhaust hole somewhere,but it seems that's not the case,but what you save on one thing you lose on another,as the fault is getting tracked down.
The thermostat may now be the cause,but there are no error codes to narrow the search down.
I suppose in one respect at least I know the car has the capacity to run rich,even with what's been done to it!
Car's been logged and engine doesn't get above 70C,so everyone here is hoping it's been tracked down to the thermostat.
So......while I'm waiting,more from the innards of the car.....
Actually all looks in very good nick.
D-Day today for the thermostat problem maybe.
If the new one arrives and gets fitted,we may have an answer to the rich running problems.....maybe.
In the meantime then,more from the recent archives.....old and new together.
And showing the compressor size better.....
That was my feeling when the box from Owen's got opened.
End of business update.
New thermostat fitted and engine now gets up to temperature.
But.....still not quite right,so the next item on the menu is the cars MAP sensor which is close to the WMI jet and it may have got knackered by the WMI system.
All of that made me think....
It's actually a surprise the car was running at all.
MAF beyond being cleaned.
Thermostat stuck fully open.
MAP sensor knackered.
Now wonder it was running rich......I should rename AMD as Auto Motive Detectives.
So is it now running properly or are they ones to check still?
Wmi has been known to destroy a few peoples throttle bodies, so thats a good shout.
Im sure itl be something simple. best of luck
As it stands,the following have been checked:
Air filter(replaced,as it was a bit knackered)
MAF(replaced as above)
MAP sensor checked and replaced as it's above the WMI injector
Plugs changed(time to do that anyway)
Coil packs checked
Throttle body checked and cleaned
Lambda probe working fine.
Thermostat stuck open and replaced.
Having done all of that,it still won't idle properly,so the last thing on the list is to swap out the entire throttle body as one final possibility is the throttle pot track inside may be worn/noisy/damaged.
Karl...we did think of that,as I've seen pics of a few where the throttle butterfly has actually disintegrated,and that's due to methanol weakening those with ABS butterflies(like mine for instance),but the thing does actually work fine and structurally appears undamaged,but the actuator is a sealed unit.
The PCV has been replaced with one of Forge's systems,so that's not an issue either.
So.....hopefully there's a spare one lurking around the workshop.
Smoke test the whole system?
Also how big is the intake to the turbo? On large intakes with large turbos with big inducers, whilst at idel they can swirl the airflow in the TIP causing unstable maf readings at idle, check those readings at idle, shouldnt fluctuate much at all.
Hemce the whole 'bigger maf and you lose driveability and smoothness at low loads'. It can be combatted with flow straighteners in the tip tho, with 2 plates welded in perpendicular to each other for example.
I plan to do this on mine with my rs4 maf and 90mm intake, although not HUGE, it might be one of those small things that makes a big difference to driveability wen you want to potter around.
Hi mate....and thanks very much as always.
This is the downpipe elbow onto my turbo....
It's a 3" fabricated pipe running from the elbow of the ITG intake above,with a 3" silicone pipe between the two steel pipes,and you can see the ITG here.
It's then sleeved onto the turbo inlet...
Here it is at the original build,in place....
You can see that space between the downpipe,master cylinder and exhaust manifold is incredibly tight,and meant the downpipe has to be made up for this car.
The problem is that it's run perfectly on this setup until it began running rich and idling badly very recently,so something has changed other than the hardware and software setup.
Coils checked ok, have you humoured yourselves & tested another set anyway?
I'm not 100% sure,but I do know they work just fine under full throttle load and peak rpm.