Things you would change on a used S4

[Dan Yeates]

Hi,

Picked up my first Audi last night, a 1999 S4 (facelift) in silver with light cream leather. Good spec including sat nav and Bose, plus it's the estate. Have to say it's an awesome car! Great fun, uses a hell of a lot more fuel than my old Vauxhall VX220 though!

Looking back through the service history it looks like it's been well looked after by the previous owners, always getting serviced at Southampton Audi. I have read a few things about DV's, EGT's etc. being new to these cars I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at or what the terminology is, but I'm picking it up!

Found an invoice for a "valve" from Southampton Audi last year, part number ends in 710N, so I guess that's the DV you're all talking about. Anything else I should replace to be on the safe side? It had a major service end of 2006 including the cam belt, water pump etc. It also had the after run pump modification fitted last year, looks like this was done at Southampton Audi too.

Can you point me to a good supplier for parts, modification and standard replacement parts please? I have seen you talking about VAG Parts, is this the best place? What are the most desirable, can't live without modifications?

Thanks in advance!

Dan - proud new owner of a shiny S4 Avant

 

[Blue_Thunder]

Sounds like the previous owner was an enthusiast as he's obviously changed the DV's (hopefully chnaged both at the same time!) for 710N's and had the after-run mod done.

I use Vagparts mostly for OEM bits and pieces. As for modifications, depending on where you are, either MRC(Banbury), Unit20(North West) or QST(Sussex) will be able to do all the work, remap the car and can provide parts as they are both suppliers of parts, ie: H&R, KW, etc.

Also check the classifieds on www.AudiSRS.com or www.RS246.com as 2nd hand parts quite often come up.

Welcome!

 

[Blue_Thunder]

Also, get a healthcheck asap to make sure you don't have a boost leak or any other problems which Audi may not have noticed (you have to remember, not a lot of Audi Techs have much experience with the 2.7T).

Would also advise getting a Vagcom cable if you have a laptop. Mine has saved me a lot of money, time and hassle.

 

[Dan Yeates]

Thanks,

I'm near Southampton so will have to look out for some tuners and specialists round here.

Don't have a VAGcom cable but I will look into it.

 

[Fraser]

I would echo Blue's comments re getting it pressure tested

Mine had a full Audi healthcheck - all fine apart from a CV boot leak and suspension arm required

Took her to Unit 20 for a check a day later for a pressure check and proper healthcheck plus full cambelt, waterpump and thermostat - both DV's were shot, and most of the hosing around the DV's were screwed. So don't rely on knowing it has been to Audi as they don't always go further than the vag.com diagnostic, get it to a decent specialist - healthcheck is only about 50 quid

getting vag.com is also a wise investment as mentioned before in your other thread and by BlueT above.

things to be changed:

straight away I am doing / did - DV's, afterrun mod, f-hose - doing an f-hose delete, Throttle Boot Body - going for a Samco TBB.

next bits: alloys, suspension (maybe RS4 or go for coilover set), shortshifter

wilkommen!

another silver owner! get some pics up!

 

[Fraser]

re vag.com

I went for the fully forwards compatible lead, not as cheap but will always sell to more modern audi / VAG owners - not all the leads cater for the newer and full VAG range.

http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHU.html

the above guys are official distributors for http://www.ross-tech.com/ for make them

the ebay cheapies can be a tad risky, i have 3 audi's so the proper lead is a sound investment for me

 

[Dan Yeates]

Thanks for the welcome and replies. I've only ever used the VX220 forum (which is quite small) and I now know those cars inside out. It's like starting all over again!

That's great! Just what I'm after. I will dig out an Audi specialist down here then and get it checked. Hope it's ok as I'm skint after buying it, insuring it (at 23 years old) and filling it up!

I like the look of the Vag.com lead, don't have a laptop at the moment though, just a desktop! Might be a pricey investment but I will look into it, suppose I can get a cheap laptop second hand.

Few camera phone pics (it's filthy atm!)

 

[Dan Yeates]

Most annoying thing at the moment is the DIS fading when it's hot (and it is very hot!) It's perfect when it's cold.

I'm pretty competant when it comes to electronics and have been reading a few threads. It's annoying there is no proper DIY fix, rather than some cardboard behind the screen!

Would like to replace the screen or ribbon but will look into that.

 

[Fraser]

they can be refurbed but it costs about £140 if i recall correctly

mine is the same - i only really drive mine on weekends so don't know it much

car looks a tidy example :thumbsup:

 

[rasA4]

:sign_welcome:

nice colour :thumbsup: whats the cost of the insurance like?

 

[Fraser]

mine was 399

10 years ncb - a-plan brokers using group arma performance car policy

 

[Pornstarr]

I'd look into changing the fuel filter.
Not a normal service item, not even on a major service.

Presuming someone's not specced it to be changed, at 10 years old now, it's way past it's best.
Changing mine was one of the best things I've done.

 

[Dan Yeates]

Ok, where is the fuel filter on this engine? There's not much space for poking around!

 

[Fraser]

it is inline on the fuel lines I *think* on the drivers side. held on by some very small and fiddly bolts too. I am going to get Grizz to do mine when she goes in for a f-hose delete and a Samco TBB

 

[Dan Gliballs]

What's this after-run mod you speak of people?

 

[Fraser]

From vagparts.co.uk

After run pump mod
After run pump switch operating at 88/93C. This is a 2 pin blue temp switch complete with a new O ring and clip to hold the switch in place.

There is no specific listing for this switch. You will know if you need it!


Order number: AFTERmod
Our price: 20.17 GBP
39.73 USD
plus 17.5% VAT

basically keeps the engine fan to help prolong turbo life via cooling after the car stops - still need to warm up and warm down after a run through - this is just extra insurance. some people have found that if your battery is oldish then a new battery may be wise as you may come back to a flat battery as the afterrun mod keeps the fans running off the battery for approx 2 mins after stopping

 

[Blue_Thunder]

You've got to be kidding Dan G? 1020+ posts and haven't heard of it??

You basically replace one of the coolant temp sensors with a different VW/Audi sensor which triggers at 90 degrees instead of 120 degrees (I think), which sets the water pump and radiator fans going for 5 mins or so once you've turned the engine off. Keeps the water circulating through the turbos which cools them down faster, preventing the oil inside them from boiling over. It can be a 10 minute job (depending on how much brute force is required to get your existing sensor out).

 

[Blue_Thunder]

ps. Think you can get the same parts from an Audi or VW garage for about a tenner all in. Think Vagparts are having a laugh!

 

[Fraser]

morning Scott

 

[Blue_Thunder]

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html and look for Low temp Thermo-Switch for S4 (B5) After-Run System

 

[Dan Gliballs]

You've got to be kidding Dan G? 1020+ posts and haven't heard of it??

That's about the size of it matey-skip lol

I always warm up and cool down thoroughly though anyway The neighbours must think I'm nuts when I sit on the drive with the engine running.

 

[Stringster]

Does the after run mod also apply to the 1.8T?
Always annoys me that the fan doesnt run after the engine stops.

 

[aragorn]

sitting on the drive with the engine running isnt actually a good idea, all it does its heats the coolant up even more.

What's much more sensible is to keep the revs down and use gentle throttle for the last couple of minutes of driving, park then turn the engine off after a few seconds at idle to ensure the turbine has slowed down as much as possible (ie 5 seconds max not 3 minutes)

If youve been giving it hell then mild driving for say 5 mins rather than 2 is all it needs

I tend to find that seen as the last few miles of most peoples journeys are in residential 30 limits anyway, by the time you've parked its already plenty cool enough to turn it off, as i doubt your screeching to a halt after boosting up your caul-de-sac at full throttle then switching off instantly

 

[Fraser]

^sounds sensible - thats what i do, mainly down into a 20 zone so last few miles are calm and intended to cool her down

 

[Dan Gliballs]

sitting on the drive with the engine running isnt actually a good idea, all it does its heats the coolant up even more.

What's much more sensible is to keep the revs down and use gentle throttle for the last couple of minutes of driving, park then turn the engine off after a few seconds at idle to ensure the turbine has slowed down as much as possible (ie 5 seconds max not 3 minutes)

If youve been giving it hell then mild driving for say 5 mins rather than 2 is all it needs

I tend to find that seen as the last few miles of most peoples journeys are in residential 30 limits anyway, by the time you've parked its already plenty cool enough to turn it off, as i doubt your screeching to a halt after boosting up your caul-de-sac at full throttle then switching off instantly

I'm not taling about long periods lol,..............and I DO know how it works

Had tons of turbo cars and haven't killed a turbo yet.