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The best QD to remove and keep dust at bay !!

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by wyliss, Mar 12, 2010.

  1. wyliss
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    wyliss Member

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    I've recently washed the car and its stayed clean as the weather has been ok.
    Its parked in a car park of a day and it always seems to gather a layer of fine dust.
    Now, without the need for another 3 hour session of cleaning, would it be ok to use a high quality QD to 'lift' the dust and then just buff?.
    Would the majority go with doing another wash to reduce the risk of marring ?
    TIA
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  2. Hunty
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    Hunty Member

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    I know FinishKare 425 claims to have anti-static properties to avoid build up of dust. Just bought it in bulk from Cleanyourcar as it is on sale. Personally, I'd give the car a quick rinse rather than QDthe dust away, too much of a risk of swirling the paintwork, even though the audi paint is very hard. Sure some of the other guys on here will have a bit more detail for you.
    Hope this helps,
    Neil
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  3. wyliss
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    wyliss Member

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    Thanks Hunty !.
    Its just a basic spruce up in my lunch hour really. I was considering doing a a quick spray of Optimum No Rinse first and then a QD.
    I suppose that would act as a swill and then follow up with some QD.
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  4. Hunty
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    Hunty Member

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    No worries buddy, not used the ONR before but I've read some great things about it! Let me know how you get on with it please mate.
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  5. wyliss
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    wyliss Member

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    I've used ONR in the past as a wash and it worsk very well. It has many uses too, have a look at Optimums site for details.
    The essential thing I do is spray the panel with the diluted solution first, allow to dwell, and then use the MF's from my bucket to clean, lighty !.
    I always use the TBM method ;-)
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  6. Hunty
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    Hunty Member

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    Thanks buddy, I think I'll give it a whirl during the summer!
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  7. JD09
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    JD09 I'm not modding, I'm improving

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    If you can avoid using a no water product, do so. That would be my advice. Still very sceptical about these products and I have seen them being used and used them at shows.

    Do you need to wash the car during your lunch break? Try and find a couple of hours at the weekend and wash it properly.

    Failing that, Zaino Z8 Grand Finale is very very good.
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  8. Hunty
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    Hunty Member

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    From the video I've just watched, for removing light dust, ONR should be fine with a TBM, have a look JD and see what you think http://www.optimumcarcare.com/onrwns.htm?false=false . You still get the mitt wet, so would be better than a QD. Don't get me wrong, wouldn't wash a dirty car with it, but for a quick spruce up, saves you getting everything out. Anyone else used ONR?
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  9. JD09
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    JD09 I'm not modding, I'm improving

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    Quite a few of the detailers I've got to know over the years swear by it for shows.

    I just wouldn't. Guess it's just a point of view etc. But would really rather find a local Tecos or something if the car is that dirty before a show.
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  10. WX51TXR
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    WX51TXR Polished Bliss

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    On my pride and joy, I'd always wet wash it... and leave it dusty if time didn't permit. On a daily runner the idea of progressive marring from waterless washing or quick detailing wouldn't be so bad I guess, but I'd still be inclined to wet wash and leave it dusty or dirty in between. As above, this is just a personal point of view though. :sm4:
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  11. wyliss
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    wyliss Member

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    Thanks Rich for the reply.
    I think your correct really. I suppose where I park the car it would only go one day then I'd risk putting the paint through an unpleasant time.
    I've just acquired a Megs G220 so, weather permitting, I'll shortly be putting an order in for some bits.
    Which pads and polish and would you recommend for a Audi with Akoya Silver Pearlescent paint?
    Cheers
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  12. JD09
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    JD09 I'm not modding, I'm improving

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    This would depend on the paint condition really. Personally Menz 3.02 Power Finish for a cutting compound, with Lime Prime as a finishing polish, and 3M perfect it pads for me.

    Remember, you want the least cutting option first. The skill of using these machines is in taking off as little paint as possible.
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  13. WX51TXR
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    WX51TXR Polished Bliss

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    Our stock advice for tackling hard German paint by dual action machine is as follows...

    "To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend conducting a two stage process starting with Menzerna RD3.02 in conjunction with Menzerna Polishing Pads (135 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 80 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you to correct around 95% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you could switch to using Menzerna Compounding Pads (135 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 80 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). These offer even more cutting power, but are more awkward to use, as they are very firm and unyielding. With the correction stage done, we recommend following up with Menzerna 85RE in conjunction with Menzerna mm Finishing Pads (135 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas, and 80 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light pressure should enable you to produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using either a good quality sealant or wax."

    However, as pointed out above, if the paint is already in good condition with no obvious swirls/defects you could go straight to the finishing polish just to boost the overall level of gloss before adding protection; goes without saying that Werkstat Acrylic gets our vote on silvers.

    :icon_thumright:
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