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Temperature gauge

Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by Luke2.0tdi2010, Feb 28, 2013.

  1. Luke2.0tdi2010

    Luke2.0tdi2010 Active Member

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    Ever since I've had my cambelt and water pump done (bout three months ago) the temperature gauge takes a lot longer to reach half way (90) and if for instance I'm sitting in traffic it will drop to below the quarter mark, and much quicker if I have the blower on. I used to warm the car up about 10 mins before I left for work and it would nearly be at 90 but now after 10mins it's not even registering, and now it will never heat up to 90 on idle, I would need to drive it for at least 10-15mins for it to warm up properly.
    Before the cambelt and water pump for instance If I drove to work (20 minute drive) gauge would have got to 90 and if I sat there and left it idling it would stay at 90.
    Now it will get to 90 by the time I get to work but if I sat there on idle it would gradually make it's way down to below the quarter mark? I'm not very mechanically minded at all, thermostat or sensor maybe? anyone ever had this before?
    Cheers, Luke
     
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  3. hades-

    hades- Yorkshire & Humber Rep.
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    do you get good heat from the blowers ? if not its the stat
    or it could be the CTS
     
  4. Luke2.0tdi2010

    Luke2.0tdi2010 Active Member

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    Yeah, I'm getting heat from the blower so it's not bothering me too much and in a way it's better than overheating but surely it's not as it should be?
    Whats the 'CTS' (i'm gathering 'C'something Temperature Sensor) and not too expensive?
    cheers.
     
  5. hades-

    hades- Yorkshire & Humber Rep.
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    coolent temp sensor
    easy to change if you change it get the clip and seal and use oem
    aftermarket are known to fail pretty quick
     
  6. Luke2.0tdi2010

    Luke2.0tdi2010 Active Member

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    I try to get all my parts from Audi so i'll give em a bell now, thanks for your help bez
     
  7. NHN

    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
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    Strange its since the coolant pump was fitted, are all the coolant pipes warm?
     
  8. Molnboman

    Molnboman Well-Known Member

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    +1 on sensor route....I had a similar issue and fixed it by changing the thermostat. The sensor is s cheaper option to try and eliminate the problem...the thermostat is a bit pricey and recommend VAG part, and about an 1/2 - 1hour labour if I remember?

    Good Luck and keep us informed if you find the cure.

    BR
    A
     
  9. rizzini7

    rizzini7 Active Member

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    Stoke Audi priced the parts up for mine at:
    Temp sensor 06A919501A £32.65
    Temp sensor seal N90316802 £1.22
    Thermostat 06E121111G £44.78

    Not sure if theyre the same accross the range though. Im sure someone will confirm
     
  10. Molnboman

    Molnboman Well-Known Member

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    I remember there were two types of connection for the temp sensor dependent on the engine type ( mine is petrol ) and can be determined by a colour code on the connection.....if memory serves me right, however, not much difference in pricing between the sensor and thermostat then.

    A
     
  11. rizzini7

    rizzini7 Active Member

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    Yeah, was my thinking so thought I might as well do both due to the price. Tend to find once mine warms up the temp sits just below half way and doesn't move whatever I'm doing.


    Getting intakes cleaned and dropping the sump and changing oil pump as well. Now hitting 91k so decided its time for a good clean out and swap a few sensors etc...
     
  12. rizzini7

    rizzini7 Active Member

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    Then again just ordered genuine sensor off eBay for £13 posted!
     
  13. b3nny

    b3nny Member

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    Did you ever grt tonthe bottom of this I have exact same sypmtoms
     
  14. Mike B

    Mike B Member

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    As said if you get good early heat from the blower and the rad still feels cold its not the stat so you need to try the CTS route
     
  15. b3nny

    b3nny Member

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    Sorry missed that bit, definitely get early heat from the blowers, before the needle even moves will check the temp of the rad tomorrow.

    is there any tips for getting at the sensor, if im attempting to remove the correct one its a absolute pitta and you do it completely blind as its tucked underva metel pipe at the back of the engine? I managed to grt the plug off but ciuodnt budge the clip as I couldnt apply enough pressure.
     
  16. SDHA4SLine

    SDHA4SLine Well-Known Member

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    Afraid its just a bitch to do, burnt arms, bleeding knuckles and a sore back. Could you not get a screwdriver down there to lever off the clip?
     
  17. b3nny

    b3nny Member

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    I will try with a screw driver this weekend I only had a socket set at the time, I've orderd a new clip just in case the old one flys into the engine!

    So it is just a matter of blood sweat and tears lol, so I know I'm defiantly attempting the correct sensor it's basically at the back of the engine in the middle under a metel pipe, and the wire is 2/3 inches long before it connects to the main loom?
     
  18. SDHA4SLine

    SDHA4SLine Well-Known Member

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  19. SDHA4SLine

    SDHA4SLine Well-Known Member

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    Do t forget you need to get new one in straight after old one comes out to minimise coolant loss.
     
  20. b3nny

    b3nny Member

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    I have a bottle of g13 on standby, is there anyway of seeing what you are doing or do you have to do it completely blind?
    I was thinking of getting a mate to hold a small mirror if not.
     
  21. SDHA4SLine

    SDHA4SLine Well-Known Member

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    Blind unless you have a crane to do it mission impossible style.
     
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  23. b3nny

    b3nny Member

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    Lol, what a stupid place to put it!
     

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