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tdi 140 or 170 help

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by dannyFR+tdi, Nov 21, 2011.

  1. dannyFR+tdi
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    dannyFR+tdi Member

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    Hi all

    Well after two years of regretting selling my old b6 avant ive decided its time to get myself back into an audi. I have decided on a 3door 8p but have afew doubts that ive been looking into when deciding weather to get a tdi140 or 170. Mainly to do with reliability.


    1. Are the turbos on a 140 really weak?
    2. How problematic is the dpf on a 170 with blocking and failing?
    3. If i was to choose a 170 would audi check the injectors and upgrade them FOC if they are the problem injectors ive been reading up on


    Any help would be really appriciated very much and any other advice or tips too


    Cheers in advance
    Danny
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  2. cloughy
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    cloughy Member

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    I've got a 170 with DPF, I contacted Audi customer services who stated if I had a problem with the injectors they would be replaced at Audi UK's expense, mine are ok so they said a replacement wasn't needed.

    I personally haven't had a problem with the DPF but my regular route to work is 50mph plus for 20 minutes. I think the DPF issues arise from regular stop start town driving.
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  3. Ash187
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    Ash187 Audi Retrofitter

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    140 turbos go if you remap and floor it alot! my car is not remapped and its just past 140k on standard turbo!
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  4. mikex709
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    mikex709 Member

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    mine is 2007 S-Line 170 TDI with 30k on the clock, and had all injectors changed FOC even though nothing is wrong them them :)
    I seem to have a small issue now when starting in the morning, its struggle for a half a second to turn the engine now, but always will turn. It was fine before, maybe its the cold weather. The service manager says it should still start up unless the temperature are into the minus degree celcius, it's now booked in for a checkup FOC which will go in next week, not sure if its related to the injectors being replaced. The battery is measures 12.52V and glowplugs was replaced last Dec at 26K.
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  5. Ash187
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    Ash187 Audi Retrofitter

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    off topic but is 12.52V ok for the battery? i was told that it should be 14V?
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  6. spencer361
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    spencer361 Member

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    Depends if the engine is running or not. The alternator will put out a charge of 14 volts when running, If you put a volt meter across the battery when the engine is off, I'd be expecting 12-12.5 volts.
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  7. Ash187
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    Ash187 Audi Retrofitter

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    so if it were any below 12 would you be looking to get a new battery? i need to test out my battery before the cold really sets in
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  8. mike foster
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    mike foster Fossie

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    Mine, on a cold morning and with an error code due to a duff led sidelight has a freeze frame voltage of 10.2. !! Still starts fine and error goes after switchoff/on of ignition. Car is just over 6 years old with 75k.

    This happened all last winter and has just begun again - if I were you Ash I wouldn't worry unless you get starting/turnover issues.
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  9. audigex
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    audigex Member

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    Even if your battery is on it's way out, when it eventually refuses to start you'll get away with doing repeated "off, accessories (heats glow plugs), off, accessories, off, accessories, start" for a couple of starts until you can replace it. i.e. if it goes on a morning, you'll still get to/from work for a day or two and can just swap it in the evening. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

    Cold mornings would very easily explain how it takes a little longer to start - the engine is colder and it takes a couple of "coughs" to fire, fairly standard with a diesel particularly.
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