Tandem pump replacement

Bedders

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Had service carried out on car at £600 (cambelt & waterpump) & uncovered oil in fuel (when changing fuel filter). Reading on here either injector seals or tandem pump. Had reduced brake feel & judder on acceleration recently so had a go at changing tandem pump.

Cut to the chase I've put new pump on (as service cleaned me out fund wise) & its ******* diesel out of new gasket. New Bosch pump with D code at end of part number, & new gasket fitted, Stumped as to why its piddling fuel out of gasket joint? Torqued as per manual.

Any ideas?

And whilst I'm at it who designed that bottom bolt? Idiots!
 
Combined vacuum & fuel pump bolted on side of engine. Whilst we are at it....which idiot designed a combined pump? It was bound to fail at some point.

To be honest I'm not feeling the vw/Audi love at all. Designed by idiots & made to fail.
 
was it a genuine gasket? if not, that will be the problem, aftermarket TP gaskets are *****
 
Never had problems with gaskets like I have with vw / Audi. Really putting me off getting another German car. Compared to my last two Subarus they really are garbage! It's over designed cheap tack junk.
 
Never had problems with gaskets like I have with vw / Audi. Really putting me off getting another German car. Compared to my last two Subarus they really are garbage! It's over designed cheap tack junk.


not at all, use the correct parts and they are bullet proof, use aftermarket cheap tat and they will throw a fit
 
I beg to differ! Turbo £1k; dual mass flywheel & clutch £1k; inlet manifold £700; cracked alloy £450; £100 to change the 'tandem' rear wash wipe motor & now the friggin tandem pump. All those were original vw/Audi parts and they failed. It even had to have the injectors changed under recall as the damn things were trying to switch the engine off at fault status. The things are made out of chocolate! As I was changing the tandem pump I leant against the front top cross member in the engine bay & it cracked as its made of plastic. I'm at my wits end with the thing it's junk! I'd go as far as saying it's the worst car I've ever owned & im old enough to have owned British Leyland stuff that was made during the strike era so that really is a statement.
 
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Some people have a lucky problem free Audi for years and some don't. Been lucky with the 3 I've had so for, unfortunately you have not.
As for the leak, something very simple has failed, just buy a new gasket, a good clean up of the surfaces and try again. Maybe a dressing of Hermatite Red will help, diesel is harder to seal than oil or coolant.
 
Some people have a lucky problem free Audi for years and some don't. Been lucky with the 3 I've had so for, unfortunately you have not.
As for the leak, something very simple has failed, just buy a new gasket, a good clean up of the surfaces and try again. Maybe a dressing of Hermatite Red will help, diesel is harder to seal than oil or coolant.

I know what you are saying but I bought mine with a full main dealer history & it's been problematic from day one. I only had it a month and the dpf properly spat its dummy out. Forgot to mention that in the earlier post.

I really don't get how people are so defensive of VW group cars? Try working on a Subaru and the engineering is another level to this! It's all 'special tool' this all the time. Seems as if they have to engineer special tools all the time as their designers can work out that parts are gonna need to come off & acess to bolts will be required.

Back on topic.... bit reluctant to use silicone on it in case it blocks a galary but might have no option here.
 
I know what you are saying but I bought mine with a full main dealer history & it's been problematic from day one. I only had it a month and the dpf properly spat its dummy out. Forgot to mention that in the earlier post.

I really don't get how people are so defensive of VW group cars? Try working on a Subaru and the engineering is another level to this! It's all 'special tool' this all the time. Seems as if they have to engineer special tools all the time as their designers can work out that parts are gonna need to come off & acess to bolts will be required.

Back on topic.... bit reluctant to use silicone on it in case it blocks a galary but might have no option here.


Having worked on many many subaru's, and being old enough to remember (and worked on many) L series and brat pickups, i can safely say VAG cars are light years ahead, but thats just my opinion from 23yrs in the motor trade

back on topic, sometimes a car can have FSH but not looked after by the owner (in this case the one before you) Turbos, DMFs are common issues on most makes (thank god you didnt buy a ford or peugeot HDI)

Im trying to work out if you have a 1.9 (4 bolt) or a 2lt (3 bolt) reason i ask is the 2lt is a breeze to change, the 1.9 the 2 lower 5mm bolts are a pain, but if you undo the coolant flange its a 5 min job, as for sealer, if you must use that the get a tube of VAG white sealer, smear a very thin layer on the gasket on the side that sits on the head, that is all you need, but like i said above use a genuine gasket as they are the only ones that seal properly
 
It's the 2.0 litre 170bhp pd. 3 bolt tandem pump.

Seriously you think VW group are better engineered than Subaru? Everything seems to be made of plastic on the damn things! All I can tell you are my experiences of a golf, polo & A3. Even once a simple job like bleeding brakes on the polo...it went & snapped the bleed screw after plenty of wd40. Once something is rusted on vw group car you are screwed. I've had suspension legs off Subaru rusted solid & their high tensile bolts don't shear like the chocolate German rubbish seems to. The rust seems to be stronger than their so called high tensile bolts.

I'm just lost for words that the general public at large will put up with this engineered rubbish. When I was a kid everything was made in Taiwan & usually fell in bits......how the heck have we ended up with this type of junk on our cars?

Yep you are right about the dmf on most cars being problematic but why make a car that needs one in the first place? Get the gearbox components made out proper stuff able to handle the power and torque. It's down to car manufacturers making cars that need more parts all the time & don't get me started on long life servicing & sealed for life gearboxes.

This makes interesting reading....
http://m.whatcar.com/car-news/honda-named-uks-reliable-used-car-manufacturer-2015/1342848

Fiat in 14th & Audi in 34th!

We all have our opinions but mine is that this junk is going after this repair.....as you can probably guess from my tone I'm beyond disappointed with my ownership experience.
 
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My, you really have got a 'Friday Afternoon' car! My cars go as far back as pre-war Austin sevens and Ford crap and I can honestly say my Tdi is the best car I've ever had (and for the longest time)! 5 years and one door lock - apart from normal maintenance - can't be bad.
 
My, you really have got a 'Friday Afternoon' car! My cars go as far back as pre-war Austin sevens and Ford **** and I can honestly say my Tdi is the best car I've ever had (and for the longest time)! 5 years and one door lock - apart from normal maintenance - can't be bad.

I've had this 3 years & it's been the longest 3 years of my life. Turned me grey this car I tell ya. I've nursed it & metaphorically fed it caviar & champagne & it's been a total basket case! I've now got to stage when people ask what I drive in conversation having to stop & count to 10. My last two cars totally eclipsed this & I personally can see why vw & Audi are so far down the reliability surveys in the uk.
 
Having worked on many many subaru's, and being old enough to remember (and worked on many) L series and brat pickups, i can safely say VAG cars are light years ahead, but thats just my opinion from 23yrs in the motor trade

back on topic, sometimes a car can have FSH but not looked after by the owner (in this case the one before you) Turbos, DMFs are common issues on most makes (thank god you didnt buy a ford or peugeot HDI)

Im trying to work out if you have a 1.9 (4 bolt) or a 2lt (3 bolt) reason i ask is the 2lt is a breeze to change, the 1.9 the 2 lower 5mm bolts are a pain, but if you undo the coolant flange its a 5 min job, as for sealer, if you must use that the get a tube of VAG white sealer, smear a very thin layer on the gasket on the side that sits on the head, that is all you need, but like i said above use a genuine gasket as they are the only ones that seal properly

Don't suppose you know part number or name of this white sealant do you? Just ordered a genuine tandem pump gasket from my local skoda dealership & mentioned this vw white sealant & he didn't know what I meant? Said there are loads of different sealants. Needed a part number or name.
 
Red Hermetite is not silicone. It's specifically for fuel sealing, dries very quick.
 
Don't suppose you know part number or name of this white sealant do you? Just ordered a genuine tandem pump gasket from my local skoda dealership & mentioned this vw white sealant & he didn't know what I meant? Said there are loads of different sealants. Needed a part number or name.


Not off hand but im going into work tomorrow so will post up the Part number mate
 
Combined vacuum & fuel pump bolted on side of engine. Whilst we are at it....which idiot designed a combined pump? It was bound to fail at some point.

To be honest I'm not feeling the vw/Audi love at all. Designed by idiots & made to fail.

Is this the fuel pump driven from the cam belt? If so for some reason mine makes a really metallic ticking noise, is there a cam inside?
 
Is this the fuel pump driven from the cam belt? If so for some reason mine makes a really metallic ticking noise, is there a cam inside?
Na it's mounted on other side of engine from cam belt. Combined vacuum & diesel fuel pump that camshaft driven via a sort of slot or key way.
 
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Thanks Phil. Fingers crossed a genuine VW gasket & light skim of gasket sealant / sump pan sealant will sort this agro out.
It worked a treat on my 170 and the missus 105, both had leaking gaskets
 
Just had another go at tandem pump with new gasket & VW silicone but still not sure it's repaired? 20nm on bolts & silicone on gasket. Turns out bottom bolt was slightly cross threaded & ive had to take coolant pipe off to get to bottom bolt to run a tap up it to try to rescue the thread. That coolant flange is in the way....which nugget designed that tandem pump & coolant flange there? I used a ball end Allen key originally & still crossed threaded it! Ran tap up it but bolt in thread could be better. Stuck some heat proof thread lock on it but proof will be over time if it holds & doesn't leak. Started car back up & it smoking like a ****** from exhaust now! I really do hate VW engineering it's pants! This will be my very last VW group car & that's a promise.
 
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Is there a internal gasket onto the cam think mine is leaking from the gasket but if I have it off then do both at the same time. By the looks of thing the coolent coupler looks like it needs to come off to reach the bottom bolt so need to drain the coolent down to get to it. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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