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Stereo Upgrade Help Please..?

iyrix Mar 28, 2010

  1. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Hi Guys,

    Going to upgrade my stereo. I've searched through a few posts but cant seem to get the answer im looking for. I have bought the facia plate and that is fine, now i just need to make sure i get the right ISO. I thought i had a rear amp, but looking at the connections im not sure now. I know it has 10 speakers and there is a mini little sub in the back.

    Can anyone tell me how i keep all speakers working with my new stereo? Will the following ISO work?

    [​IMG]

    The RED connector looks like it wont fit...

    These are the connections on the back of the standard stereo...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks in advance for the help!

    Cheers
    Graham
     
  2. simon.m

    simon.m Active Member

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    i would have thought the adaptor you have for the new head unit would power all the old speakers with out you having to change any thing more.
    but i maybe wrong. id have a look in halfords for the right adaptor.
     
  3. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    I will have a look tomorrow, thanks.

    Any idea what the little plug is - brown/pink?

    Cheers
    Graham
     
  4. simon.m

    simon.m Active Member

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    id think it was for hands free or multiplayer or maaaayyybeeee for an ipod but that really is a guess
     
  5. 1wheelonly

    1wheelonly cabriolet VCDS Map User

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    the large red plug is a female which will take the largest black plug thats in the stereo above.
    the brown/pink plug is an aerial
     
  6. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    I am assuming you do not have BOSE and from your picture of the adaptor....

    The red plug (Connector I) fitted to your male black plug will feed the car rear amp with,
    1=Rear Left signal
    3=Signal 0v
    6=Amp switch-on
    2=Rear Right signal
    I would guess these pre-amp signals plug into the new head unit via the two phone connectors seen.

    The other ISO-plugs are as follows based on what pins are visible,
    Audi-Connector II
    3=Front Right Speaker +
    4=Front Right Speaker -
    5=Front Left Speaker +
    6=Front Left Speaker -

    Audi-Connector III (signals written on your head unit label)
    [The pins marked * are for reference only and are not included in the adaptor below the red plug]
    *1=Bose Ground
    *2=Alarm Security Ground
    *3=K-Line (Diagnostics)
    4=nc ??
    5=nc ??
    6=nc ??
    7=+12v (Main Power always ON)
    8=0v (Main Power Ground)

    nc=not connected >> no idea's what these connect to in this adaptor loom??

    The power connector could be a problem as your new head unit will require a switched +12v ignition signal. Audi A4/B6 do not have this at the radio connector as this is done via a CAN-BUS - simple soluition is to take a feed from the fusebox. Also, the new headunit will have a "illumination" facility - for Audi this comes off the CAN-BUS also - on ISO this is fed via the power connector. These two signals could be any of the unexplained connections on the power plug?

    A "normal" ISO power connector is as follows:
    1=GALA (Speed signal)
    2=Telephone Mute
    3=Reverse Signal (from reversing light)
    4=+12v permanent feed
    5=Auto Aerial (+12v put aerial up, max 150mA)
    6=illumination
    7=+12v Ignition Signal
    8=0v, Ground

    There are many adaptors out there claiming to be Audi compatible - but they can't be without sourcing various signals from other parts of the car to be truly 100% compatible!
     
  7. simon.m

    simon.m Active Member

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    i thought the black plug on the right hand side was the aerial as i dont have the pink and brown one ?
     
  8. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Thanks for that, Will i need to get a aerial booster as well for the Pink/brown lead or do i use the other next to it?

    Thanks again.
     
  9. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    I know i dont have the "bose" setup, but what do i actually have? Whats the standard 10 system called?

    Thanks
     
  10. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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  11. AndyMac

    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    It's called standard or non Bose, 2 speakers in each door (yes they count the tweeters as speakers), dash speaker (which you need to disconnect as it's tuned to the frequency of a baby crying) and the sub.
    To disconnect the centre speaker just snip one of the skinny wires coming off the brown ISO plug.
    Yes that adapter is the right one for your ISO aerial, you need to connect the flying lead on it to the power antenna lead on the new HU.
    You will find that the rears and sub are not very loud compared to the fronts as you now have over twice the power going to the fronts over the stock HU, so you'll need to fade to rear quite a bit or rewire the rears straight to the hu and by pass the puny 2 x 20w rear amp.
     
    Stue pot likes this.
  12. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    The A4/B6 aerial works off the rear screen which actually comprises multiple (four) aerials via an aerial switch box an amplifier, this aerial system is called "Diversity".
    The idea is that the aerial with the strongest signal is utilised at all times.
    The black iso-aerial connector actually carries the RF signal to the headunit. The small brown/pink connector is used to feed power to the aerial amplifier switch box - if this cable is not connected then the aerial switch box/amplifier has no power and will pass through the default aerial signal with no amplification resulting in poor FM reception.
    I believe the above linked adaptor you indicate will pass the necessary power to the rear window aerial amplifier system resulting in optimum Radio reception.
     
  13. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Thanks for all the help guys,

    Bought all the parts, will work on this when they arrive. Will do a "how to" guide as well.

    Cheers
    Graham
     
  14. scott b

    scott b Active Member VCDS Map User

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    if your fitting a new headunit or having extra iso conectors behind the headunit, its a lot easie if you remove the glove box as this will give you more access to the rear of the headunit to help get it back in without all the iso conectors getting in the way
     
  15. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Hey guys,

    Now im a little stuck, parts turned up as above....

    Took the stereo out and found that the wires dont line up with the ones on the ISO.

    This shows the car wires:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and this shows the ISO adaptor, which matches up with the new stereo.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I wont be able to get a test light till tomorrow, can anyone shed any light on what i need to do?

    Cheers
    Graham
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2010
  16. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    Read post #6 it documents all connections - you need to work out what is available from the Audi loom and what the adaptor is given you - or not as the case may be?
    As previously stated I doubt if the adaptor you have is plug & play for the A4/B6.
     
  17. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Thanks, i understand. Im going to get a test a light in the morning to see what power is going where. hopefully then i can get somewhere.

    Cheers
     
  18. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Are you doing the iginition live mod for an after market stereo?
     
  19. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Im not sure what that is? Sorry...
     
  20. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    From memory*
    The audi takes information from the can-bus iirc as to whether or not the engine is on. So the stereo works. So there is no iginition live for the aftermarket stereo. Finding a switched live is easy enough. But if you're like me, i wanted to it to turn off when i took the keys out. There is a fine red wire that runs down the steering column, i took a feed from this. Into a standard head light relay, and ran power that way.
     
  21. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    For my switched Live, (originally for TomTom / Snooper / Parrot Bluetooth), I used a spare fuse slot in the fuse box where one side already had the switched live feed, just needed a repair wire in the empty side of the fuse and a suitable fuse - this provided a new switched live which I could easily isolate via a fuse if necessary.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2010
  22. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Did that make it work with the ignition off? Till the keys are taken out?
     
  23. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    ok, there must be a permanent live though for memory?

    Nothing is ever easy!
     
  24. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    I can't see how this little Ebay find can work as not actually connected to CAN-BUS from description - hence I have removed it from my response as have no experience with it and would not want to mis-lead any body into purchasing it.
     
  25. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    Permanent live for the Radio is no problem on the Audi loom - that is always there.
     
  26. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    I think it pics up pulses in the volts to tell its running.
    There is a perm live, but no switched live. So it'd be on all the time.
     
  27. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    That is the one down side on the fuse box source - key needs to be turned to ignition on - it does not sense the key being inserted in the key slot, so your solution is better for anybody wanting to duplicate an OEM +12v live feed.
    I only still have the Snooper and i-pod charging running off my switched live,as have upgraded to RNS-E and OEM BT.
     
  28. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Do you mean the whole loom?
     
  29. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    What do you mean by "head light" relay? also did illumination work once you had fitted the stereo?

    Thanks
     
  30. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Mine was a Sony headunit, so just illuminates anyway.
    By headlight relay i mean a relay that has a switch live (red wire from column) an earth, a 12v live and a output to the stereo.
     
  31. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Great thanks.. WIll work on this in the morning. I never thought it would be so involved! lol

    Did you manage to keep your rear speakers and little sub working?

    Sorry for all the questions!
     
  32. scott b

    scott b Active Member VCDS Map User

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    or just join the red and yellow wires together and then put them both to the live wire, this way you have the option of putting the radio on with out have the key in the ignition. plus saves looking for wires
     
  33. Woorlord

    Woorlord shifting to Hyperspace... . VCDS Map User

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    I was referring to the Ebay find which claims to provide a switched 12v supply via a small black box. I was under the impression it connect to the CAN-BUS and then provides the switched live by looking at the respective CAN-BUS commands - but this was not the case, hence the link removal. (Original >>Link Here<<)
     
  34. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    hi guys, managed to get it all working using the feed from the steering colum.

    Thanks for all your help. will stick pictures up later when i've got it all back together.

    cheers
    g.
     
  35. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Took me longer than i expected and the weather didn't help but anyway.. thanks to everyone on here its done.

    I bought the ISO and Aerial adaptor above. I only had to make a few changes to get everything working.

    To get the ignition 12v feed i took the advice from "BlackQuat" this worked perfectly. The small red feed running down the steering column. Now the stereo turns off when the key is removed.

    1st i removed the plastic cover under the steering column, this gave me access to all the wires.

    [​IMG]

    Selected and tested the red wire with a test light

    [​IMG]

    Added a feed to send to the stereo

    [​IMG]

    On the new ISO i cut the yellow 12V feed and attached the wire from the ignition.

    [​IMG]

    I also need to add power for the electric aerial and the rear amp/speakers. You can take this from the stereo feeds. Normal blue wire.

    Few pictures of it finished.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks to everyone for your help.

    The only other thing i would like to know how to do is get the illumination working when i turn the headlights on..

    Cheers
    Graham
     
  36. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    What illumination is that fella? Don't they just light up anyway?
    Nice write up bud, i would get a relay on that red wire feed though, its alot of draw from such a small wire. You don't want to melt it.
     
  37. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    The illumination would make the lights go dull when the headlights are on. I'm not worried about it

    Can you please point me in the right direction of what I need to buy? I take it I just connect it on that feed line?

    Thanks
    Graham.
     
  38. AudiLeon

    AudiLeon Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Need to get a http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270556646206
    [​IMG]
    Following the picture above.
    30 From Perm live
    86 Takes feed from your column,
    85 To ground
    87 To headunit.
    and if the relay you buy has it...
    87a To nothing.

    Anyone whos ever suffered the terrible headlights in a MK2 golf will know this well lol
     
  39. iyrix

    iyrix Member

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    Thanks, will get on that tomorrow.

    I'll keep it off till I get that in.

    Thanks again.
     
  40. slepy

    slepy Extremely smart and handsome person. VCDS Map User

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    Quick question.
    Can you turn your cd player on when key is not in?
     

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