Stereo trouble

Ro55

Ro55

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I heard its been abit of trouble fitting a aftermarket stereo, so i bought a loom PLUG n PLAY

well it dont even power up the stereo.

https://audiovisualworld.co.uk/conn...-system-interface-amplified-adaptor-lead.html

Any clues?

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Not done this, but as I understand it there's no ignition accessory feed at the stereo, just a permanent live. That's because the standard radio uses the cars can bus to sense when the ignition is turned on. There's a write-up on here from a few weeks back, showing how to wire a relay to provide a switched feed to the stereo. You could jump the live across just to see if the unit is working.
 
God has refused you electricity , he realises that with the amount of water you seem to attract it would mean you would be meeting him very soon and he obviously doesn't want that yet. :ghost::haha:
 
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Typical,i bought the blinking loom cause i thought id get away with that,buggars dont tell you that do they.
i aint got a clue,just about do the plug n play lol,i hate wires

how and where do i get the live to the stereo? did that write up you same loom as mine?
 
haha your probably right!

hids went in ok though lol

Darran said:
God has refused you electricity , he realises that with the amount of water you seem to attract it would mean you would be meeting him very soon and he obviously doesn't want that yet. :ghost::haha:
Click to expand...
 
The original stereo has all the filter gizmos for power and antenna purposes so you'll need to fit some inline ones to compensate.
 
i havent got a clue,ive got the bits stuff to do it just no idear...all the gear no idear lol
 
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if you have a permanently live at the connector for stereo you could also just link from that to the switched live enabling you to turn on whenever you wished.. its vital you remember to also turn stereo off however as will always be on otherwise..., also probably wise to put an in-line fuse in the line, probably overkill, but can't hurt ;)
 
ideally id like to keep it how it is,on until the keys removed,just to be awkward.
 
Yes, I have used the same wiring loom to yours in the guide I wrote.

Unfortunately it is a horribly fiddly job. A simpler method although won't have the desired outcome is to ad a switched live from the fuse box, but then the stereo will only work when the engine is on.

You could always take your car to a car audio place and have them ad a power line. I paid £25 originally to have a switched live fitted, but I found it annoying.
 
is there a diagram for where the wires go from the relay on the adapter loom?
im going to buy that relay.ive got wire and stuff,just knowing where to put everything lol
 
No diagram, read the how to, it's all in there.

Pin #87 on the relay goes to the switched live on the stereo most likely the yellow wire which should have a bullet connector on.
 
VCDS?

All your doing is taking an instruction from the steering column small wire to signal when the key are in the ignition and then using a permanent live to power the relay.
 
yeah i heard aftermarket stereos can play up with a vcds scan. ill soon tell
 
Aftermarket Radios

Now people hardly ever put older stock radios in newer cars. What they often do is install better after-market radios. And they most often do this by using an aftermarket adapter-harness which plugs right into the car's harness, so they don't have to cut up the car's harness. Trouble is, some of the aftermarket harnesses faithfully reproduces the older, non-diagnostics radios with a loop of wire between +12 and the pin where the K-line is on newer models. So you install your fancy new radio with one of these and everything works fine until.. somebody plugs in a scan tool.

The Problem

Nothing in the car cares if the K-line is shorted to +12. The K-Line is not used for intra-vehicle communications. But a scan-tool initializes a communications session by pulling the K-line to ground. The K-line is supposed to have some voltage on it, but through a high-impedance source. If the K-line has "hard" +12 on it, something has to give! What "gives" is usually the scan-tool's output driver for the K-line. And fixing a VAG-1551/1552 with a blown K-line driver is expen$ive! But the ISO-COM PC<->Car interface adapter that we provide with our VAG-COM software has a small user-replaceable fuse protecting the K-Line output driver, and there's a spare fuse taped under the lid of the little box. No big worries there..:) Ourother interfaces use output drivers that are thermally protected against shorts. They don't need a fuse. If you plug them into a car with the K-line shorted to +12, they simply won't work in that car, but it won't hurt them either.
​
 
Ohhhh if you look at the wiring diagram on the back of your OEM unit to identify which the K line is on the cars loom it will most likely not connect to anything on the connects2 loom.
 
you should make the looms to sell with a diagram for idiots like me lol
 
Nope, these ones..



Pretty sure the yellow you leave connected in the loom and the red you connect to the wire you feed from the relay. If your radio doesn't have memory you just swap them round.

Haha, I'm rubbish at electronics, just relaying what others have told me.
 
as Paul said ^^^ yellow is connected to Permanent live, red is connected to a switched live from ignition/ fusebox etc
 
All i seem to be doing lately lol,nice to be able to help others even if its not car related hahaha
 
Sorry only just seen this, although hopefully I answered some in your PM.

But just a thought, when I first got mine going I thought I had same issue until I tweaked the bass levels and ramped up the volume and then the sub was kicking!
 
You got the right lead? Mine has 2 phono plugs that connect to the headunit pre-outs, that go to the standard sub.
 
@Chrismawa what stereo setup do you have? i have a concert single din. with rear amped speakers and sub.
if your the same what lead are you using?
cheers
 
Looks like your lead is for a set up where the speakers are powered from the headunit only. There should be phono plugs that go to the sub for the rear speakers.
 
With my a3 I had a lead that has the phono leads to connect to the factory amp. That was a non Bose 8P.

I also bought a canbus steering adapter I believe. This wasn't used for the steering controls but enabled the canbus features like light dimming and powering off with ignition

This was the best for me because it prevented me having to cut any wires.

The only issue was that the factory stereo produced a much louder sound. Even on full volume with the sony head unit it was particularly loud
 
How do i connect my sub to that lead then? i have no phono leads coming from my sub

Chrismawa said:
Looks like your lead is for a set up where the speakers are powered from the headunit only. There should be phono plugs that go to the sub for the rear speakers.
Click to expand...
 
Der silly me,going to ring them now,see if they will exchange it.
 
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