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Started the 2.1 today but....

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Andrew@A.L.D, Apr 17, 2010.

  1. S3 Nattie
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    S3 Nattie Quattro ist für sissies

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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    Well another code has just come up, 16705/P0321/000801 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal which is likely to be the reason why my car kept cutting out and struggling to restart straight away.

    Still getting the 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 fault but hopefully after changing the engine speed sensor/crank sensor this code will go away.

    Also, not sure if these were the right measuring blocks but in block 90 and 91 in vag com the adjustment field on both 90 and 91 were displaying off. Does that mean the timing is not being retarded or advanced, not sure.....
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2010
    #41
  2. badger5
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    badger5 www.badger5.co.uk Site Sponsor

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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    cam timing is out as said before, although implausable signal could well be engine reluctor sensor failing, which would stall the car for sure. if plug is ok on it then new sensor may well fix it for you
    it will idle surprisingly well no gauge of it being out by one tooth.. ecu's telling you its wrong cos it is
    #42
  3. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    Ok well I done the timing again today and still got the error. Timed the crank and flywheel right but not 100% sure on the cam timing. The notch on the cam is on the end of the tooth and I have lined the cam very very slightly to the left of the notch on the valve cover so its lined up on the same tooth, hope someone understands what I mean.

    The car doesnt stall anymore even though I had the engine speed code (deleted and not come back), only getting the 17748 code. Going to change the engine speed sensor tomorrow and go from there.
    #43
  4. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    I bet the timing between the cams is still out

    I had the same problem and ended up getting it right in the end, its not the easiest job to do
    #44
  5. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    No, its very annoying doing the timing again. Every time I went to put the belt over the cam, the crank would turn slightly and would lose the timing so had to do it all over again.

    Do anyone have a pic of the timing on the valve cover as I cannot get mine bang on.
    #45
  6. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    Mine is a b***h to time up as i have a steel flywheel with no timing marks, you can't see the marks on the crank pulley and i have a adjustable cam pulley.
    #46
  7. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    Lol, that sounds fun. Ifs the crank didnt move as soon as you pull the belt over the cam it would be all fine. If this sensor doesnt get ride off this code I will take it to a garage, cant be bothered doing the timing again
    #47
  8. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    Stick it in gear and put the hand brake on so doesn't move
    #48
  9. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    Did that but still get a bit of slack and the crank still rotates slightly. Just been reading about the bicycle method of putting the belt back on so if I do it again il try that.

    What route do you take to get the belt on. I put the belt on the crank, water pump and tensioner roller first then I pull the belt over the cam.
    #49
  10. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 25, 2010]
    #50
  11. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    That tool is to push the piston down on the tensioner to get the pin in it to lock it in place ye.

    The pin is already in the tensioner before I attempted to put the belt on so the belt is a slack as it gets.
    #51
  12. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    Just found this on SCN forum and just wondering if anyone can comfirm if this is true or not.

    "1.8 t's are always half a tooth out. i THINK with the crank at tdc the cam should be half a tooth out to the left. with the cam half a tooth out to the right then the timing will be a tooth out. im only 90% sure it should be half tooth out to the left tho, it could be right"
    #52
  13. Matt82
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    Matt82 Active Member

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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    i dont get how it could be half a tooth out.

    to be half a tooth out youd have to sit one tooth on another

    it would then fall onto the next tooth... making it a whole tooth out

    [​IMG]
    #53
  14. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    I think it could be because the notch on valve cover is always in the middle of a tooth on the cam notch, that could be why its out half a tooth.

    The notch on the cam is on the end of a tooth.
    #54
  15. badger5
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    badger5 www.badger5.co.uk Site Sponsor

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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    what engine is this picture of?
    #55
  16. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    No, that became really obvious, really fast when I filled the expansion taken with water and it just came lording out of the head to block join.

    That wasn't the best day I've ever had....
    #56
  17. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    That fault has got engine timing out written all over it....
    #57
  18. Welly
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    Welly VX220 SC Driver :)

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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    Looks like a Vauxhall C20 series to me....
    #58
  19. homer_s
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    [Jul 26, 2010]
    i'd agree with that
    #59
  20. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 27, 2010]
    Ok, had a look at the belt last night and realised the belt was slowly working itself to the outer edge of the cams etc and looked like the belt was too tight as the teeth were wearing on the belt so obviously something wasnt right.

    Looked at the timing etc and and all was aligned so took the belt off and checked everything was torqued up correctly but still couldnt fathom why the belt was coming off. I then noticed the tensioner roller (not sure the exact name) would have been removed when I sent the head of to a well known cylinder head specialist in Cardiff to check the head over, even though I done my own few tests. (by the way no damage was done at all when the belt snapped, very lucky).

    I noticed the roller was protruding way out from the head/block. Took it all apart and found a pretty thick washer behind it pushing it out from the head/block, this was the reason why the belt was coming off and too tight and possibly the reason why my timing was aligned but the ECU thinking it was out bringing up the code.

    Put it all back in and aligned it once again and its now running very nicely and the code has not reappeared (touch wood).

    Nathan
    #60

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