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Started the 2.1 today but....

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Andrew@A.L.D, Apr 17, 2010.

  1. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    It engine sounds sweet but its the cooling thats the problem

    I think there is still a bit of air lock, the fans don't want to kick in and the temp just goes up

    Just want to cover all problems that may happen?

    Will i have put the thermostat in the wrong way and not known i have done so?

    Will i need a new fan switch?

    anything will help
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  3. Imteyaz
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    Imteyaz 6th Gear

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Have you tried running the car with the expansion cap off to help any airlock to escape? (obvious one I know, it's easier to start with the easiest fixes then move on to the more awkward ones).

    I didn't think that the thermostat would fit the wrong way round but open to other peoples better qualified opinions on that one.

    What do the hoses feel like? are they all getting hot or are some still cool? Do the pipes feel hard (pressure build up?).
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  4. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    I have run it with the cap off and it just bubbles away, just gets hotter and hotter, all pipes seam hot
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  5. Imteyaz
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    Imteyaz 6th Gear

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    I take it you tried squeezing the pipes too whilst running the engine? I suppose you could always check the stat to see if that is the problem but bubbling is normally associated with broken waterpump impellers causing lack of / limited circulation. Has the waterpump been replaced?
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  6. Imteyaz
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    Imteyaz 6th Gear

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Just found this response from Vortex in response to a guy who has similar probs:

    "when the car is at operating temperature, is there a difference in the temperatures of the upper and lower radiator hoses? Did the car start overheating before you replaced the coolant flange. I would start by checking the upper and lower radiator hoses, if the upper is HOT and the lower is cold, i would suspect the waterpump or thermostat. remove the thermostat and inspect the waterpump with a small mirror. Replace the thermostat and re-check the cooling system.

    If both of the hoses are hot, and the fans are not operating when up to temp, i would start by checking the green fuses, in the fuse box on top of the battery. the battery boxes start to melt, and make poor contact. remove the 3 green fuses and check the inner terminals for corrosion and burn spots. Don't rule out the possibility of an air pocket in the system not turning on the fan switch or a bad fan control module."

    HTH mate,
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  7. badger5
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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    heater in car on full also?
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  8. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Put the heaters on full inside as hot as i could and there blowing hot

    Run it with the cap off and just gets hotter and bubbles over when fans are meant to kick in also i'm coming up with a fault code of 17748 camshaft/crankshaft position sensors (B2) out of sequence

    Checked the new thermostat and thats the right way round and i also fitted a new water pump when engine was build
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  9. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Could it be the fan switch? but as i said before that fans don't kick in?
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  10. badger5
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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    cam position sensor is a pain.. out of synch either on cam to cam and/or cam to crank..
    arse of a job to redo and check

    hatefull..
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  11. badger5
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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    if a/c is turned on fans should start on low speed.. which checks fan function

    what water temp does engine think its got on vagcom, vs instruments.?
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  12. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Cam to cam was spot on i think its cam to crank thats out

    Don't have vagcom, the instrument keeps going up and doesn't stop
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  13. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    Water pipes are soft but hot and same with the lower hoses but when i checked the thermostat hardly any water came out?
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  14. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    #13
  15. S3KO4
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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    I had green fuse blown and the temp went up with loud warning beebs, so it fan was not coming on at all. hope it is simple.
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  16. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 17, 2010]
    I'm hoping its the green fuses

    Anyone know what amps they are?
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  17. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    Ok not a happy bunny

    Fixed the fan and the ABS, it was the multi plug that plugs to the fuse box on top of the battery.

    Thats the good bit the bad bit is the engine is smoking now so i thought i drain some oil off as there was a bit to much in and its still smoking

    It didn't smoke the first time i started it up but i came to it this morning and its started smoking?

    Its white smoke so i'll have to look into that?
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  18. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    Hummm... white smoke and over heating.... head gasket?

    <tuffty/>
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  19. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    Thats what i was thinking?

    I it is i just hope the head doesnt need a skim

    I could of also damaged the head gasket when putting the head on???
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  20. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    The are pretty tough tbh... you didn't do what Welly's mate did and put the head gasket on upside down? LOL

    <tuffty/>
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  21. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    No not at all lol

    I just done have time to do it now as i'm behind on my work and might drop it off at a garage to get it fixed as i need it asap now
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  22. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    bummer hope you get it sorted..:icon_thumright:
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  23. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    Just wiped the cylinder head off in a hour and the bores were full of antifreeze and you can see were the gasket had warped from getting to hot

    Just got to order some new parts again
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  24. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    do you know how its happened? you dont want a repeat....maybe get the head skimmed?
    #23
  25. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    The plug that plugs into the little fuse box on top of the battery wasn't connected properly, that plug controls the fans and ABS, The car then overheated on the spot i didn't notice it over heating until it started to beep and steam a little, i stopped the car and put it away so when i came to it the next morning a lot of water had been dumped into the bores.

    The head has been skimmed prior to the build and have just checked it now and it seams to be fine and true and as tuffty said there pretty tuff the heads
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  26. badger5
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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    for just idling thats a surprising fail for temps on idle..
    i always watch guage and startup with vagcom connected to keep an eye on things, whilst also going all round it with torch looking for smoke, drips etc etc

    done it many times, and i always get nervous starting a fresh build/install....

    sorry you have hit a problem so soon.

    bill
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  27. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Apr 18, 2010]
    Its didn't help with the fans not working at the time

    To be honest Bill i think i may of damaged the head gasket when i was putting the head on
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2010
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  28. S3 Nattie
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    S3 Nattie Quattro ist für sissies

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    Im having a similar problem. Just put my head back on and the engine seems to be smoking quite a bit at the back but I think that is because I put a new exhaust mani gasket and mani to turbo gasket on so think that maybe the cause for the smoking at the rear of the engine.

    The car also comes up with a 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 fault. The are a number of reasons for this fault but unsure which to try first.

    The first time I started the car it started fine and idled fine but smoked at the rear and sounded very tappy (read this maybe because the exhuast mani wasnt torqued up enough - 25nm) and then when the car got up to temperature it just cut out and wouldnt start back up till the engine was cold but then cut out again after a few minutes.

    Could I have damaged the head gasket when I put it back on and how would I know the gasket was put on the right way up. Any help would be great Nathan
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  29. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    Why was the head gasket changed?

    The 2.1 of mine is been rebuilt due to oil starvation to rod 4, oil has been going to it but not much

    The crank will have the works done to it and it will be fitted with Total seal piston rings
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  30. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    The head got taken off so replaced the gasket at the same time. It only seems to be smoking at the rear of the engine bay where the new gaskets were put in and smoked till the engine cut out which I believe maybe due to the crankshaft sensor.

    Would you happen to know why the engine was so tappy and does the crankshaft sensor relate to the engine cutting out and stuggling to start back up again and the 17748 fault code. Is there a way to check the head gasket is on the right way up.
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  31. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    The smoke will be from the new gaskets and will go away in time

    The engine shouldn't cut out, if the timing is out it will run like a pig. Have you got the timing right between the two camshafts and the camshafts to the crank?

    Tapping could be due to the timing been out the wrong oil?

    if the head gasket was wrong then you would get oil/water mix in the header tank or blue/white smoke out the exhaust
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  32. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    I do believe the smoke is from the new exhaust mani and turbo gasket but it taking ages to go away.

    The timing is fine I believe. The crank, cam gear and the 16 roller distance between the two end bearing caps are all lined up and the make on the flywheel was also used and they were all lined up and the car idles perfectly fine so assume the timings fine.

    There was a little bit of white smoke from the exhaust but nothing to worry about, mainly from it being stood for such a long time (3 weeks). Could a leaking exhaust mani cause the ticking. I tightened the mani up to 25nm and the mani to turbo 40nm. Also could the crank speed sensor be the cause for my engine randomly cutting out and not starting again or a while, 17748 I got does suggest it.

    Nathan
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  33. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    I still think its timing, a sensor wouldn't breaks down if stud for 3 weeks
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  34. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
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  35. Lee172
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    Lee172 GT3071

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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    I am having troubles with the same fault codes at the moment, i just had the cambelt done so im putting it down to the timing being out... my car seems to idle and run fine. some one said on another thread that the ecu will adapt so it will run ok, Its going back to the garage on monday so i will let you know the outcome.
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  36. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 23, 2010]
    the car idles perfectly fine and starts fine but stalls on its own randomly after a while. Surely if the timing was out the car wouldnt start vry well and idle roughly.

    The cambelt snapped and it did make a pop sounds as thought something just blown so i been thninking a sensor went when the cambelt broke ( on my drive idling the belt snapped ) and thats why i asked about the crank sensor as thats also a solution from vag com.

    I will check the timing again then first before i buy a sensor
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  37. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    That would be great if you could get back with your outcome. Does your car cut out randomly at any time as thats the main problem with mine, it starts and idles perfectly fine but cuts out when it wants which leads me to believe the crank sensor maybe at fault.

    Nathan
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  38. badger5
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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    if you have correlation error, your cam belt is off a tooth or so
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  39. badger5
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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    your cambelt snapped when the car was idling on your drive - really?!?!

    valves checked?
    #38
  40. Lee172
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    Lee172 GT3071

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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    Well i have the same codes as you but the symptoms are slightly different.. mine runs fine and idles well most of the time, which is what is confusing me, i thought if the timing was out it would run roughly??
    If you read the thread 'what have they done??' thats about what is happening with my car. When i go back i will deffo let you know .
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  41. S3 Nattie
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    [Jul 24, 2010]
    Ye, im a bit confused to as my car starts and idles fine. I thought it the timing was off the car would start and idle roughly which mine doesnt.

    Would anyone be able to tell me if the engine would cut itself off if the above code appeared because thats what my car is doing.

    Thanks
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2010
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