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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by StaceyS3, Feb 7, 2012.
Good fun this modding lark ;P
Known side effects:
The list continues....
It looks like the spring has been chattering/spinning eating the softer metal..
Yeah think that sounds very much like that could be the cause, might send an email to forge to see if they have seen this before at all?
Well went to attack the down pipe flange yesterday and plan was to remove TIP, chargepipe and couple other little bits in the way, undo the v-band just after the turbo then undo the manifold nuts and turbo should slide out.....yeah right the downpipe saga continues!!
Well got the v-band clamp off and could see a little seal/gasket between the two surfaces which though cool remember haywards telling me they put a seal in there called a flamering (which ive never heard of?)
Any hows had all the nuts off except one which you have to wind off as the turbo comes off and really couldn't get my head round why couldn't just pull the turbo away from the mani as should be able to
It was very close to the prop doughnut by this point as coming off at an angle with the bottom not as far off as the top so to be sure i undone the prop as well to find that it still wouldn't budge and was getting really baffled by this point and seemed to be the v-band that was holding it but really couldn't work out why...so a phone call to haywards confirms that there is a ring inside the bore of the v-band as well as the one you can see between the two faces
By this point was fkn fuming as that really defeats the whole idea of wanting the v-band there as the turbo and wastegate nuts are rather inaccessable and because of the different angles cant get either off without winding the studs out or dismantling the whole downpipe
So rebolted everything back up and managed to get 3 locknuts on the downpipe flange to get by and the car will be going back to haywards once again to modify the v-bands as they're first answer was why do you need to get the turbo off anyway and then said why dont you just put the nuts on in situ and said its the nature of some engines that the nuts vibrate off (well not if you use the correct ones!!)
Its besides the point why i want to get it off and i paid to have it more workable not the same or worse than the previous downpipe
Rant over for now but pissed off that couldn't trial fit the new unit, spent most of the day on it to not acheive a lot and that its got to got to them once again!
Well being a lovely day and being my first day off in just over a week i decided to get the car cleaned by the local foriegners and go out and enjoy her for a little while
Whilst i was out i thought id also try out my phone holder that i got at christmas for the track days i intend on doing this year, it came out a bit bouncy but heres a video on a private road of coarse
Audi s3 launch and run up to 120 - YouTube
And admittedly its not immaculate but heres some pics from after my little drive
Forgot to add that at 39-40 seconds on the video pretty sure is when the downpipe rubs / touches something
And ignore the big sigh at the end just is really good fun and adrenaline giving her some abuse
did you shut it off right at the end?
was liqui on egt measurement during that? - a lot of red showing
Car looks nice Stace. I'm really feeling multispoke wheels at the moment and I need to get a set.
I did start shut off and start braking a fair bit earlier than needed @24secs and coasted for a wee bit before actually braking again for the corner as is really decieving to where the end is as the road at that end is on a slight crest
And yeah the liquid is on egt's as i like to keep a bit of an eye on it, would use the multiguage function (i'll rephrase that really want to use the multi gauge function) but crash's like tuffty's
Hopefully this new turbo with the lot bigger hotside should bring them right down
After having my A8's on there it really made me want to get something to show the brakes off a little, and the fact thats its all legally declared now
I'm even considering now putting some porsche decals on the calipers as they used to be when i got them
How she used to look compared to now but i know you can see them i this pic but thats only because she's clean for once lol
And i actually remember saying to bill when i picked my car up in october about how much i loved these and ultralegs as he had an ibiza there on the same wheels, they did seem like fantasy and my chances of getting some where slim until i stumbled accross these for a scooby and got them dirt cheap
Might be worth dropping Jim an email and see if he will do a firmware update to the same as mine.... I had the oil pressure replaced with AFR... I use that multigauge all the time... (and doesn't crash :thumbsup
It looks awesome on those OZ's. How are the porsche brakes? Are you running the R32 discs?
Cheers sam got to admit I'm extremely happy with the oz's and yeah am running on plain ebc r32 discs, the kit I bought off of the bay did come with the Ecs 358mm discs but at the time needed it to look a bit more subtle and of coarse disc replacement this way is a lot easier and cheaper
Good choice of wheel, did you notice the weight difference...
Cheers Dave did notice a fair difference but can't compare to much as went from 18's to 19's but I expect once I put the old ones back on probably will feel heavy as now used to these
I am semi looking for some lightweight 18's as fitted a brand new set yoko ad08's to the a8 wheels and want to save them for track use as still got well over 3/4s of the tread left
After seeing hollies build thread its got me thinking about an oil cooler and was wondering what an acceptable oil temperature is?
The car will be tracked occasionally and gets a good hiding on the road but am wondering will i need an oil cooler with the gtx30 as just had a little thrash in mine and the liquid guage recorded a peak of 105 degrees oil temp?
105 is fine. From memory, decent oil won't degrade until 120/130+
Oil coolers can do more harm than good as many keep the oil at colder temps for longer which is a bad thing for a road car. I found even with the mocal thermostat, the oil took longer to warm up and never stayed at a decent (80 ish) temp.
Edit: Also you have me looking for Cayenne calipers now haha
your stat controller oil cooler should have worked fine.
water temps 90'c oil temps 80-95 range in line - what was wrong with this which makes you say it was too coldand causing issue?
Cheers sam and they do look good and work well although most will say they're over kill but they're also fitted to gt3rs's afaik which are considerably lighter than the cayenne, but reason I got these was got them cheap
Bill so do you think an oil cooler will be needed with my final set up?
Hopefully turbo etc will be getting bolted on mid next month so will then be aranging a mapping date once we've finalised spec etc? Will give you a call in the near future
It's the sort of area I don't mind going overkill in Plus if you're going to the effort and it's only a little bit extra then it's probably worth doing...
Bill, perhaps mine was faulty but even when closed it looked like oil could bypass the stat slightly so it would be cooling a little bit of oil even when it wasn't supposed to. Regardless, what I'm saying is 105 is fine for oil. A lot of people fit coolers when really, they're not needed...
Given you do give it some beans I would seriously consider it.. and if track use is ever on the cards, definately
oil temps on regular remapped 1.8t's will easily >120'c on track use..
my racecar runs a 13row mocal.. and @ race duration max I see is 108'c
as for downside, use a thermo sandwich plate and it should run fine. I've not seen a 1.8t run over cooled yet, lol... ferkin hot engines usually.
I forgot to ask: What brake lines are you using with the Porsche calipers?
I'm not entirely sure what lines they are as they came with the Calipers but lots of tuners will be able to supply you with them as I'm pretty sure they're the same as other porsche Calipers, but for more info on this set up I found the r32 mk4 forums really good as a lot of them use these Calipers as they mate with they're standard discs
Cheers bill think oil cooler will probably be on the cards not long after it's all mapped etc, does the average set up hurt the bank that much? As presume all need is cooler, piping and some form of mounting?
Oh and been meaning to add as much as I hate to say it Aragon was right and got a letter last week from fedex for a Â£58 bill which is fair enough but really pisses me of that fedex charged a fee of Â£10+ (can't remember exact amount) just as an admin/handling fee...cheeky fookers
I'll be keeping 1 beady eye on any oil cooler developments. I too spotted what Hollie had on her TT and thought I might need one.
I think the kit on Hollies TT is exactly the same as mine, I have a mocal 16 row cooler, with mocal press fit fittings and 80 degree thermo sandwich plate.
Got the whole lot for about Â£100 too brand new from a retailler.
Do you think a 10 row by 230mm cooler should be sufficient as got a friend who is changing his setup soon and will have an excess cooler
Where abouts did you get yours from prawn?
I would much rather go down the safe rather than sorry route if it's not to expensive as would prefer it being more than capable rather than not being able to cope
Well time for a little update, i think i have now got everything to roll on with the turbo change which providing work and wether permits (as will be doing it outside as usual) will be cracking on the 16th April as have got a week off
Heres a pic of most of the parts except some silicone and inlet mani which is at the machine shop still!
And also a big thanks to scottb5 for the caps
ps engine bay does need a cleap and touching up in areas which will hopefully be done mid month
I then i need some of your great guys opinions
Basically as some of you might know i am going to be porting my manifold to match the turbo housing, as the housing is a T3 modified to take a K26 flange and downpipe
I have 2 gaskets one of which is the oem multi layer gasket and a demon tweeks k26 gasket (i bought as though it would be better for modifying?)
The oem one is bigger but i imagine that by trying to port or cut it it will bugger it with burrs etc? heres a few pics how it sizes up to both flanges, as on the turbo flange are only loosing a couple of mm in the corners and at the sides sits flush
The demon tweeks one i think will be more porting friendly if i want to maximise the csa flow but the oem isn't far off full size just wil create a little step out if i port the mani to match
Any how heres how the demon tweeks one fares up, it will need modifying to fit on the mani as it is already as the bore isn't big enough
And then heres the 2 on top of each other
The other thoughts are to see if a T3 gasket will fit but not 100% sure on dimensions for hole spacing as seen contradicting sizes?
Cheers in advance guys
why not just use the OEM metal gasket and port both parts out to the size of the gasket, rather than trying to port the gasket out?
That was generally my thoughts as will be easier if ever need replacing and to be honest i like the oem gaskets as think the quality is pretty good campared to some so called uprated ones
But where the doubt is in my head is that the oem one isn't quite as big as the turbo flange in some areas
I know my paint skills are rather lacking but in my defence its not easy with a laptop pad
please dont use that pos spotted gasket
it will fail
I didn't have much faith in it but it was one of the only ones could find at the time besides oem and that wasn't a multilayer steel one as not sure if it will fudge the multilayer trying to port/cut it?
Whats you opinion on the porting of mani-turbo flange and gasket to be used as am very open to suggestions?
I would go gasketless mate tbh... I haven't run a gasket since the first one (a metal one at that and not the crappy fibre thing in your pic) went on mine...
Does gasketless tend to blow at all?
Do you put a very thin smear of that exhaust sealant that Bill uses on there or any thing? As for it to not blow i suspect the surfaces would have to be 100% flat (possible milled or ground finish)?
That would definately seem like my easiest option though and can poet the mani right out to a T3 and will hopefully help keep egts down
If the surfaces are perfectly flat (as they should be) then no... shouldn't blow... mines doesn't... you also effectivley have a locator/fire ring too...
I don't use any sealant, its just bolted on face to face...
I would be wary of how much metal you remove on the manifold though as that will be the hottest part of the the setup and removing too much metal will lead to cracksville
Cheers Paul set me at ease a bit now
Will hopefully be porting most of the flame ring away apart from a little at the top and bottom where you can see the cut outs in the turbine housing flange, around these areas the mani is 15-20mm thick but will be assessing this as i go/port i thinks
Christ, it's taken me like an hour to read this thread. Good read though:icon_thumright:.
Can't believe you took Affy away from doing his bloody car lol.
faces will need to be nice and flat stacey for gasketless. If they are it should be fine