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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by StaceyS3, Feb 7, 2012.
Read away my friend
Cheers mate, Andrew has done a fine job
Would like to give it a go myself but fear i may do more harm then good lol
The ME 7.5 tuning and possibilitys are constantly evolving to the point i've lost track
Bill is the multi boost maps something you would be happy putting on mine, won't need the gear based boost maps for obvious reasons...is there anything else currently in the pipe line?
Yeah dude +1 man never heard of horror stories
switchable maps fine.. yea.. pointless gear based for 4wd reasons yes
there is perhaps more on the way...
sorry.. one of my more abrupt replies.. soz
nm2b boxes seem to create carnage on cars here....
not something I would want to do to a customer car personally.
i thought that because of the fuel dumped it actually keeps things cooler than people believe?
No stress I know how it was suppose to come out lol
I understand that you've had bad experience and that's why you stay away from it!
Would have thought it would have kept things cooler in the block but think the problems occur with the fuel igniting in places fuel shouldn't be like prawn was saying with exhaust and turbo issues?
yeh well they work by promoting det. so i guess that is the really bad thing. but on a well built engine it shouldnt cause too much problem unless its done stupidly
I suppose that would be the main problem if i put it on....i wouldn't be able to contain myself flatshifting everywhere
erm... no... you need to read up on this some more me thinks
egt's sky rocket... exhaust manifold pressures are astronmical... sufficient to physically break valves, bend valves, snap off turbine wheels, bend wastegates.... Its Exploding in the exhaust manifold/turbo... Exploding... BANG...
Thank you for the comments on the head
I have been doing head work for many years now and every new head that i have never done gets lots of research and cut up at least 2 heads to see where the limits are. I want to look in to the 20v head a bit more so will be getting another scrap head to cut up.
I have a sort of a WOT box mapped into my ECU but i very rarely use it, I some times use the launch control for a bit of bang bang fun but not all the time. I have only used full throttle shifting once since its been mapped.
I do think the Miltex is a weak point of my build as its small diameter tube and massive back box with 180 deg bends inside so i will look into swapping it soon i hope
I think tuffty found that the miltek became a restriction at reasonably modest power didn't he? or is he now using a miltek back box again with 3'' centre section?
All the stories I mention above about wotbox's are from people I know, and have all happened within the last 3 months, and all within a few months of fitting the damned things. it's very real.
I keep getting exhaust basalt from inside the silencer on the back of my bumper and boot lid
This might be because of the tube size and the boost pressure i'm putting into the engine
Hopefully piper come up trumps in the new year and build a 3" system I requested. My details are on file and they're contacting me when they move onto Audi stuff. If they do then it'll make people's lives a lot easier instead of going custom.
I sent them another message along the lines of "You sorted my mate out" and they replied that they'd ask their manager to see what can be done. Felt a bit like a whining nob but if it saves $200, who cares. I'm ordering a load of other bits at the same time (rods, pistons, stroker bits) but that didn't seem to sway them. Did you get the bling fuel rail or just using OEM? Vacuum manifold?
Funny enough I was discussing with bill a couple of weeks ago about possibly going 3" all the way through when he does my downpipe
Various ideas in my head were
1. Modify the milltek back box and have 3" all the way to it
2. Keep the milltek cat back as it is and just have the 3" downpipe mating to the 2.75" centre section
3. Last option was to replace the lot with a complete 3" custom system
Mmmm what to do? Probably will all swing on funds at the time?
I rate go 3' all the way? But how will the 3' fit over the diff at the back?
It's always worth a go mate, shame I deleted the screenshots with the reduced one in the basket
I did get a wee bit trigger happy with the credit card as was going to just make up a vacuum Mani out of bits from work and order a couple of fittings if needed, but ended up with a hemi tb, billet fuel rail and vacuum Mani lol
3' all the way is my fav choice but will all be money dependent nearer the time, I'm sure the badger will be able to work a way round it if he hasn't done one before (pretty sure he did with tuffty's)?
That's always the thing with builds the 1st parts are full steam then you buy things you don't need, then as it comes to the end it slows down and you start to see where you can save, then kick yourself for the sh1t that will sit in the cupboard and not in the car
yep, pictures in his build thread of it
Definately the way this has gone, I've got loads of bits that will probably not go anywhere near my engine bay
The biggest bit that tends to get people with builds including myself is all the "littler" bits like bolts, gaskets, seals etc as they seem never ending and the cost just keeps going up and up
With my ex VR6 I went on a spending spree and bought anything off ebay that had a VR6 tag to it, I had to get a intervention from my mate to stop buying and actually start putting the things on the car lol
Ive got a straight through 3" system and its pretty tight round the rear diff, i requested them not to squash it ao it does sit abit low and with the car been lowered on collies it can scrap in speed bumps lol, looks damn cool though.
Sorry only just seen the other posts Miggz and Dani, I do have to try and wind myself in a bit on spending sometimes lol, and with regards to the exhaust system i think i will be trying to go for a full 3' system the more i think about it but will be discussing this with Bill nearer the time
After being messed about continuously and getting extremely fudged off without having a car for the power steering pipes i've given up on second hand options and have removed the offending pipe this morning to take to a mate at Wickham engineering which specialise in hydraulic hoses, hes either going to repair that damaged section or replace the whole thing and should be dropping it off later...so will see what he comes up with
A couple of pics of the car in its usual position and the damaged pipe
Can see where some muppet (me) cable tied the other PAS pipe to it and completely forgot about it....oops
Also managed to get hold of some wheels to replace my A8 reps for what i thought was a really good price and expected them to be in reasonable nick as the ad said "in good condition but be aware these are used with minor marks here and there" but no mention of a large dent or flatspot (photos dont do it any justice)
Do people know if these can be bent back at all (am bit dubious as would have thought it would only weaken them more?
Those are going to look sick on there! Its a pitty about the buckle but that can be bent back with out weakening it
Decent alloy wheel place should be able to sort it out mate, has it caused any cracks etc?
Cheers guys will look into getting it pulled back, its only the outer lip and hasn't effected the area where the tyre seals so would have thought it wouldn't be to hard for the right place to do it
Had thought i had got a bit of a bargin at Â£100 and will suite the car well in track form with the sticky tyres on it
I did trial fitting them earlier and they are stamped ET37 but am unsure if this is correct as they are scooby fitment which are usually right up in the 40's?
I'm currently running ET48 oz's with a front 25mm spacer and 30mm rear so would have thought 15mm front spacer would be correct to get a simular positioning of the wheel but there was absolutely no chance of them clearing the brakes
I then fitted them with the same 25mm spacer as i run on the oz's and have to say that seems more about right, have to say the brakes fill these wheels a lot better (although their so dirty can hardly see them in the pic)
Theres still not a lot of clearance with the 25mm spacer
A pic of each side comparing how far they stick out compared to the oz's
I got a rough measurment from the mounting face of each wheel to the outer lip of the rim using a straight edge and tape, the oz wheel came in just over 17cms where as the TD came in at just over 16cms
This has led me to believe that they are probably the same offset considering the oz's are 8' wide and the TDs are 7.5' wide but really won't know if i'll be able to get away with it until i stick some tyres on and try it
Sorry if waffled on a bit but is quite hard to explain
It clears the brakes awsome and drool on how it will look with the slicks on!
Are you gona leave them that colour?
Those brakes do make wheel fitment a bit of a pain in the arse eh? I run ET10 on the front now, with an 8.5" rim. I think my issue is my wheels are 5x120 so the center is a little larger.
Sod the wheels, what's happening with the engine and the calendars.
Yeah think will leave them nice and bright as think the contrast with a black car will look the nuts
Will definately be tight with the ad08s on there as the profile of the tyre is a lot more square so will have to wait and see if it rubs
Am slacking a bit with the updates but not got a great deal can do till get some cams now, do want to mock it all up to get a rough idea of what AN fittings to order for the lines and to see how fitment is with the wastegate tot the box
Funny you should say about calendars as just got next years and I can say it does look good
Mine stick out past the front wings and hit very rarely over big dips. It's about an 3/4-1 inch from tyre to wing. Yours looks lower though from what I can see.
Turns out my mate had already ordered me an IE inlet, at 599 plus his normal discount. I almost bought an SEM off Vertex. Going to be running on the 2.0 AGU we're building. Bit lame that I'll only be using a GT2871 but should go alright.
What are you doing for a fuel pump? I just got an IE surge tank + 044.
I just use a inline pump and standard in tank pump but do plan to fit a 3rd pump when the 1000+cc go
Mine doesn't have a surge tank and seams to cope well so far
Sounds like you had a right result on the inlet mate.....what a bonus
That'll go nicely on the gt2871 and be very responsive for street
Fuel pump i currently have an 044 inline in the oem fuel filter location but eventually will get an IE surge tank and will install this with the IE fuel rail with AN fittings and lines (probably won't be in by the time i get the new motor in)
Was going to ask if you had a surge tank as did wonder if the standard lines, fuel rail etc could have been possibly contributing to you maxxing your injectors, as people seem to be getting mid to high 400's out of the 630cc injectors?
yes indeed they can mate so dont worry!
there is a place up my way, (newcastle) called AlloyFIX Alloy Wheel Repair newcastle rim refurb Specialist in Tyne & Wear that can repair that no problem, but obviously thats a bit far for you! but i am sure similar places exist down your way that can perform similar mirracles!
they basically use a hydraulic ram of 5 ton psi, heat the rim and gently massage the rim back into shape!
it was a joy to watch them fix a slight buckle to my rim! about Â£50 stace!
check there vids out on the website of theres! its magic!
I did post on here asking what the limitations of the fuel lines and rail
Also asked on vortex and there are a few people running very hight hp with the standard stuff
Dyno lottery i would think.
Thats why i plan to get mine on a hub dyno after the next set of modifications.