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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by StaceyS3, Feb 7, 2012.
stacey... give me a bell when you get a mo
Funny you say that, i too got gc on bilstein pss9 and the car isn't low enough.
They're a great kit but i'm starting to get annoyed by the clunks i get on small bumps and spring noise at full steering lock.
Its a Rose jointed solid top mount... Solid, precise but no Rubber to absorb anything
They will be very harsh on roads.. let alone british roads with all their potholes
nice kit but its going to be harsh on bumpy roads.
Well i fitted the spacers last night and raised the front and rear 12mm, don't ask me why or how i ended up with that figure but somehow did
Heres an old pic on my A8 rims to compare as the car is back on these for this week whilst i eventually get the OZ's refurbed
And one i took tonight
The back seems to have gone up more than the front so may drop that a couple of mm
Hopefully all being well i might get round to sticking my new/second hand front bumper on as ive got a black one in my loft waiting to go on as well as a rear bumper but thats not been painted, i will also aim to get my intercooler spray done at the same time
Yeah mine wouldn't be an issue if the top seats were as big as the originals and get a little bit of a clunk when going over pot holes and bumps but that has been there for ages....well before either of the top mount setups ive used and have changed most things and still not found it
They're quite harsh but doesn't bother me am so used to them and the seats are very squishey and got a reasonable size rear lol
I expect it would piss me off a dam site more if i had buckets with little cushion in them
Have to say though changing to the 18's with ad08's today is so much smoother and really hadn't noticed the difference that much when put the 19's on originally
Truly inspired by your work Stacey, excellent thread.
could I request you as a frd, Ive got so many brainers for ya kid!
In need of some S3 loving my frd
Cheer mate appreciate the comments and yeah more than welcome to message me questions etc but best bet is to start a thread as there's loads of knowledgeable people on here that know plenty more than me
Little update my car has been gradually running less and less boost over the last 6+ months since it was mapped and couldn't work it out as there was no boost leaks or obvious problems??
It when mapped iirc run at 1.5-1.55 bar (top of the map sensor range) which over time has got to a peak of 1.35 and holding anywhere between 1.1-1.3
So after a discussion with bill i wound the wastegate spring down a bit as he suspects it has got softer over time due to heat, on the drive home from work only gave it a couple of pokes as it's only a couple of miles and saw 1.45-1.5 both times.... Result
I didn't suspect this previously as when I had my n75-wastegate pipe break it happily ran 2 bar but as explained by bill (or how i perceived what he said) the n75 map will only deviate so much from the specified value to make the demand and mine had fallen out of this range? (please correct me if I'm wrong) î
The only other thing I did for good measure was a tb reset but this hadn't previously brought boost back up so got to put it down to the waste gate spring
Will hopefully give the car a bit of a spanking tonight to see how it's going as it certinally felt like it had more go yesterday on my brief trip, also should hopefully be fitting the sprayer kit tonight
Cheers for the help as always bill
no probs mate. glad it kinda made sense.
Well what a brilliant weekend...was great to meet and put some faces to some of the people off of this forum evetually and camped with a great crowd and will be certinally be trying to make as many events as possible in future
Well im affraid i only got 4 pics of the weekend which i will put in the pics thread shortly, i did a couple of runs as have never done 1/4 mile and supprisingly enough my first run had my best launch which i couldnt better, i bogged down on my 4th and 5th but did manage to beat my quarter mile time on my 3rd which was a result but not quite into the 12's as after the first i had set this as my goal to achieve
A little vid of a run
Audi s3's gti inters - YouTube
I had tried to get my intercooler water spray completed before the weekend but failed misserably, i managed to get all the hardware in but none of the wiring
Heres some pics anyway
Heres a little test vid (one nozzle seems bock and will have to sort next time i have the bumper off)
Audi s3 intercooler spray - YouTube
Yesterday as was nice and sunny in the afternoon i though i would get out and wire it all up but much to my disgust the timer relay i got from china didn't seem to work at all as a timer and only the normally closed contacts did anything
I then for now have chucked in a normal relay which i will be changing asap as is not rated as high as id like it to be
I don't know what the ambients were yesterday when i used it but the forcast was suggesting 18 degrees and my temps where between 10-30 degrees as a peak and low but generally they ran between 12-24 which i was pretty happy about but will give it a proper test when i give it a better drive and sit in traffic and heatsoak
A couple of pics of the wiring and button
Poxy timer relay
Wiring by the pump including solenoid feed
I'm jealous of your boost pipes! Who made them? How do you find the bumper fit with the AH? Mines well tight now, hard to "pull" on over the sides.
I saw a launch pic of yours. Looked awesome! You should have no worries getting into the 12s. A mate here ran 12.7 on a GT2871R S3.
Cheers mate i just bought all normal alloy pieces off of ebay and cut them all to size and took them to where my bro works to get them all tigged
Heres a pic before i painted them
And yeah feel i could certinally get some more out of it on the launches but cant really fault any of the runs after i gt going apart from the usual crunchy 2nd-3rd but that shouldn't have lost me any time as it seems like it still goes in just as quick just sounds nasty lol
Very cool! Way better than my setup! So you don't take the stock route on the passenger side by the looks of it?
I forgot to ask before about the cayenne's. How do you find the pedal? I'm still waiting to fit mine
would locating them vertically not make for a more even spread across the core, as opposed just the middle strip?
just a thought
good work tho
No come up between the battery and the tb pretty simular to tuffty's
I like the pedal feel of the 6 pots its quite progressive but very easy to put passangers on the windscreen with little effort if desired
I did before hand have the dreaded 911 rears and on these the pedal feel was absolutely rock solid withhardly any travel (although admittedly they had less piston area than standard) and i'll take the pedal feel of the cayennes every day
Cheers bill did think about it and many combinations of positioning the nozzles, but have turned all of the nozzles vertically for now, and does actually get roughly a 6 inch area (vertically) including most of the way to the top which i thought was best place as doesn't get a great deal of direct airflow and the water in held on for a few seconds runs down the cooler
When i was testing it and had it on for less 10 secs on and off over a little period of time you could see about 60-70% of the cooler was wet
Heres a couple of pics of the nozzle
Disaster I think I have killed my gearbox
It's been a bit crunchy from 2nd-3rd when trying to change quickly for a while and last night I went to change from 4th to 5th to find I had gone into 3rd? Thought nothing of it and tried again to find out the only gears I could select where 3rd and 4th
Well once I got home I gave it a bit of a wiggle, fiddle and brute force and now the selector will go into all gears as normal but doesn't actually go into the correct gears as reverse it is like the box is in a forward and reverse gear at the same time and it remains in gear in neutral?
I got the other half to select gears whilst I watched the selector and it seemed to be moving as it should do?
Any ideas? Presume I'll be hunting for a new box?
Bad news Stacey, sounds like a broken selector rod?
But if it was crunching anyway at least you can get that sorted too... :icon_thumright:
ah... selector fork issues maybe? fairly common sadly
Rebuilt box or replacement of some kind only trouble is they all potentially suffer the same issues with a little mileage on... there was a place that did upgrades of some parts iirc... decent diff bolts to replace the rivets etc... not sure if there is an upgrade to the selector forks though... need to look into that as I fancy rebuilding my gearbox pre-emptively...
Bad news though mate... always the way
Bad luck Stace, sounds like the strip finished it off.
Any ideas of how much a refurb usually is?
Got to admit was abusing it at the time taking someone out who has just recently got an s3 and wanted to see how it went so wasn't taking it lightly lol
And yeah Westy strip certinally wouldn't have helped as was banging it into 3rd a bit :whistle:
If not anyone know anywhere can get the parts from for the selector fork or how complex the repair is?
VW MANUALGEARBOX VOLKSWAGEN MANUAL GEARBOXES VW GEARBOX AUDI GEARBOXES SEAT GEARBOXES SKODA GEARBOXES 02K DUU DUS DLP ERT
Might be worth a punt...
I think the time has come for you to get a sequential box
SQS Racing | Gear Kits
Pretty sure the selector forks are rivetted (so I've been told) and the common fix is to replace with small bolts.
I had an issue with a Quaife box once, fifth gear fell off. It would engage but you'd be able to just rev it and nothing happen. I sold the box, cost me a bomb Sounded awesome though (prior to failing). Nice whine to it...
thats what quaifes do....
happened to me also.. 6th fell off.. ffs.
SQS for the win
Do it. haha
Bad news stacey, are you able to select all gears?
If you do, maybe something let go under the shift stick?
I had a broken selector fork 4 years ago, i repaired with some unbrako bolts and some welding and while a was at it i stuck a peloquin TBD in it.
thats one fast 320!
Cheers for the links and comments guys have made a couple of phone calls and think I will buy a second hand box and try and repair mine in the mean while
I would love a sqs box but it's very pricey
Straight cut is also not really an option although that BMW sounds wicked I think it would drive me insane lol
Would love to get a refurbed one with the strengthened bolts etc but it was £645 plus postage and vat iirc so will probably see if i can refurb and strengthen mine and swap them back when I do the turbo etc
Ps sorry late reply guys had a hectic day
Yeah, I was just kidding haha. So many reasons not to do it. main one being cost, and then the ongoing rebuild cost...
I forgot to add I did do some reasonable millage tuesday before it all went Pete tong to pick this up which is neatly tucked into one of my cupboards at work
Got it off of user transitman on here for a good price
What are peoples opinions of the ie manual timing belt tensioner as am all being well ordering some bit s from ie tommorrow and it works out same price for the manual tensioner kit as it is for an oem kit and replacing the gas damper?
Bill uses one on his Ibiza engine... I have also considered this as the last one I had didn't last as long as I anticipated but then it may not have helped me having the head on and off a few times over the past 20k miles...
If I had the cash I would prob do this and run ARP head bolts...
I've now got arp head bolts and wish I had the first time as went through four sets trying to sort that oil leak from the headgasket
Had seriously considered arp main and crank bolts but with the cost of them compared to standard and chances of having to undo them again in the future I think I will go for oem unless strongly advised otherwise?
Think the ie tensioner will be worth a punt then
Just went to purchase some gearbox oil for the new gearbox when it arrives to be told that it's £16 a litre and need 2.6 litres
Doe anyone know what the consistency of the oil is as will get it elsewhere or have anything from 32 hydraulic oil to 680 gearbox oil at work
I made the mistake of only buying 1 litre and had to abort the oil change, as you may well remember?
You need 75W90 for gearbox mate. I bought this:
MOTUL GEAR 300 75W90 TRANSMISSION FLUID CLUTCH OILTZ250 RS TZ350 RS125 RDLC YPVS | eBay
75W90 semi or fully synthetic..
This is what I used in my rear diff and gear box when I changed mine..
Fuchs TITAN GEAR SYN 75W-90 Semi Synthetic Driveline Oil
...or this which is fully synth...
Fuchs TITAN SINTOPOID SAE 75W-90 synthetic gear oil
Cheers guys knew somebody would know
Went with opie oils in the end and I ended up going with red line mt 90 in the end due to the guy really praised it
Here's a link http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1020-red-line-synthetic-manual-transmission-90-mt90-75w-90-gl4.aspx
Cheers for the help guys ended up spending nearly as much as audi but have saved on a journey and juice and they reckon this is a lot better than oem so am a happy guy