Slealth TOMTOM One mount

[GeoffT]

To make a change from all of the RNS-E fitting guides, here’s my stealth TOMTOM One mount project.

Although obviously the RNS-E is the ultimate in integrated Satnav for the A3, it has one major drawbacks as far as I am concerned – the lack of speed camera warnings. I have always used TOMTOM satnavs and found them very good as they are very customisable.

The problem though was mounting it in my A3 without the usual ugly window or vent clip-on mounts. Ideally I wanted a mount that was completely hidden when not in use.

I had ordered my A3 with the non-smoking pack for the obvious reason the SWMBO & I are both non-smokers. I was a bit disappointed with the appearance of the non-smokers cubby though as it though it should have a cover over the storage area.

As it turns out there was a solution to both of these problems. I bought an ashtray assembly from Ebay and have modified the ashtray recess to house my brodit TOMTOM one (v1) active mount. The actual ashtray part just clips out leaving a cavity just deep enough the house the mount and allow the lid to shut when not in use.

With the TOMTOM on the mount and having roughened up the plastic at the bottom of the ashtray cavity and the mount itself I epoxied the mount into the ashtray with the TOMTOM resting back on the open lid. Once the epoxy had set I removed the tomtom and marked a line along the mount where it protruded above the level of underside of the lid. I dremelled along this line and checked that the lid shut OK.

With a bit of filing to the cut edges to smooth them of the TOMTOM slides in easily and is nicely supported by both the mount and the raised ashtray lid.

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Changing from the non-smokers tray to the modified ashtray was a bit more complicated than I thought, but not too bad.

Pull gearstick surround up. It is held in by 4 clips and lifts of easily.

Remove the 4 screws holding in these clips.

Remove the rear console arm mounting bolts (8mm hex), the allen bolts that hold the arms to the dash (accessed via a hole in the bottom of the top bar). I had great difficulty finding the from console arm bolts. Mine is a double DIN dash and you need to remove the bottom trim piece below the climate control to gain access to the front bolts. These are again 8mm hex but are quite tricky to get at. I used a ¼” socket and extension as access is to tight to get a ½” socket in. With all 3 fixings removed remove each console arm.

The existing non-smokers tray now just pulls out.

I decided to run the power cable back to the fuse box on the drivers side rather than cut into any existing wiring. To make it easier to run the cable I removed the Climate Control. You need to gently prise of the switch cover that surrounds the coin tray, hazard warning switch etc. With this off just pull the top of the climate control forwards and down and it will unclip.

With that out of the way I could run a piece of flexible plastic from the back of the ashtray area, behind the steering wheel area and through to the fuse panel in the door shut area. This prove to be surprisingly easy. Pulling the cable though on the plastic, the new ashtray was slotted into place. NB the ashtray I bought had 4 tabs at the back but the double DIN only uses the outer 2 so I had to remove the others. With the ashtray in place replacement is the reverse procedure to removal (copyright Haynes manuals!)

I think it is the ideal solution for my needs. The view and access to the screen isn’t perfect as the gearstick obscures the view it you are in 1st,3rd or 5th, but it is good enough and I would gladly trade that for being able to totally hide the mount when not in use. If I were to do it again I would possibly mount the unit 10mm higher to give a bit better access. I mounted it as low as possible to make access to the climate controls easier and to make sure the mount still had enough meat on it to support the tomtom. In hindsight I still think it would be strong enough mounted a bit higher. Even at this lower location the TOMTOM picks up the satellite signal with no problem.
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[benw123]

Nice write up, and neat integration, but I have to say the position of the screen is unusable at best, dangerous at worst! And not being able to see it when using half the speeds of the gearbox is also self-defeating. I realise the voice commands will obviously help, but even looking across to the RNS-E screen can sometimes be risky - I think you'll have to be extremely careful when using your TomTom.

 

[GeoffT]

The think is I hardly ever look at the screen anyway. Most of the time I just have it on to warn me of speed cameras, which it does by voice. If I do need to use it for navigation I will mostly listen to the voice commands. I have just been for a drive to test it, and it's surprising easy to see the screen if I need to anyway.

I realise it's not a perfect solution, but I hate those screen mounts!

 

[mdre83]

Hi Geoff,

Good write up mate, been trying to think of a neat way of mounting a TomTom One. Only problem having it there for me is, I never use the voice commands, generally look at the screen. As you say though, spot on for yourself and probably quite a few people out there.

Just a quick one, how/where did you wire the TomTom cable to/in the fuse box?
You don't have any pic by any chance do you?

Cheers

 

[GeoffT]

Just a quick one, how/where did you wire the TomTom cable to/in the fuse box?
You don't have any pic by any chance do you?

Cheers

I can't remember the fuse number of the top of my head. I'll take a look and a pic tonight. There were only about 3 fuse positions that didn't have fuses fitted but had the "feed" connector in place. I chose one that was ignition controlled (using a meter to check) and found a blade connector that fitted into the connector. I then fitted an in-line fuse to that for the Tomtom supply. I connected the earth to a nearby fixing screw. I have ordered a "piggy-back" fuseholder to make a slightly more professional job.

 

[GeoffT]

Just checked. I used fuse position No 5.

 

[mdre83]

Excellent, cheers mate, you dont have any pics too of exactly how you done the setup by any chance do you?


Cheers :icon_thumright:

 

[GeoffT]

Excellent, cheers mate, you dont have any pics too of exactly how you done the setup by any chance do you?


Cheers :icon_thumright:

I don't have pics of me actually fitting it , but I should be able to answer any questions you have. What part do you need more info on, the physical fitting or the wiring?

 

[mdre83]

The wiring mainly, how was ignition blade connector, earth and in-line fuse all wired up?

Cheers

 

[GeoffT]

OK, I've just got the "piggyback" fuseholder so here are some pics of how it is connected to the fuse panel. As I said I used fuse number 5, but you need to check your car as I assume the fuses used vary from spec to spec. The piggyback fuse holder plugs into the fuse postion and has slots for 2 fuses itself. The one nearest the blades is for the existing fuse position (not required in my case as fuse 5 was empty) and the other one is for the flying lead. I used a 5A fuse for the Tomtom.

 

[mdre83]

Thats excellent mate, cheers for that :icon_thumright:

 

[Twizzler]

Geoff, Thanks for the patient way you've answered questions on this subject. One question, before I wreck my 4 day old 170. Does the side of the dash covering the fuses just prise gently off or are there hidden fastenings?

 

[GeoffT]

Geoff, Thanks for the patient way you've answered questions on this subject. One question, before I wreck my 4 day old 170. Does the side of the dash covering the fuses just prise gently off or are there hidden fastenings?

Thanks for the thanks! I have found this site very useful for various bits of information when I was ordering my A3, so it is good to be able to conribute a little back.

It is held on by 4 or 5 spring clips. Just ease it off from the from edge and it unclips quite easily.

 

[MarcQuinlivan]

Geoff, Thanks for the patient way you've answered questions on this subject. One question, before I wreck my 4 day old 170. Does the side of the dash covering the fuses just prise gently off or are there hidden fastenings?

it says somewhere in the manual if i remember correctly that you should insert your key into the hole towards the bottom of the panel and turn it to remove the panel. it's always worked for me anyway.