she's alive!

[ScottyP45]

So....she's fixed!!!

New radiator £30 from coolrads - bumper needs to come off so the top hose spigot will clear the plastic front shell (bonnet slam panel) - but was easy as pie to take off.

Scrappy's provided a bonnet cable, new grille, fusebox lid and a bleed bulb which turned out to be necessary as due to the head seal leak on the IP, it had bled air back into the filter over the week and refused to start. A few minutes later after pulling vacuum on the filter stub that goes to the hose with the blue stripe, and presto, she burst into life.

Now ive foamed the turbo twice with mr muscle oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide) and unscrewed the actuator rod a bit (to lower the peak boost and the response at low rpm) so its now hitting 1 bar max, 0.8 on average and pulling like a train with absolutely no limp mode or codes or anything, temp steady as a rock and no overheating without the viscous fan so freed up a couple of hp there too I reckon, maybe as much as 5 bhp! The foam has eaten the carbon and freed the VNT nicely so it got a bit of a workout on the dual carriageway to blow all the **** out once it was back together.

Lovely, my workhorse returns.....that ****** legacy was eating me alive at 22 - 25 mpg (best) compared to 45-50 mpg from me beloved tdi

Now to find some biodiesel to seal the leaky pump until I get round to tackling the dreaded pump-head seal..

W00T W00T

 

[aragorn]

Good job

Glad the engine was fine and it was just a dodgy rad.

Started breaking that B6 yet?

 

[ScottyP45]

Cheers!

well....I do have to go see the garage who have it, so I can pull it to bits but somewhere to put it is the problem...

 

[tdia4]

Glad to hear it's finally sorted and your enjoying it.

I feel your pain with the Legacy aswell, I had a 2.0l gt twin turbo, i worked my mpg out as.....driving steady 25mpg, steady with abit of booting here and there...18mpg and hamering it 12mpg, lovely car and it went like hell untill 112mph lol, still had the limiter on it. I only got rid of it because of the fuel economy.

 

[ScottyP45]

sounds spot on with what im getting there jack, mine is delimited and will hit 160 in a blink of an eye - its acceleration is brutal in twin mode eh.

here's ma beastie:

 

[Oranoco]

Mate of mine has one of those GTB Went like a scalded cat. Pray it don't go wrong though mate as there seems to be very few people out there with the know how to work on the twin turbo model

 

[sdk778]

Crank seal's can pop causing oil leaks on the TT GT models, pig to do, had to do an estate for a friend last Christmas, Eeesh, not good.

 

[Jonion]

Well I'm really happy to see you've got to sorted chap.
Nice one.

I also fitted the head unit back into mine today and it hasn't decided to detonate itself yet so another victory. lol

BTW want to swap your Legarsey for my Howdi ?

 

[ScottyP45]

heh well its actually goin up for sale very soon once its got another years test on it.....now I would swap it for a tdi quattro saloon - what is yours again Jon? If its the TDi Q then you may have a deal.....

And yeah, a lot of folk are squeemish about working on a TT but its just an STi engine with an extra turbo, and a vacuum solenoid box of doom (VSBOD), however mine has had all vac pipes renewed, new clutch, timing belt, water pump, new engine cradle, new steering rack and boots, full decat (cat retained for mot time), MAF, crank sensor, CTS and a recon VSBOD. It has twin IHI VF22 / 24 ball-bearing turbos and was RR'd at 301bhp - 0.8 bar on primary, 1.2 bar on twins, delimited and flawless, no bushes or arms required. I've had it a while and its ma 3rd one, its excellent to drive and sounds like megatron having an orgasm when you open it up :mmmmmmm:

Swap it for a 2.5 TDi quattro anyone???

 

[Oranoco]

Do you DIY mate as I'm doing some head scratching on my mates and you may just be able to help?

 

[ScottyP45]

I do indeed mate, happy to help if i can, I know a fair bit about the GT and GTB's an scoobs in general, fire away.

And heres a sound clip of what mine sounds like (just cos I love that rip - listen for the turbos spinning down...my neighbours love it at 5am when I leave for work......I think they do anyway, they wave encouragement from their bedroom windows.....):

 

[Jonion]

heh well its actually goin up for sale very soon once its got another years test on it.....now I would swap it for a tdi quattro saloon - what is yours again Jon? If its the TDi Q then you may have a deal.....

Nope, mine's no use to you chap, it's a 2.8 V6 Q Sport Avant.

 

[ScottyP45]

doh!

 

[tdia4]

I had to go through cleaning all the solenoids on mine, made a big difference though once they were all free of crud, nevr had any real problems with it though thankfully.

This was mine:

 

[Oranoco]

Probel;m I've got is it used to start from cold or imediately after a run when hot but as soon as it cooled a small bit it would just tur and turn and turn and that was it. As soon as it was stone cold again it would fire into life. Now however it just doesn't want to start full stop. The engine let go and was rebuilt by a guy on a Subaru forum and it's had the issue since then, it also refuses to make any power and seems to ventboost to atmosphere when the second turbno should start to come in. On Torque of the Devils dyno we were seeing 12psi at the inlet and just 150bhp. I'm worried the builder has made a ******** of the job

 

[ScottyP45]

12 psi is correct on primary turbo only, I suggest replacing all the vac lines in the doombox (keeping / transferring the brass restrictor pills from the tubes that have them - very very important) and find the boost leak (you will have one) and I bet it is between the 2nd turbo outlet and the IC air inlet control valve on the 2nd turbo, as it only leaks on twin mode.

The primary spools, boosts etc etc then at 4k rpm the exhaust diverter valve opens a bit to prespool the secondary turbo, then when a DPS (differential pressure sensor) says both turbos are at the same pressure, the exhaust valve opens fully and the air inlet valve opens to join the secondary boost into the IC with the primary, so the pipe between turbo 2 and the air control valve must be the prob, its allowing all the boost out in twin mode but boost ok in primary mode.

 

[tdia4]

Just wanted to add abit if thats ok, check all the pipe numbers match up in the doom box, if it was rebuilt chances are some of them could have been put back wrong.

 

[ScottyP45]

aye good point Jack, I have pics of the correct plumbing inside the solenoid box if needed.

heres a wee thing i was gonna try wi mine....cut line 10 as it goes thru the passenger inner wing to the boost control valve and block the engine end of vac 10 - bringing the primary boost up to 16 psi, join the 2nd turbo dps line into the primary dps line so it always sees equal pressure and disconnect & block the vac to the 2ndary exhaust valve and the air inlet valve, effectively putting 1st turbo on full boost same as it would have in twin mode, but really its a single turbo then, no vod and no change over.....hopefully no code 66 boost error and trouble free motoring ha ha

both turbos are the same size so should present no problems or break anything, and simplify operation.

 

[tdia4]

I've got a pipeing diagram somewhere of how to get the 2 turbos to work together, no idea if it works like but i'll post it up.

 

[tdia4]

Cant find my picture but heres the thread.

Parallel turbo dissapointment - UK Legacy Forums

 

[ScottyP45]

yeah I think parallel is probly no good from the lag, but my suggestion turns it into a single turbo like the wrx without all the spannering...stops the second working at all but fools the ecu into thinking it is working...

1. Up the boost on the primary turbo by cutting vac line 10 at the boost solenoid and block the engine end of that tube, leaving the other end vented to atmosphere - this brings peak boost on primary to 16 psi instead of 8 psi and 16 is the normal max on both turbos so not above the engine limit in any way.

2. Join both DPS sensor pipes using a T to the same point it reads the primary boost, i.e. joining its arms together so it reads equal boost at both sensor ports

3. Plug the vac line to the 2nd turbo exhaust flap valve so it wont open any more

4. Plug the vac line to the IC air control valve on the second turbo, so it cant open any more (use a small ball bearing up the tubes)

I think that would work, as the engine approaches 4k, the ecu signals the exhaust flap to open (not working now) and then checks the DPS to see if both are at the same pressure before opening the air valve to let the second turbo boost enter the IC - DPS says both good, so the ecu proceeds to open the air valve which doesnt react, but it thinks the job is done, while you enjoy full primary boost pressure uninterrupted by vod....

Hell you could even plumb in 4 tdi N75 valves to allow you to switch it back by pushing a button....