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Sai removal guide

jonny87 Jan 31, 2010

  1. Pmol66

    Pmol66 Member

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    Its worth a try mate. I got lucky. Mine came out with only a few swear words. I was on my own too, on my drive with axle stands.
     
  2. JudderMan

    JudderMan Well-Known Member

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    Just done mine today, was a bit of a pig to get enough purchase on the Allen key bolts but did it as I need a new coolant water flange (plastic thing on the side of the head), so it made sense to do it all at the same time.

    Pretty easy really, just I left the SAI pump in place as I don't fancy soldering anything not with my ham fists anyway. Still have an EML so I imagine I'll have to get it wiped by a mate, as I only have VCDS Lite.

    It's a lot smoother now (not sure why) when idling, the cold start revs drop sooner (used to be 1 minute at least, now it's about 30 seconds), and it just 'feels' better. It's probably just all in my mind but needed to say it.

    edit: forgot to say, if you leave the pump in place, remember to remove the electrical connector or your car will sound like a jet engine LOL.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  3. Pmol66

    Pmol66 Member

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    That jet engine noise is nasty lol. The reason why i took mine out is that every time i fired it up, that would happen.
     
  4. JUS3IN

    JUS3IN 14.0 @ 98mph 2s 60ft

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    just ordered my stuff for this, also getting the jet sound!-)
     
  5. Nathan Barnes

    Nathan Barnes Active Member

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    Great guide! I agree that the removal of the pump is a complete PITA, so seeing I was never going to refit the pump or bracket, I cheated and broke out the angle grinder........

    Two cuts at the bottom of the bracket and the pump just falls off! No messing about!

    The short-ended 5mm allen key in the photo is essential if you don't want to drain your coolant system - it will fit between the coolant pipe when taking off the breather tube. Either buy one or cut your own down.

    With these 2 cheats, it took about 40 minutes.

    Thanks for the inspiration jonny87!
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
    Pmol66 likes this.
  6. Nathan Barnes

    Nathan Barnes Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    I should have posted this pic - My post might have made sense!
     
    jojo likes this.
  7. jojo

    jojo Looking for Boost! Staff Member Moderator Team Daytona Audi S3 quattro Audi A6 Audi Avant Owner Group

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    I left my pump attached, was going to cut it out, but I crashed the car instead! lol
     
    Nathan Barnes likes this.
  8. The Homacide

    The Homacide Member

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    I know this an old thread but i have a question if anybody can answer it, I'm getting my mechanic to do the N249 Bypass the SAI removal and the PCV system removal and catch can mod all in one hit. I've been reading the same threads over and over, to be honest i've worn the hell out of them.
    Anyway let me get to the question, when the SAI is removed, and the resistors don't get soldered in, over time the engine light comes on, is this correct?
    I'm getting a remap done by R-Tech on Friday would they be able to delete the code so the engine light doesn't come on.
     
  9. SamHendry

    SamHendry Active Member

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    Homacide I did the sai delete last w.e. Something worth tackling yourself. Regarding the engine light Question, I didn't use resistors (left sai pump plug hanging in bay) and no engine light so far. If a eml appears, it's no hardship soldering resistor in.
     
  10. The Homacide

    The Homacide Member

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    Thanks for the reply, but as mentioned rather than soldering anything, if engine light does come on can it be deleted through the custom remap, I've got a downpipe and decat and I know that can be.
     

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