Dec 9, 2012
What should I be aware of at that kind of mileage? Any issues with the 4.2 lump?
Timing chain rattles, excessive oil usage they do use lots and prone for it
When does the chain need replacing, and what's the problem if it does rattle?
Chain tensioners have heard its a engine out job and can cost £3000/4000 hopefully someone who owns and done the research on them will answer this thred better as I've never owned one.....
Timing chain change comes in at 180k from memory, and its an engine out job as mentioned.
i know of a guy with one that spent the 3+grand to repair and it still rattles a bit.(in my opinion) maybe its what they do. nice motor though.
The S4 never needs the chains replaced unless due to failure. I've not heard of one failing due to the chains, it's always been due to the chain guides or tensioners and quite often it's due to the car being on a long life service plan which is no good for these engines. I change my oil every 5-6k with a good quality oil. The engines are very reliable and failure is very rare. The start up rattle is normal for these cars as the tensioners work on oil pressure and this only comes once the engine starts up. Audi have stated that the rattle should last 1-2 seconds, if the rattle continues then walk away as its an engine out job. They also consume oil so always keep an amount in the car as backup and check the level regualarly. Oil change on these cars is so simple. There's a clip on YouTube of how to that I'd recommend you watch. I'd certainly recommend one if theses cars. I've had mine 18 months and can't fault it. I went for the B6 rather than the B5 over reliability and that's me done 20k miles since I've bought it, including a track day too. Be prepared to fill up regualarly as thy drink fuel for fun. I had mine converted to lpg in August and that's helps as I do about 400 miles a week. Hope all this helps.
It does thanks
Mine failed because the chain stretched. But that was because the tensioner snapped. Cost a little over £5000 as the exhaust valves all touched one side and the inlet manifold was also making a noise so they changed that too (that on its own was £1000) luckily I had a warranty. Mine still rattled after the work was done thought. It would stop after oil changes until I had done about 3000 miles so I use to change my oil at the 3-4000 mark. Try and look around the engine for oil leaks as they tend to leak around the rockers. Watch for smoke on overrun as this can be a sign of scorn cylinder walls. Check all the windows go up and down as they should as the regulators are prone to failure. Also watch out for a slight judder when pulling away as that will be the dual mass flywheel on its way out, at that sort of mileage if its still on its original clutch it might be time for a new one anyway. Make sure its had the coilpack recall and has been maintained well i.e. not on longlife and genuine parts used and you should be alright
I'll bow to your greater knowledge, but I've heard before that it does require replacement. Although I can't remember where from, or how reliable it was likely to be.
I very much doubt its a service item given the cost involved - i read its $3k us from an American site in parts alone..
It's meant to be a 30 hour job, engine out as chains are at the back. I wouldn't worry too much about chain failure. Just make sure the cars got a good service history and hopefully not on long life service. Saying that, whatever one you go for just make an oil change the first thing you do.
MY chain rattle comes back when my oil is about 1/2 way down the dipstick between min and max, top it up again to max and it disappears. However these cars burn a fair amount of oil, so you end up doing it fortnightly or more depending how you drive it.
Using thicker oil is best too, when I was on Castrol Edge 5w30 it rattled a lot more than the 5w40 TPS (Quantum Platinum or something I think) oil I am using now, this also reduced the amount of oil it burns.
Ask for the car to be cold when you view it, start it up with the door / window open so you can listen for hte rattle, IMO if its 3 seconds or under then its fine and you can cure it with thicker oil and keeping it at max, if its much more than that the tensioner or guides are faulty, or the oil in the car is very thin, very old, or very low.
The rattle is a bit scary but its very rare that the engines fail because of this.
I would recommend listening for clunks and clicks whilst steering at low speeds, a set of front arms isn't cheap and it can involve a lot of labor changing them ,if it clicks / knocks you might be able to knock that expense off the cars sale price.
I ended up changing all the arms on mine. But it has done a few more miles than this one.
leaking aux rads is very common and the starter is quite prone to playing up. i had faulty tensioner and snapped guides and ended up changing the whole lot as well as clutch/flywheel, various sensors and rebuilding the starter! still love it though!
On top of everything already said, check the air con is working correctly as the compressor is costly to replace.
Just a few things then lol...
were did you get it converted sir.
had one for 9 years
be all and end all is make sure the chain rattle only lasts a second or so or even better fit a pressureised system
like an accusump this will guarentee no problems with tensioners and will dramatically stop the wear on the plastic guides
I have one for about 2-3 years, i love it ! It's a bit thirsty for a daily driver but then how many 380 Bhp engines with permanent 4 wheel drive and 20" tyres do better than 27 mpg ? In town it can go as low as 16 mpg- not too bothered as the smiles per buck are worth-it ! As above, fit a rs4 rear antiroll bar and new suspension arms and you won't fault it. Brakes are on their limit though and will need replacing if you intend to map yours. Fit a aftermarket exhaust so the engine breathes better- i have built mine a full 316 stainless steel dual exhaust but i have retained the back boxes to keep the noise in check, it's still loud on a full throttle !
Chain rattle is problematic on these, stick to quality 5w40 fully syn oil and change it yearly/6000 miles which ever comes first. Also coil packs and plugs needs doing- had one go and it felt like the clutch and Dmf was on the way out...
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