s3gazz's slow engine build

s3gazz

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well iv finaly got around to stripping the engine never done owt like this before but im giving it ago anyway as i like things like this and got alot of time on my hands now.

still waiting on some parts but that dont stop me stripping the engine down i started with this

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then the stripping all the hoses gone and the easy stuff out of the way.

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fuel rail i blocked the holes up and put some coloured tape around to remember wich one goes where.

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all the conectors iv took photos of so i no where to put them back there is that many god.

this the where im doing the car too.

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I then got the rocker cover off to see what was inside and wala.

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took some photos of the timming belt one before i cut it.

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inlet mani very easy todo and took some photos of inside the smallports.

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then i spotted a fly wich god nose how it got onto one of the valve lol but the fly was nice and warm i supose.

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this was the big cooland leak i had bleeder.

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next is the head off i was very stuck with the timming so few phone calles and i was certain the timming can be done after iv put my new head on and the rods were out the way.

new head is an AGU largeport done by andrew on there thanks mate.

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more to come not much writing either but no go at that.
 
Very good, nice to see you finally cracking on with it!

What you had done to the head? You still going down the hybrid route?
 
thanks guy iv done alot more ill post up soon the rest and cheers dan and tuffty.

dan im staying the hybrid route ye pal turbo off but ill get to that not happy ha prob my own fault tho
 
dan the head has been ported and polished, skimmed, new valves and stem seals and im taking the vvt off the amk head and the cam sensor and putting onto the AGU head tomorow
 
Very nice mate, be interesting what that head does to the hybrid. You used standard or uprated valves?
 
well ordering these next week from INA

DM Forged - 144|25|19-T or 144|25|20-S (rifle Drilled) Connecting rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts
elring cylinder head master kit (includes 82mm max bore head gasket)
Gates Performance timing belt
INA manual tensioner kit
OEM replacement head bolts
KS connecting rod bearings
Victor Reinz oil pan silicone paste
(2) MANN W719/30 Oil Filters
(13) Exhaust manifold nuts

then all thats left is the v3 xs mani and downpipe with sports cat.

so i put the car on axsle stands and went about taking the oil and coolant lines off with the car in the air it was a pease of pi..

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then set about the head with some new tools iv bought blue point socket set and another set for the head that i got from machine mart there and then.

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now it was time to attack the head its was easy to say iv never done owt like this before and if i can do it anyone can hehe.

pics of the head and turbo off


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once removed left me with alot of room and is much easier thank god.


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and work comenced
 
i got scared when i seen these i no what has coursed this at one point in it life the timming belt has snapped and the valves have hit the pistons.

im now scared that i carnt use the pistons and is more money to fork out can anyone shed some light please if they would be ok or not .

by the way my car performed i think they should be out it was running 222g/s the most iv ever had if they were damaged bad what would this course thanks lads.

pic of the pistons below

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comment would be greatfull thanks
 
Marks on the pistons will be fine once you have used a bit of wet and dry to remove the sharp edges mates...

<tuffty/>
 
Marks on the pistons will be fine once you have used a bit of wet and dry to remove the sharp edges mates...

<tuffty/>

Some good news waw.

When the pistons are out I'll be on with the honing Where can I get the write one from anybody
 
As said i'll pop round to have a look

I'll have my glaze buster/hone then as i'm over your way this weekend ( Saturday at about 10.30 ish )

Make sure the pistons are out by then, it would help if you can remove the oil jets too
 
As said i'll pop round to have a look

I'll have my glaze buster/hone then as i'm over your way this weekend ( Saturday at about 10.30 ish )

Make sure the pistons are out by then, it would help if you can remove the oil jets too[/QUOTE

Cheers Andrew ill have a look at taking the oil sqirters out and I'lltry have the pistons out for u tomoz mate just need to get oil pump out the way then it's 8 nuts and up through the top.
 
can I be slightly controversial here and suggest that as your pistons have had a whack anyway, you sack off the ****ty low comp pistons and buy Danis AGU pistons he's been trying to sell for ages?

Everyone knows that all the best hybrid's are large port AND high comp.

Low comp seems favourable when big turbo's are used, and you can use more boost to get the power up instead of timing, but on a little hybrid that's on it's limits making 22psi + it seems that ALL the higher 9.5:1 engine perform better than an equivalent spec 9:1 engine.

I'm certainly sticking with my AGU pistons despite the option of fitting BAM ones to reduce CR.
 
Hi prawn thanks for this tempted now pal one things is tho i probly will end up going big turbo some time so do I still do it emmm.

With the wack mine have had there is no work to do to them apart from clean em up and a little wet and dry do u no what I'd have to do to the AGU pistons thanks
 
To add to this my turbo has got some air line crack in the hot side both holes mani and Downpipe so rang cr and they are collecting it tomoz to fix this should I ask them to change owt wile its there sorry upgrade ha
 
Haha, thanks the sales boost prawny boy :), no body seems to want them haha.
 
Don't see why Dani! Everyone knows 9:1 s3 stuff is crap. Welly has 450bhp and agu 9.5 pistons, tufty has ~400bhp and Ibiza 9.5 cr pistons, even the immense badger wagon with its mental ~600bhp has 9.25:1 cr, so why anyone would stick with s3 pistons and 9:1 is beyond me!
 
Yeah think I made the mistake of putting 8.5cr pistons in my current block :(

Have always wondered what my turb could do with decent supporting mods and higher comp?
 
I have around 8.5:1 but i do have 2067cc anyway so that does help as i still plan to run about 35 psi with the GTX3076. At 35 psi its working at its most efficient at that pressure anyway.
 
I don't think it's such an issue with a massive turbo, as with the lower CR you just run a bit more boost to reach the same figures, and it's all well within what the turbo can do.

On a little hybrid, which is very compressor heavy, and limited by it's hot side, you don't have that option to add another 2-3psi of boost to compensate for the lower CR, as that just pushes it beyond it's efficiency and generates more heat.

For that reason, it seems sensible to me that small framed turbo's like a ko4 or ko4 hybrid would benefit from a slightly higher CR, yet the massive stuff like GT30's and the like can stick to more old school principles.

It'll always be more lively off boost with higher CR too
 
God knows mate, tbh im thinking of keepin them and slapping them in with some rods for now and buying a seperate block to stroke and bt later on.
 
Well guys this has changed my mind and I'll be going for a higher cr now thanks makes sence too.

I only want to do this once so I'll be doing it all now or never ha .

Ebay the best place for these I take it prawn what cars shall I look for breaking.
On the up side be able to sell rods and pistons together too
 
I'm sure someone on here has a set of agu pistons for sale, they're on ed38 as well , same member
 
hi guys

ye bill the turbo is off and been sent to cr for them to look at the air line crack then it will be going back on and hopfully the spec
of what it is now is the highest to achieve best power gains. ill reseal the bung too.

as for the pistons guys im about to buy them and just want to no weather this is the right thing to do instead of keeping the amk pistons
dont no much about them but JBS told me theres no differance in either and the AMK ones are better stuck.com
 
pics of the turbo here


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what u guys think of the crack then owt major.
 

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