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S3 Suspension and Set-up Guide

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by ChriS3, Jun 18, 2008.

  1. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jun 3, 2009]
    I bet that's in degrees and minutes...
    So 2 minutes under a degree (a gnats ball hair) against 2 minutes over...
    Pretty close.

    Unless it's decimals of a degree...but I'd expect not.
    #41
  2. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jun 3, 2009]
    My pleasure!

    More than likely, sadly. Sorry.
    #42
  3. Dennis Moeller
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    Dennis Moeller Member

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    [Jun 3, 2009]
    You mean that adjusting the rear Toe to where it's at now affected the camber in a negative way? I think he did what he could first regarding rear Camber and then he adjusted the rear Toe...I wanted 0.00 at the rear but he couldn't get that even if he used the VAG tool.

    Regarding the front Camber it's as Ess thinks. The paper I got to show what they done the values are f. ex. Front left Camber -1 (and then the degree sign) . 02'
    So should be pretty close. The dealer will take the car in one more time when I've figured out what to do and align the car to the values I want (or as close as they honestly can) so it won't be an extra cost for me. It's expensive enough already. I know that dealership pretty well and they give me extremely good service, always has. The guy who does the alignment sets up Porsches for track days etc. and he's a friend to a frien so he was as sorry as any that he couldn't get it right. He's ready for the next round :)
    #43
  4. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jun 3, 2009]
    You should find you'll get your rear toe and camber sorted by swapping the adjustable bars over.

    Sadly, there seems to be no firm up or down for there...it varies from car to car.
    #44
  5. S3-GAZ
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    S3-GAZ New Member

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    [Jun 11, 2009]
    Very informative for a newbe like me, thanks guys. I'm a new member of the site.
    I recently bought a 2001 S3, it was traded in at my Local Lincoln Audi and i got a good deal paying cash for it as a trade sale. I'm a mechanic at a small independent VAG specailist and we deal with Lincoln Audi for Genuine parts the car has a full Audi history and although its got 98k on the clock its in good condition apart from lots of stone chips on the front bumper wings and bonnet. I was wondering what the best suspension set up was for it. I have played with cars in the past and fitted several kits at work and i agree budget coilovers are just a waste of space. I think if the genuine audi springs and dampers cost alot more, than say a £200 set of ebay (made in china) coilovers then they are a big no no and will make it handle worse than stock. If buying budget coilovers i would not go cheaper than around the £700 mark, (koni's or eibach's) I personally will be shortly buying Bilstein B8's and H&R springs. Need some 18's though then i can fit them all at the same time. Does anyone run Pirelli P Zero rubber? Whats it drive like?
    Thanks ........
    #45
  6. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jun 11, 2009]
    I had some P Zero Neros on mine for a while...a short while. I hated them. The Avons were better!
    The ones I had were around half worn...but just no feel and not much grip - especially in the wet.
    #46
  7. MintyS3
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    MintyS3 Works 60% the time, Everytime.

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    [Jun 11, 2009]
    I had Rosso's and found them quite good. Ive just purchased F1's though but not had a chance to try them out.
    #47
  8. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jun 11, 2009]
    Like all tyres...it sounds like personal choice rules...
    It really depends on how you drive and how the car is set up.
    #48
  9. emery1990
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    emery1990 Active Member

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    [Jun 16, 2009]
    so if i get the kw springs and shocks set up, does that mean ill have to get rear adustable arms, as ill probally have it lowered by 30mm, also whats a happy medium for wheel alignment, i do like to go fast round the country roads but needs more confidence ? Can you buy lightweight calipers, im going to go for handling now before power as i feel my car is powerful enough for me atm !, im first saving up for the suspension then ill probally get some lighter breaking mods, drilled discs lioghter callipers etc. should if get my wheels alighned straight after i have my suspension fitted ?
    #49
  10. stevehart
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    stevehart Bring on the Ice!!

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    [Jul 5, 2009]
    Hi Guys,

    Thanks Chris and Ess_Three for this thread!!

    I'm about to come into S3 ownership for the second time.
    This time I want to turn it into a driving machine like you all seem to have.

    The car has already been re-mapped but the suspension remains untouched.

    My question comes in essentially two parts: this all sound like quite a lot of work to do and I would imagine likely have to be done in stages.

    Thus, in what order would you recommend getting the modifications done? (perhaps a few jobs at a time)

    And realistically how much am I likely to need to save in order do make the changes?

    One last thing; the car has 17"s which I want to upgrade to 18"s. Would this affect the setup and thus need doing first?

    Thanks for any help and advice

    Regards

    Steve
    #50
  11. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jul 5, 2009]
    In my mind, there are three distinct stages.

    1. Springs, Dampers, Adjustable Tie Bars and an alignment.
    This lot should be done together....but isn't cheap.

    Don't skimp on the adjustable tie bars...it's selling the rest of your suspension short and will cost you money in tyre wear in the long run.

    2. ARBs if you feel you need them...some won't. So don't bother.
    If you do, add them...the only additional cost being you have to pay again for an alignment as you'll screw up the first one fitting the ARBs.

    3. wheels - 18" if it were me.
    Do them anytime you like...the handling settings don't change...you just get a slightly tighter feel on the 18s.


    1. Approx £1500 all fitted and set up.
    2. Approx £500 all fitted and set up.
    3. Approx £1000-£1200 - depending on wheels/tyres


    Nope. Do it anytime.
    #51
  12. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Jul 5, 2009]
    Yes, if you want it to handle properly and not wreck the inside edges of the rear tyres.


    -1.5 degrees negative camber at the front...with parallel toe or ever so slight toe out (say 1 to 2 mins)
    -1.0 degrees negative camber at the rear...with parallel toe.


    Front or back?
    Rears are already alloy...
    Fronts can be swapped to lighter alloy callipers...but generally the bigger discs associtated with the kit weigh more...so status quo (ish).

    With decent suspension you'll not notice the difference though (standard brakes to uprated)


    Save your money and forget drilled discs. They'll crack in time. Get grooved...or even plain with decent pads.


    Yes...pretty much.
    Give it a day or two to let the springs settle in...then get it done.
    #52
  13. stevehart
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    stevehart Bring on the Ice!!

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    [Jul 5, 2009]
    Cheers Ess_Three,

    that was very helpful

    Steve
    #53
  14. Mattjbradbury
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    Mattjbradbury Member

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    [Jun 25, 2010]
    Great write up thanks. I couldn't see anything about costs - what are potential suspension upgrades pricewise?
    #54
  15. Matt82
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    Matt82 Active Member

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    [Jun 25, 2010]
    wow. loving the generalisations and Parada Spec2 recommendation haha
    #55
  16. Schlaag
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    Schlaag Bwah

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    [Apr 29, 2012]
    Hey guys, so what is the latest general consensus on new shocks to go with Eibach Pro springs?

    OEM or std replacements from say ECP or GSF?
    #56
  17. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Apr 29, 2012]
    Bilstien B8 dampers all day long :)

    <tuffty/>
    #57
  18. Schlaag
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    Schlaag Bwah

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    [Apr 29, 2012]
    Hey up Tuffy... Sounds good to me. I dont want a harsh ride but the new s3 is waaay too high.
    Also no point replacing just the springs on to 107,000 mile old shocks!
    #58
  19. Dennis Moeller
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    Dennis Moeller Member

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    [Apr 29, 2012]
    Agree 100%, the B8's are simply perfect for the S3.

    Would consider getting H&R 25mm to go with B8's.. That plus the beefier rear sway bar and the adjustable tie bars + adjustment of the camber really worked magic on my old S3.. God I still miss it :sob:
    #59
  20. S3 Tim
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    S3 Tim BAM!

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    [May 3, 2012]
    Hi, I thought I would ask a question on this thread rather than starting a new one.

    I need to have my alignment done as the tyres are wearing faster on the inside (front wheels)

    I drive quite quickly and corner aggressively, would standard manufacturer settings be ok or should I try one of the settings people have suggested on here?

    I rang ATS which is the nearest laser alignment to me and they said they wouldn't do it to my specifications, only to manufacturer, I haven't asked the other place I've had it done before but they charge £85 and ATS is only £45.

    They also say it doesn't matter if I have the alignment done before or after I change the tyres, but my friend says otherwise, which is the case?

    Any suggestions? Suspension and wheels are standard.

    Thanks!
    #60
  21. sportstractor
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    sportstractor Chugger

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    [May 3, 2012]
    Tyres don't make any difference! If on standard suspension I'd go for oem geometry settings personally, they have been made to give you the best all round setting, you may find that changing for a better cornering setup could make it more twitchy on the motorway. It will feel so good when correctly set, so surprising
    #61
  22. S3 Tim
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    S3 Tim BAM!

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    [May 3, 2012]
    OK thanks! Will stick with the standard settings then. Will probably do the suspension and brakes at some points and then will have more questions!
    #62
  23. BuuBBa
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    BuuBBa Member

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    [Feb 21, 2013]
    How the front camber adjustment should be done, i.e. which part should be moved? Ball joints I guess?
    Just dropped the car to garage and now they called and said that they couldn't get front camber done..

    EDIT: I aksed them to adjust the front camber -1.2deg and now its -1.04 and -0.50. Is that much difference acceptable?
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
    #63
  24. Jenno007
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    Jenno007 Member

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    [Sep 14, 2014 at 3:20 PM]
    I know literally nothing about suspension, so I figure this is the perfect place to ask (given it's the thread in the stickies)

    My car has done 100,000 miles, and the suspension is completely standard. I would like to upgrade it.

    I like the idea of coilovers as they are height adjustable. What other components should I look at upgrading to compliment a set of coilovers? ARB? Suspension bushes (if so what ones)? Anything else?

    Really appreciate any help! Thanks
    #64

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