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S3 Suspension and Set-up Guide

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by ChriS3, Jun 18, 2008.

  1. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    I bet that's in degrees and minutes...
    So 2 minutes under a degree (a gnats ball hair) against 2 minutes over...
    Pretty close.

    Unless it's decimals of a degree...but I'd expect not.
     
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  3. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    My pleasure!

    More than likely, sadly. Sorry.
     
  4. Dennis Moeller

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    You mean that adjusting the rear Toe to where it's at now affected the camber in a negative way? I think he did what he could first regarding rear Camber and then he adjusted the rear Toe...I wanted 0.00 at the rear but he couldn't get that even if he used the VAG tool.

    Regarding the front Camber it's as Ess thinks. The paper I got to show what they done the values are f. ex. Front left Camber -1 (and then the degree sign) . 02'
    So should be pretty close. The dealer will take the car in one more time when I've figured out what to do and align the car to the values I want (or as close as they honestly can) so it won't be an extra cost for me. It's expensive enough already. I know that dealership pretty well and they give me extremely good service, always has. The guy who does the alignment sets up Porsches for track days etc. and he's a friend to a frien so he was as sorry as any that he couldn't get it right. He's ready for the next round :)
     
  5. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    You should find you'll get your rear toe and camber sorted by swapping the adjustable bars over.

    Sadly, there seems to be no firm up or down for there...it varies from car to car.
     
  6. S3-GAZ

    S3-GAZ New Member

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    Very informative for a newbe like me, thanks guys. I'm a new member of the site.
    I recently bought a 2001 S3, it was traded in at my Local Lincoln Audi and i got a good deal paying cash for it as a trade sale. I'm a mechanic at a small independent VAG specailist and we deal with Lincoln Audi for Genuine parts the car has a full Audi history and although its got 98k on the clock its in good condition apart from lots of stone chips on the front bumper wings and bonnet. I was wondering what the best suspension set up was for it. I have played with cars in the past and fitted several kits at work and i agree budget coilovers are just a waste of space. I think if the genuine audi springs and dampers cost alot more, than say a £200 set of ebay (made in china) coilovers then they are a big no no and will make it handle worse than stock. If buying budget coilovers i would not go cheaper than around the £700 mark, (koni's or eibach's) I personally will be shortly buying Bilstein B8's and H&R springs. Need some 18's though then i can fit them all at the same time. Does anyone run Pirelli P Zero rubber? Whats it drive like?
    Thanks ........
     
  7. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    I had some P Zero Neros on mine for a while...a short while. I hated them. The Avons were better!
    The ones I had were around half worn...but just no feel and not much grip - especially in the wet.
     
  8. MintyS3

    MintyS3 Works 60% the time, Everytime.

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    I had Rosso's and found them quite good. Ive just purchased F1's though but not had a chance to try them out.
     
  9. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    Like all tyres...it sounds like personal choice rules...
    It really depends on how you drive and how the car is set up.
     
  10. emery1990

    emery1990 Active Member

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    so if i get the kw springs and shocks set up, does that mean ill have to get rear adustable arms, as ill probally have it lowered by 30mm, also whats a happy medium for wheel alignment, i do like to go fast round the country roads but needs more confidence ? Can you buy lightweight calipers, im going to go for handling now before power as i feel my car is powerful enough for me atm !, im first saving up for the suspension then ill probally get some lighter breaking mods, drilled discs lioghter callipers etc. should if get my wheels alighned straight after i have my suspension fitted ?
     
  11. stevehart

    stevehart Bring on the Ice!!

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    Hi Guys,

    Thanks Chris and Ess_Three for this thread!!

    I'm about to come into S3 ownership for the second time.
    This time I want to turn it into a driving machine like you all seem to have.

    The car has already been re-mapped but the suspension remains untouched.

    My question comes in essentially two parts: this all sound like quite a lot of work to do and I would imagine likely have to be done in stages.

    Thus, in what order would you recommend getting the modifications done? (perhaps a few jobs at a time)

    And realistically how much am I likely to need to save in order do make the changes?

    One last thing; the car has 17"s which I want to upgrade to 18"s. Would this affect the setup and thus need doing first?

    Thanks for any help and advice

    Regards

    Steve
     
  12. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    In my mind, there are three distinct stages.

    1. Springs, Dampers, Adjustable Tie Bars and an alignment.
    This lot should be done together....but isn't cheap.

    Don't skimp on the adjustable tie bars...it's selling the rest of your suspension short and will cost you money in tyre wear in the long run.

    2. ARBs if you feel you need them...some won't. So don't bother.
    If you do, add them...the only additional cost being you have to pay again for an alignment as you'll screw up the first one fitting the ARBs.

    3. wheels - 18" if it were me.
    Do them anytime you like...the handling settings don't change...you just get a slightly tighter feel on the 18s.


    1. Approx £1500 all fitted and set up.
    2. Approx £500 all fitted and set up.
    3. Approx £1000-£1200 - depending on wheels/tyres


    Nope. Do it anytime.
     
  13. Ess_Three

    Ess_Three Active Member

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    Yes, if you want it to handle properly and not wreck the inside edges of the rear tyres.


    -1.5 degrees negative camber at the front...with parallel toe or ever so slight toe out (say 1 to 2 mins)
    -1.0 degrees negative camber at the rear...with parallel toe.


    Front or back?
    Rears are already alloy...
    Fronts can be swapped to lighter alloy callipers...but generally the bigger discs associtated with the kit weigh more...so status quo (ish).

    With decent suspension you'll not notice the difference though (standard brakes to uprated)


    Save your money and forget drilled discs. They'll crack in time. Get grooved...or even plain with decent pads.


    Yes...pretty much.
    Give it a day or two to let the springs settle in...then get it done.
     
  14. stevehart

    stevehart Bring on the Ice!!

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    Cheers Ess_Three,

    that was very helpful

    Steve
     
  15. Mattjbradbury

    Mattjbradbury Member

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    Great write up thanks. I couldn't see anything about costs - what are potential suspension upgrades pricewise?
     
  16. Matt82

    Matt82 Active Member

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    wow. loving the generalisations and Parada Spec2 recommendation haha
     
  17. Schlaag

    Schlaag Bwah

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    Hey guys, so what is the latest general consensus on new shocks to go with Eibach Pro springs?

    OEM or std replacements from say ECP or GSF?
     
  18. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
    Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    Bilstien B8 dampers all day long :)

    <tuffty/>
     
  19. Schlaag

    Schlaag Bwah

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    Hey up Tuffy... Sounds good to me. I dont want a harsh ride but the new s3 is waaay too high.
    Also no point replacing just the springs on to 107,000 mile old shocks!
     
  20. Dennis Moeller

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    Agree 100%, the B8's are simply perfect for the S3.

    Would consider getting H&R 25mm to go with B8's.. That plus the beefier rear sway bar and the adjustable tie bars + adjustment of the camber really worked magic on my old S3.. God I still miss it :sob:
     
  21. S3 Tim

    S3 Tim BAM!

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    Hi, I thought I would ask a question on this thread rather than starting a new one.

    I need to have my alignment done as the tyres are wearing faster on the inside (front wheels)

    I drive quite quickly and corner aggressively, would standard manufacturer settings be ok or should I try one of the settings people have suggested on here?

    I rang ATS which is the nearest laser alignment to me and they said they wouldn't do it to my specifications, only to manufacturer, I haven't asked the other place I've had it done before but they charge £85 and ATS is only £45.

    They also say it doesn't matter if I have the alignment done before or after I change the tyres, but my friend says otherwise, which is the case?

    Any suggestions? Suspension and wheels are standard.

    Thanks!
     
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  23. sportstractor

    sportstractor Chugger

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    Tyres don't make any difference! If on standard suspension I'd go for oem geometry settings personally, they have been made to give you the best all round setting, you may find that changing for a better cornering setup could make it more twitchy on the motorway. It will feel so good when correctly set, so surprising
     
  24. S3 Tim

    S3 Tim BAM!

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    OK thanks! Will stick with the standard settings then. Will probably do the suspension and brakes at some points and then will have more questions!
     
  25. BuuBBa

    BuuBBa Member

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    How the front camber adjustment should be done, i.e. which part should be moved? Ball joints I guess?
    Just dropped the car to garage and now they called and said that they couldn't get front camber done..

    EDIT: I aksed them to adjust the front camber -1.2deg and now its -1.04 and -0.50. Is that much difference acceptable?
     
    #63 BuuBBa, Feb 21, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
  26. Jenno007

    Jenno007 Well-Known Member

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    I know literally nothing about suspension, so I figure this is the perfect place to ask (given it's the thread in the stickies)

    My car has done 100,000 miles, and the suspension is completely standard. I would like to upgrade it.

    I like the idea of coilovers as they are height adjustable. What other components should I look at upgrading to compliment a set of coilovers? ARB? Suspension bushes (if so what ones)? Anything else?

    Really appreciate any help! Thanks
     
  27. Dave TK

    Dave TK New Member

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    HI Every Pro Audi members

    I had 19" off set 42 all round ( stock should be 45? ), I lower my car with coilovers and front tyres rubbing when I corner hard in downhill or sometime normal road
    Height of the Front ( Tyre just below the guide )
    my spring rate now is 8Kg Front and 5 Kg rear

    Questions :

    1) Is the Spring rate hard enough? because it do feel a lots of body roll... , to solve the rubbing problem should I get harder spring rate? and whats the best spring rate you recommend ?


    2) should I buy a Adjustable suspension top Mount to adjust the Front Camber more to solve the tyre rubbing when corner ?

    3) Or do both as above ?

    Sorry if I didn't describe it very clearly , if photo is needed I will post up the Front wheel photo , looking forward to your help

    Best Regards
    Dave
     
  28. GuitarGuy

    GuitarGuy New Member

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    Im a little confused about this line:

    " And the best of those seems to be the billy and H&R combo"

    which specific shock and spring sets are you referring to mate?

    Great write up by the way, fantastic information here :)
     
  29. dp_motley

    dp_motley 2012 A3 1.6 TDI

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    Thanks guys for all the value in this tread. A read it all and many other treads on the subject of alignment, but I'm still on the fence about what specs I have to choose/request for my car.

    I ride A3 1.6 TDI Sportback, base edition (Attraction in DK). In May, I lowered it with the VWR Sport Springs and then, after three weeks, I replaced the OE dampers with the Bilstein B8. I aligned the car two weeks after the B8s were fitted. During alignment, I was asked what specs would I prefer. As my car was a base edition, not sport, I should choose specs for vehicles with standard suspension. But as my car was lowered by 22mm (front), I thought it became more "sport" and chose specs for the sport suspension. Was I right? I think so because I didn't have any issues after the alignment except one: the steering wheel is positioned a little to the left when I drive straight.

    After time, my wife and I decided that the car was too firm, especially on dips. I knew it was because of too firm B8s and replaced them with B4s. I need a new alignment and confused what specs should I choose this time. My car is 29mm lower now then stock (front - 345mm from the hub center to the fender, rear is a little lower). Should I choose Sport or S-line specs? To what A3/S3 suspension hight is my A3 closer now? How are they different? Only different camber?

    I'm a daily driver and do not track, even don't corner too sharp. I need a save ride and confidence, without wobbling on a straight road.
     
  30. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Active Member
    Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    You might get more help in the 8p section regarding best setup for your model
     
  31. dp_motley

    dp_motley 2012 A3 1.6 TDI

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    May be yes, may be no. This tread seems to be the main one for suspension setups and same rules apply to both S3 and A3.

    Oh, I just saw it: it's 8L tread. You were right.
     
  32. sparkysi90

    sparkysi90 New Member

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  33. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    Too large on the front IMO
     
  34. scotty_24

    scotty_24 Active Member

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    I've got the eibach anti roll bars. Was the first mod back in the day 6 and a half years ago when I first got the car.
    The anti roll bar collars were snapped and the car needed new bars, and I have a mate who has an account with Eibach so got them cheap through him. First ever mod.
    Didnt really at the time understand the implications of what different sized bars would have at the time, was just shiney new red parts.

    Had the car six and a half years as I say and I dont know any different to what I have.
    My cars a track and weekend toy now and the car corners absolutley fine for the ability I have. It feels extremley flat through the corners and combined with the Nankand NS2R tyres I have full confidence that ill run out of talent before the car lets go.
    I run Eibach springs (again cheap through mates account ) and Koni shocks.
    When looking at pics of my car on track days the body does look like it rolls more than I would like, I put this down to the ridiculous ride height my car has, soo much stripped out the car now looks like its on stilts which I believe is what makes it look like its rolling more than it actually feels like to drive.

    Saving for Coilovers LOL
     
  35. AdzA3AGU

    AdzA3AGU Member

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    So Bilstein B8 Sprint Dampers and H&R 20mm Springs will work well?
     
  36. Kevin@bndynamix

    Kevin@bndynamix New Member

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    Hi just purchased set of kw v3 for my s3 anyone use and how set up rebound and how much clicks set to for normal road use..???
     
  37. snowy

    snowy Active Member

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    Leave in the middle (eg factory position) and try them out
    ~go find a cobbled street and some speed bumps

    Don't rush to adjust, give them a few weeks to settle in

    Each click does have a noticeable effect
     

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