Aug 23, 2010
bump - anyone? Or would TPS know if i went in and gave them my chasis number?
I'm not sure mate but if I dont know a part number I always call Audi and get it from them
TPS should be able to tell you from your car reg/vin.
Well I did my sump and pick up clean yesterday thought it was an easy job hardest part was cleaning the sump bleeder .
The pipe up pipe was very blocked could not see no like through it at all it had bits of dip stick in there as well talk about pokeing hole **** what a job ha
All back to getter and I just feel sorry for my oil pump working it's **** off and god aren't them rods small was hoping to have a shock and see the uprated one but there were standered lol never mind tuck me about 4 hour
Hi - I just did mine today, I had many setbacks though.
The oil filter was a nightmare, took me an hour to get it off. I puncture the filter in several places in the process. In then end I wrapped the chain around the top near the seal and it finally gave way.
Gave the pan a good clean and everything looks good now its all back in place. One outstanding issue I have is one of those small bolts, there are 20 holding the pan in place - 3 of them are tricky buggers, one of those three will not screw back in all the way, it is about half way in and any further attempts is starting to round off the allen key slot... So I am going to chance it until I can get a new bolt.
I started at 10am and finished at 12:30am the next day. I had jack issues as well...
Also, I still need to add the oil and test it for leaks. Fingers crossed.
When torque settings are advised, do you have to add a 1/4 of a turn afterwards everytime, or do you just go to the torque setting?
Yeah there are 3 annoying bolts, 2 that are offset which are near to the flywheel and it is difficult to get a straight socket into the space to tighten them up. If you have one bolt that has only gone in half way then chances are that you are trying to tighten it up at an angle and it isn't going in straight. I would back it out otherwise you could damage the threads inside or break the bolt which is the last thing you want. Chances are that the oil will leak from this place if it doesn't have any clamping force from this bolt. You can get socket adapters which are flexible which should help you do these awkward bolts up easier. I would personally take it out and put a new bolt in though to be on the safe side.
As for the mentioned torque settings, go by what they suggest, no need to add another 90 degree turn unless it is suggested e.g. head bolts as you will find that this adds a fair bit of additional torque to the bolt.
Yea I will go see the Audi parts department for some new bolts, its been raining a lot lately so havnt checked for leaks properly, there were a few splashes of oil but it didnt look like it was from the pan, it looked like it was from when I was screwing on the oil filter so i remain hopefull.
Anyone know what torque to tighten the pickup pipe bolts to?
I did this at the weekend. This thread helped. I was lucky in that a friend is an Audi Service Manager so he managed to lend me the long ball allen key to use with the ratchet. If you can get hold of something similar it makes getting all the 20 smaller bolts a breeze. It was a 1/2 Drive with probably a 6" bar with the Allen key on the end.
I was replacing the sump as the monkeys in Kwikfit had stripped the threads on the sump plug and it now leaks as it will not tighten. However on removing the sump they had tried to helicoil it and also put some plumbers sealing tape on the threads!!!!
Upon removing the oil pick up pipe there were large pieces of the helicoil thread that had come off and luckily were collected by this filter! Along with some small bits of plastic from the dipstick.
I also had the use of a ramp which made the job very very easy.
You should go down to quick sh!t and give them an ear bashing
Great thread guys! im going to do this as soon as the weather clears on my AMK
Would getting this tool help for the hard to reach bolts? 5mm allen key bolts I assume?
FRANKLIN 5mm HEX BALL END BIT SOCKET 100mm LONG 3/8" | eBay
Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay
Or maybe this one as it's a bit longer? It says 5mm so i'm not sure if the picture is 'for illustration purposes only'?
good spot James, ill grab that! thank you!
Can anyone else confirm that this is the right tool for the job before any £ are spent??!
i got the one that james333 posted Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay
it seems to fit well and should make it a bit easier to get into the hidden nuts
It was spot on for me! easy as peas removing and refitting those pesky sump bolts
its also great to use for the infamous thermostat bolts too!!
What did you use the get the 2 hidden bolts off? allen key or flexi socket thingd because i cant get to mine at all? been trying for 2 hours?
1/4" 10mm socket and long wobble extension...
As above, I used a 10mm 1/4 drive socket and wobble extension to do the whole job!
FINALLY got round to doing this today! Only 2 years after I'd originally planned to do it...!
Hi, Spent this afternoon draining oil & filter & removing sump.
Purchased the oil pick up pipe & silicone from TPS as better deal than Audi.
Had some difficulty with some bolts. I found the awkward big gearbox bolt on mine (BAM engine) to have a more problematic pipe next to it. Instead of a large but flexible pipe (from original thread) that can be bent out of the way I have a thinner but hard (metal) pipework that has several bends & branches off towards both corners of bumper, intercoolers??? Anyway this made it hard to get a socket on the bolt so attempted to remove the bracket (attached to gearbox) but it snapped in two from the gearbox. As the pipe is of a stiff nature hopefully it will be ok without this support.
The wobbly extension I have was not strong enough to undo small bolts & just twisted out of shape, luckily found a solid extension with a jointed head on it.
Now one of the small bolts (not the tricky ones) was hard all the way out so will be concerned when putting back in. I tried other bolts in same hole & it seems the thread on this bolt is not good as is the thread inside the hole. If I put new bolt in the bad hole could be worse than reusing the bad bolt as its probably made a new thread with this hole, what you think?
I intend to use the same bolts & I also have no torque wrench which (especially for the small ones) I don't feel for this job is really necessary. Head bolts & suspension areas of course but does every bolt need a torque setting?? The feel when tightening most bolts is enough, I've never considered a torque wrench for something like an oil sump plug (you can feel the bite onto the washer) on any car I've ever had & never had a leak or a problem with breaking a bolt.
Anyway be glad when its back on with no leaks PLEASE LOL
I know the bracket you are referring to. Mine's also missing (happened before I owned the car) and so the metal pipe you are talking about is zip-tied to a bracket above it. As you say, it's a solid pipe anyway, so I think the zip-tie just provides that extra little bit of support. Not proud to be driving around with a zip-tie on the car, but it's doing its job well enough so I've left it well alone. I found that the pipe can be moved forwards just enough to get a 16mm hex socket onto the bolt.
yeah the bracket on mine kinda fell off/disintagrated when i went to undo the bolt holding the pipe to it, ive kept an eye on it and it doesnt seem to be rubbing or bashing off anythign without the bracket there so it should be ok
Cheers for this. Came in handy today when I done mine Tried to avoid using too much sealant.
What does everyone do about the turbo oil drain gasket? Just re-use the old one?
Finished mine with no leaks (as yet) but was a fiddle with those two awkward to get at bolts. I used plenty of sealant nearer the outside so I could see it spread out as it went up (I'd much prefer a bloody gasket). For the turbo oil drain used the sealant as well (didn't see a gasket unless squashed flat into sump) & seems ok. Run up to temp off & on the ramps, went round the block a few times & no leaks from anywhere.
Sorry to bump and old thread, but I have just been to Audi RE. the 20 x 10mm bolts that hold the sump to the block, they're 46p each! :O Also, would you recommend using the sealant to seal the oil return to the sump?
yeah 46p isnt much but when you times it by 20 it starts to add up.
I'm pretty sure i didn't put any on the oil return but tbh i can't really remember. but i can tell you it doesn't leak.
I ended up putting a little around return. I can't handle removing the sump for a 3rd time due to leaks. Hopefully this time I've got it nailed up..
I guess I'll find out in the morning.
I'm just about to buy all the bits to do mine BUT I've seen it mentioned on TTF that you should replace the oil pump as a precautionary measure, while the sump is off?
Is it worth it?
I replaced my oil pump for piece of mind really, and considering the pickup had been blocked i figured the oil pump wouldn't have been as happy as it should've been. i think it cost about £90 from Audi.
there's an oil pump guide in my signature
Hi , going to be spending a day at a mates unit to use his 2 poster lift for a few jobs I have planned and quite fancy doing this for piece of mind , is it the same process for a 1.8t agu does anyone know ? Going to buy strainer pipe and seal , rtv and bolt set from audi and wondering if there is anything different needed for the agu over the great s3 write up on page 1
Thanks for this thread! I got to drop the sump next weekend as the sump plug is threaded. very handy.
Lets see if I still F it up haha
Basil, i think its the same on the agu or at least very similar but I'm not 100% sure. the actual sump is the same part number as my amk S3.
ramps sound more fun than lying underneath the car, its getting harder and harder in my old age
2 poster is defiantly a luxury I feel privileged to have use of but even better is the diesel heater Going to be doing the cambelt , water pump , thermostat , temp sensor and now the oil pump pick up along with fully 5w 30 and filter .
Then it's AMD time
sounds like you're going to have a fun time, mine is due an oil change and fixing the wee oil leak thats coming from where the oil cooler joins the bracket. i could be mistaken but i'm pretty sure its best to use 5W40 fully synthetic rather than 5W30 or long life oil in our cars now they've done a good few miles
Ooooo a bit of research needed then ? I thought it was 5w 30 fully synthetic or risk damage !
Ive just put my reg into castrols web site and that states 5w 30 !
Anyone got the definitive answer ?
Just to confirm, the process on the AGU is identical.
The sump is slightly different as the oil level sensor hole is blanked off, as the AGU does not have an oil level sensor.
That's the only difference.
You won't get one as it's personal preference.
Yes, the book says 5w30. I always use 5w40 in the 1.8T due to the fact that it's a slightly thicker oil once up to temperature. Better oil for higher mileage engines IMO.
But that's the point. It's all based on people's opinions.
Cheers welly , good to know AGU is as easy and for the advice on oil choice
Hi, I've gone to do this job today, drained the oil removed the filter, removed the three bigger bolts, removed around half of the smaller bolts, then came to one that was very tight to undo, kept working the bolt backwards and forwards then the bolt went solid and the head has rounded off, the bolt is probably 5mm off the sump but now I can't tighten it or slacken it, has anybody encountered this or can anyone think of a way of removing it thanks
Separate names with a comma.